so i got my 97 gs500e yesterday (thanks for the warm welcomes) and it needs a bit of work. it idles really low and then dies out. the guy i bought if from told me this and mentioned to keep the rpms at 5000 to keep it from dying. however, i'm very new to motorcyles and this seems really high. i can't imagine sitting at a light just revving and waiting to peel out! he said that it may need the carbs cleaned, and according to the searches i've done here (yes, i searched before i posted... ;)it seems like that may be the case.
HOWEVER - he also told me that he lost the pilot screw when he was trying to adjust the idle.
my question is --- if i get the pilot screw (which i'd have to order), would this pretty much fix my idling problems?? or do you think i'd still need to clean the carbs and rejet (found that idea on a search too!)?
i've got the clymers and i'm attempting to muster up the courage (and tools) to take on the carb cleaning, but if the pilot screw is my main problem then i could sleep a bit easier.
thanks in advance for your help...
grasshopper
It'd definitely help!!
However... if he was trying to adjust the idle, how did he lose the pilot screw? Maybe he lost the air/fuel screw? Pictures!
Cleaning the carbs is easy, just takes a bit of paience to remove all the plastic and rubber bits.
the idle screw would deffenately help.
and ill second the cleaning the carbs part, just be patient and make sure you put it back togeather the way you took it apart.
2 votes for the screw (you know what i mean...)
2 votes for cleaning carbs (gulp)
should i just wait until the screw comes in (again, i have to order it) before i mess with the carbs just to see how it runs, or do you think i should just get in there and clean em while i'm waiting?
Might as well pull the carb now and clean them. It's really super easy. I had absolutely no experience with wrenching until I bought my bike, and had no problems with the carbs. No need to put the carbs back until you've got all the pieces together, and might as well take them out now.
also chech all the clamps between the carbs and the motor , check bolts on exh manoifold , i had a problem with mine trying to get it to idle now its fine ..... air leak
my 2cents
The manuals will state the idle should be 1200 but better off keeping it at 1500.
cool...thanks for the tips. i'm charging my battery now (seems i tried to start it too many times), and i'm gonna put aside all day sunday to wrench on those carbs. any suggestions on the tools i'll need? the clymer's manual lists all sorts of stuff, but i was hoping to keep it basic (screwdrivers, wrenches, and maybe a set of pliers). i'll search around...
Quote from: grasshopper4040 on July 27, 2006, 11:00:37 PM
cool...thanks for the tips. i'm charging my battery now (seems i tried to start it too many times), and i'm gonna put aside all day sunday to wrench on those carbs. any suggestions on the tools i'll need? the clymer's manual lists all sorts of stuff, but i was hoping to keep it basic (screwdrivers, wrenches, and maybe a set of pliers). i'll search around...
Phillips head screw driver
12mm wrench (sockets work nicely)
10mm wrench (sockets work nicely)
Jewler's screw drivers (helpful, but not entirely necessary)
Flat head screwdriver (be sure to have one with a thin tip. That's why the above is helpful to have)
Pliers
Don't forget to have:
Carb cleaner
clean, well lighted workspace
tubs to hold carb parts and o-rings in so you don't lose them (important!!!)
If you spray the carbs with carb cleaner, remeber to take out all plastic and rubber pieces. Carb cleaner deteriorates them.
Quote from: grasshopper4040 on July 27, 2006, 11:00:37 PMi'm charging my battery now (seems i tried to start it too many times)
I know this may seem redundant, and you may already do this, but, when trying to crank a bike that won't start, don't crank for more than 2-3 seconds at a time to avoid excessive wear and tear on the starter motor. They heat up real fast and can burn out quickly if you stay on it for too long at a time.
alphafire...thanks for the list. i'm putting the tool kit together tonight! look out carb gunk!!
phire...thanks for the tip. i'm such a newbie i didn't even realize that could happen. you saved me.
this forum rocks.
Quote from: grasshopper4040 on July 27, 2006, 11:59:09 PM
alphafire...thanks for the list. i'm putting the tool kit together tonight! look out carb gunk!!
phire...thanks for the tip. i'm such a newbie i didn't even realize that could happen. you saved me.
this forum rocks.
To be honest, all you need to most of the work on the GS is:
set of wrenches
set of socket wrenches (sometimes you need to hold a bolt to loosen a nut, which is where the other wrenches come in handy)
pliers (needle nost and standard)
screwdrivers
allen head (or "hex head") wrenches
1/2" drive socket wrench (on earlier models for the fork caps, later models use a 19mm wrench)
feeler gauges (for the valves)
Torque wrench (very handy!)
And that's about it. You can do pretty much everything you need with just that. That's a fairly small tool box in my opinion, but all that's really necessary.
Oh, and a hammer comes in handy if you get frustrated.