d4
d3
do not remove screw!!!!!
it went thru
take some dish soap and dab on the spot...any bubbles?
wrap tires in a garbage bag and rope them to the bike to take to a shop
ride slow you should be fine
where did you get the tires........most shops wont install online tires
go to a small independant shop...best chance
either way....what ever you saved buying online....you will spend on mounting
better to take the wheel off and deliver wheel and tire to shop
drop off in AM...pick up in PM
2 tires...2 days....ready to roll for next weekend
c43
tire machines that don't scrape rims are hard to find
ya got to buy little $20 plastic rim protectors...like that is gunna happen :cookoo:
mechanics who care are harder to find
d4
basically yeah
center stand and have a friend push down on the grab bar and stack some blocks/ 2 x 4s under the pipe
front ya got to remove the brake caliper also
center stand...no blocks
rear just the axle bolt
push the wheel fwd and slide the chain to the left then work the wheel out
after you remove the wheel put all the spacers back into the axle(back on bike) so you know where they go while fresh in memory
d3
plug it, i have two in my rear tire, and have for 3k miles now
Different people have different ways but I think it easier and safer to remove just 1 wheel at a time on the GS. Unlike some bikes once a wheel is off (front or back) the weight transfers to the opposite end and it becomes surprisingly stable. Obviously if you lean on it, it will go over and I wouldnt advocate leaving it without some support. Neither would I suggest trying to remove a wheel single-handedly. My method after the wheel is off is to replace the axle bolt and put a car type scissor- jack directly underneath it just enough to take the weight and prevent the bike see-sawing through the center stand. Fortunately my tyre shop is minutes away and doing 2 trips in the car with 1 wheel each time is not inconvenient, I do appreciate in your case it might be different. A tip when removing the axlebolts, you might find them stiff or stuck due to a build up rust/corrosion that prevents them from passing through the inner race of the wheel bearings, dont be tempted to smack them out by hitting the ends with a hammer, you will splay the ends and damage the threads, if you have to, use a soft metal drift (copper or brass) or some hard wood. I have a small wedge made from soft wood that I jam between the brake pads as soon as the wheel is off as its not unknown for them to close up due to the weight and head of fluid in the pipe, its happened to me once or twice over the years. Finally.....appologies if I am stating anything obvious to you. :thumb:
just pay 20$ to get tire off, and a new one on.
d3
s2
Wrecent?
You will find that spacer rests hard up against the cush-drive bearing, it sits in a seal that prevents the grease getting out and the sh** getting in to the wheel bearings. If the bearings have rusted or if the grease looks particularly dirty I suggest you replace both the seal and bearings. If you grab the sprocket and pull sharply you will find it freely comes away from the wheel along with the carrier it fixes to. Underneath you will find the rubber cush-drive elements, these can wear and deteriate over time so now is a good time to examine them and replace if they show any signs of damage. Reasseambly is the oposite, the sprocket carrier just pushes back into the wheel after aligning it with the cush-drive rubbers and the spacer just drops back in. Dont be concerned about the fact its presently all loose, when its in place in the swing arm the axle-bolt clamps it all together.
I've pulled 2 wheels for tires many times, easy to do with a centerstand and some wood blocks. Put on centerstand and pull rear wheel first. Loosen front axle bolt nut and front caliper bolts before lifting front. Then lift bike with one hand under top of front rim and slide some blocks under the head pipes with the other. Remove front wheel. When putting wheels back on, put the front on first and lower to floor, leaves more room for putting on the rear.
You can pull the front wheel without removing the caliper if you don't have an oversize tire, but it's easier to put back on with the caliper loose.
j6
k5
pull them (rims and tire) off and then drive to the shop. you need new tires any way and they need to be ballanced.
if there is cycle gear any were near you for 10% of the tire price you can get a free replcemnet if a nail or any thing else happens to it.
bt-45 get about 11k to 15k to them depending how you ride
[j
dang that sucks, whats the local prices around for mounting
[6
say what????!!!! tomarrow wha tthe hell!!!!
20 mins tops per tire
do it yourself: http://media.putfile.com/tyre-change
The only hard part is breaking the bead on the old tires. That guy used a van to do it, I've seen others rig up a bottle jack upside down to do the same thing. Toss 1 oz. of airsoft pellets into each tire and they'll stay perfectly balanced. Piece of cake right? Why pay some knucklehead to screw it up...
-M
k6
Wrecent?
I think you may be looking in the wrong place. $91 dollars is about £48 (so its £24 each wheel) and that would be deemed very expensive here in the UK (my part of it anyway). I deal with a small independent local tyre specialist, he deals mainly with auto stuff but is tooled up for bikes. He keeps his costs down by not holding any stock. You go one day and tell him what you want, pay a small deposit and the tyres arrive the next day, he fits and balances them to loose wheels for free and while you wait. The price I pay is the list price quoted in the cataloge, I know this because he shows me. The cost for fitting must come out of his discount. If you supply the tyre its £8 to fit and balance which is the same price as a car tyre which seems reasonable. He tells me he can keep his prices low as he has minimal overheads. Maybe you could try giving a few smaller tyre depots a call I would be very surprised if someone local doesnt deal in bike tyres and see if they do something similar, maybe even haggle out a deal. I would certainly avoid the main dealers and their inflated prices. Most of them here farm out the actual fitting and balancing and just put a mark-up on the price.