Sooooo... to catch you up, last winter, like a dumb a$$ i did nothing to winterize the bike, hoped it would be fine, well it started and ran alright for a little at the begining of the year, i rode it several times. One time it idled badly and started smoking really bad, i stuck in away in the garage and started riding my sv650 that i bought. Im trying to get the gs going again, but it was idling like crap and whenever i touched the throttle it would cut out and die. So i determined i needed to clean the carbs, i did that, and like magic she ran again. but now the air box is filling up with gas and exhaust too? what do i do, whats wrong with her? im relaly good at following directions but have limited experience with carbs. Im pretty confident i put everything back together correctly.
so what does it sound like to you all?
- Jordan
Float level set too high
Loose jets
Debris causing floats to stick open; this is (sometimes) easily fixed by turning to prime and flushing the float bowl by opening the drain screw; try this first as it is the easiest.
Scratch, it seemed the float needles were free of debris, and the float seemed to move fine when i had them apart and when i put them back together? or wouldn't that matter?
You may have some new debris in there. Try the flush.
Carbs are seated properly?
Are you starting it with choke on?
What type pilots? Are they bleeder-types with the holes in the barrel?
I tried the flush.. it seems to run fine for a bit sometimes, but bogs down with throttle added, or other times it doesnt' run fine and starts bogging with throttle right after it is started. Im pretty sure they are seated properly? i usually do start with the choke on. They are the "bleeder type" with the holes in the barrel (i think you mean the two little holes in the bottom side of the barrels). The airbox doesn't seem to have gas spilling in it or exhaust when i watch it through the openning where the filter goes. So maybe the fuel in the airbox problem is solved. but why the bog down when throttle is added. feels like im back to square one.
- Jordan
It's because you have the bleeder type pilot jets; they are too rich, causing the engine to bog.
Have you checked the float level using Kerry's clear tube method?
The clear tube test is def. on the agenda for tomorrow. Say the float levels are off, whats the fix?
- Jordan
Make sure the bike is upright (centerstand) when you do the test. Run the test multiple times on each side. If the levels are significantly off, you'll need to:
* Turn the fuel tank-mounted petcock to OFF (slot horizontal)
* Drain the carbs, using the same drain spout as for the "clear tube test"
* Pull the carbs out of the bike, and turn them upside down
* One carb at a time:
- Remove the float bowl
- "Tweak" the metal tang that the silver-colored part below hangs from
(http://www.bbburma.net/MiscFotos/PartsNMore_CarbRebuildKit.jpg)
- Follow the instructions in Step 7 on this page from the Haynes manual (http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_FloatHeight_FullPage.jpg),
with help from diagram 9.7, until the measurement is 14.6mm +/- 1.0mm
* Put the carbs back on the bike, turn the tank petcock to ON (vertical)
* Test again with the "clear tube" method
* Repeat if necessary :mad:
I left out some steps like "disconnect fuel hoses" and "(re)move air box". This list just includes the main steps related to getting the float height right.