Quick question for ya.
Was out the weekend with the wife as pillion so set the rear shock to 7. This took a while and is tricky enough.
I was thinking of leaving at 7 rather than adjusting every few weeks.
Does any else have it set at 7 all the time, even when riding solo?
yeah i have mine set at 7 all the time - with the standard front forks it stops the bike diving like mad when your braking and handles waaaaaayyyyyy better around corners.... :thumb:
I keep mine at 7.
I would, but I can't turn the damn thing. Mine's stuck on 4, assuming I'm reading it right. I'm not quite sure what the numbers are supposed to line up with to read them.
really...what's the best method of adjusting it?
I set it to katana like one of our smarter members pointed out a couple years back ...
he should know too ... having ridden a home rebuilt GS coast to coast X 2 in the span of 2 weeks ...
Cool.
Srinath.
YOU CAN ADJUST THE STOCK REAR SHOCK???
Quote from: KYGS500E on May 24, 2006, 08:59:59 AM
YOU CAN ADJUST THE STOCK REAR SHOCK???
yup. didn't you read your owners manual? :shock:
Quote from: lachie on May 24, 2006, 02:59:40 AM
yeah i have mine set at 7 all the time - with the standard front forks it stops the bike diving like mad when your braking and handles waaaaaayyyyyy better around corners.... :thumb:
No offense, but that makes absolutely no sense. Just because your shock is set to preload 7 doesn't mean the forks are going to dive any less under braking. Changing that won't have any affect on the damping rates of the forks, which means they will dive just as much wether it's at preload 1 or preload 7. It can improve handling by reducing sag though.
Quote from: KYGS500E on May 24, 2006, 08:59:59 AM
YOU CAN ADJUST THE STOCK REAR SHOCK???
Jah. C-spanner in your toolkit. Grab the bottom ring of the shock with it and pull.
f3
I have mine set at 7. It's PERFECT for 2-up...
But when riding Solo it tends to "hop" down the road... :icon_confused: I was planning on getting a Kat shock, but I think I might just crank it down a little.
3d
Yeah... I'm only 175 without gear... But, add in the wife and we weight 285 + gear! :icon_mrgreen:
I've read the manual and there's even a special tool in the toolkit, but darned if I've ever been able to get that thing to turn. I'm stuck at 4 :mad:
try putting it on the center stand :icon_mrgreen:
Use the extension bar included in the toolkit. I couldn't get it to turn either until I used the extension bar, and then it was cake. Now I need to take it out and see what the difference is.
Mine goes to "11"
Yeah listen to JasonD. I couldn't get it either with just the tool alone, added the monkey bar (hollow bar with bent end) and it was 110% easier. Now to go check to see if mine is at 7...
so which side is it easier to get the wrench in from?
Quote from: melloGS on May 24, 2006, 10:12:03 PM
so which side is it easier to get the wrench in from?
Left, IMO.
Quote from: AlphaFire X5 on May 24, 2006, 09:02:35 AM
Quote from: lachie on May 24, 2006, 02:59:40 AM
yeah i have mine set at 7 all the time - with the standard front forks it stops the bike diving like mad when your braking and handles waaaaaayyyyyy better around corners.... :thumb:
No offense, but that makes absolutely no sense. Just because your shock is set to preload 7 doesn't mean the forks are going to dive any less under braking. Changing that won't have any affect on the damping rates of the forks, which means they will dive just as much wether it's at preload 1 or preload 7. It can improve handling by reducing sag though.
i found that by adjusting the rear shock (which is basically just under your butt), the bike doesn't tend to be so soft in the front end. when you're braking /cornering the weight doesn't shift forward as easily due to the extra preload in the shock (or at least that's what i was told)...
if you try riding the bike with the rear adjusted to 4 for a while - then change back to 7 - you do notice a change in the front end (even though you're not actually adjusting anything).. i reckon the bike also feels better in corners and you can take them a little quicker without having the front end wallowing all over the joint... i'm 95kg's dunno what that is in pounds.. but was told if you're over 75 - 80kgs, you should adjust up on the rear to suit your weight...
7 works for me...
Quote from: melloGS on May 24, 2006, 10:12:03 PM
so which side is it easier to get the wrench in from?
lol NEITHER!
I had a hell of a time with it... But, once it was hooked up, turning it with the ext wasn't that bad...
I've actually been thinking about lowering mine...
Thanks for all the replies, bike feels fine to me so will leave it at 7.
It is a bit tricky to adjust alright. :cheers:
I can't get mine to move because my bike didn't come with a toolkit. No special wrench for me.
Quote from: lachie on May 24, 2006, 11:54:13 PM
Quote from: AlphaFire X5 on May 24, 2006, 09:02:35 AM
Quote from: lachie on May 24, 2006, 02:59:40 AM
yeah i have mine set at 7 all the time - with the standard front forks it stops the bike diving like mad when your braking and handles waaaaaayyyyyy better around corners.... :thumb:
No offense, but that makes absolutely no sense. Just because your shock is set to preload 7 doesn't mean the forks are going to dive any less under braking. Changing that won't have any affect on the damping rates of the forks, which means they will dive just as much wether it's at preload 1 or preload 7. It can improve handling by reducing sag though.
i found that by adjusting the rear shock (which is basically just under your butt), the bike doesn't tend to be so soft in the front end. when you're braking /cornering the weight doesn't shift forward as easily due to the extra preload in the shock (or at least that's what i was told)...
if you try riding the bike with the rear adjusted to 4 for a while - then change back to 7 - you do notice a change in the front end (even though you're not actually adjusting anything).. i reckon the bike also feels better in corners and you can take them a little quicker without having the front end wallowing all over the joint... i'm 95kg's dunno what that is in pounds.. but was told if you're over 75 - 80kgs, you should adjust up on the rear to suit your weight...
7 works for me...
Adjusting the rear shock preload ransfers more weight forward, rotating the bike around its center. It still doesn't change the damping rates. It helps by increasing the rake on the bike, thus allowing it to turn in better, and in a corner you don't have the REAR bouncing all over the place, which is what causes the front to go off on you. The "pogo" of the shock from it trying to absorb the bumps but not being able to causes an oscilation in the rake/trail numbers thus causing instability. I'm right around 60 kgs, have it set to spot number 6.
use a big flat head screwdriver from the left side of the bike wedged twards the rear so as you push on it it will lever the collar around. ping for pics if unclear.
i tried getting it from the left, but it wasnt having it
i kept going back and forth left to right until i finally got it to move on the right... :dunno_white:
My bike was in for an oil change today and I got my guy to adjust the shock for me whil ehe was at it... 7 it is, boys and girls! I like it thus far. It was wet on the way home so I didn't get to test it, but thus far, it feels great, even if I do feel like I'm sititing on the road! I'll fill you in later on the "feel" :)
Quote from: badkarma506 on May 25, 2006, 12:08:35 PM
use a big flat head screwdriver from the left side of the bike wedged twards the rear so as you push on it it will lever the collar around. ping for pics if unclear.
I took the liberty of taking a pic. This is, however, for increasing preload; you will lever/push it forward (to the left). (Note that it is
under the chain) (Yes, I know my bike is still dirty...)
(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/7411/bike00216kt.jpg)
To decrease preload, insert the screwdriver in much the same manner on the right side of the bike.