Ok, I figured I could get the bike, put gas in it, change the oil and live my college student life. However, the bike just won't see things my way. :x Well, I thought the gas was just bad, causing the strange stumbling and whatnot. But it's still at it and getting worse. Here's what's wrong and I'm trying to figure out what exactly I should be looking at here. I get my manual in about 2 days.
- Stalls when moving out of first gear unless I roll on the throttle like it's a gisxr. Even then, the throttle is slow to respond.
-When coming to a stop the idle sometimes stays pretty high, anywhere from 2800 to 3500 rpm. I have to play with the clutch to bring it down.
-If I do get it going out of first gear, it's real rough and jerky about the acceleration.
-Sometimes during warm up it just dies out on me, and then struggles to start again.
I'd figure it's gas starved, but the gas is going through the lines fine if that's the only place I would have trouble with this. (Trust me, I showered in it yesterday). :? I even thought the fuel lines may be on backwards coming from the tank to the petcock, but I won't know until I can see some pics from the manual. I'm sure it's something relatively easy (at least that's what I'm crossing my fingers for).
I'm willing to rip this son of a gun apart, as long as I know what the hell I'm ripping and how I'm Frankenstiening it back together. I'm going to wait for the manual before I really get into it, but a few pointers on where to look or start would be great. I'm pretty familiar with the idle screw, but what does the screw on the throttle piece do? (the piece that moves when you roll the throttle located between the carbs under the gas tank). I think I covered all the troubles but can go into detail if I haven't done so. Thanks fellas.
Sounds like your bike is stock. Is your bike stock? Can you tell if the brass plugs over the pilot screws have been removed? They're circular flat brass plugs, with a single little hole in the center of 'em, on the underside of the carb boddies.
Pull your carbs off and locate the brass plugs on the underside of the carb boddies. Drill enough to get a screw extractor or e-z-out in there and remove those plugs. Screw out 1 1/2 turns & that should get you close to 2 1/2 - 3 turns out on the pilot screw underneath those plugs.
Order a pair of size 40 non-bleeder type pilot jets, unless you already have 'em installed, and remove the float bowls to change the pilot jets.
Do a search on carburetors and float bowl on this site for more info, too.
I hope this helps.
(http://home.kc.rr.com/bsmith1952/img/Bike/fuelsystem.jpg)
Ok, here's what I've tried so far.
-New spark plugs. Old ones were blacker than Kingsford. The left one had a bunch of gray on the tip like it'd been burned to hell.
-Splashed some STP Carb Cleaner in the gas and bought a bottle of the spray stuff. How do I go about using the spray stuff? While the engine's running or not?
It seems that the stall problem has been resolved after tweaking w/ the idle screw, but we're still running pretty rough and the idle will still run high when coming to a stop. I'm wondering if I still have junk in the carbs if that's what it could be. I'm going to try draining the float bowls tomorrow then prime the gas and see what that does. If all else fails, I'll rip off the air filter and spray the hell outta the carbs with the spray stuff. Wish me luck, or success. Need some more ideas on what to examine! I'll take anything.
Oh yeah, one more thing...There's a screw I've been jacking w/ which I have no freaking clue what it is. It's right on top of the thing that moves inbetween the carbs when you roll the throttle. It's facing up inbetween the carbs and it's done stuff w/ my idle. What is it??
The spray stuff is generally used to clean individual parts after disassembling the carbs.
ive used carb&choke cleaner, on mine which helped me to start it for the first time. also wd-40 in the cyls. (which i do NOT recommend). but it might be worth cleaning the carbs. if that doesn't solve anything, at least you know you've done it. cant tell you what that screw is without looking at it. but sounds either like an idle speed screw or synch. screw.
anyhoo, good luck :thumb: :cheers:
OK.... that nut( i think you meant nut, not screw) on top of the throttle is hooked to the throttle cable and controls the amount of play etc.. in the cable.. Its your throttle adjustment. It shouldnt mess with idle.. or its too tight.. if you turn the front wheel and idle goes up.. its too tight.. loosen the nut below that one, and then tighten accordingly.
If thats NOT what you were talking about.. hmmm.... im tryin to remember...
....
It might be your balance screw? your mixture screws are on the bottom of the carbs... i dont know man...give more details.
Quote from: Oreobob
Oh yeah, one more thing...There's a screw I've been jacking w/ which I have no freaking clue what it is. It's right on top of the thing that moves inbetween the carbs when you roll the throttle. It's facing up inbetween the carbs and it's done stuff w/ my idle. What is it??
That's your synchronizing screw to synchronize your two carburetors, STOP MESSING WITH IT. No, reeally, you may need to take your carbs off and visually, static sync your carbs by looking down the throats of them at the butterfly valves and play with that screw till the butterflies both look like they're in the same throttle position. Your bike will run like crap if the carbs are out of sync.
I'm an ass...that sync screw (which it was) really jacked the carbs sync off. Time to go to the fine work. Thanks a million! Let ya know the results this weekend. :P
damn ive been here forever. i thinki found my first post, near teh beginning of this thread :o :oops:
Until the last post, I didn't realize how old this thread was. And I was just starting to get interested in the problem! Anyone know how this turned out?