Okay, so I discovered today that my bike has been on PRI for probably the last 3000 miles! The fuel selector (I want to call it the petcock ??) has been on PRI rather than ON !!
What does PRI (prime?) do? What difference would it do while driving?
Could I have damaged anything??
Thanks
James
OH shaZam!!!! DUDE!!! You didnt use PRI did you?! :o ohh man... Thats the Pink Rotisserie Igloo BUTTON!!!! Nooooooooo.......
j/k,
Other than maybe flooding your carbs... it wont hurt anything. PRI is short for Prime (not anything to do with igloos, dont worry).. it basically eliminates the need for vaccum and the fuel will flow freely from the tank at all times. I would put it to on.. and when you run out of gas.. switch to reserve. This way you have some idea whats going on with the gas situation.
:thumb:
The fuel flow when the selector is on "ON or RES" is vacuum actuated. "PRI" just lets the fuel flow freely without the engine running. The only bad thing that could happen is if your floats stick in the carbs, the gas will overflow and spill out. Otherwise, no harm done. :thumb:
I for one HAVE to run on Pri to keep my floats full so it doesn't hesitate.
The vacuum actuated positions just don't flow enough fuel. Even on Prime I'm having some issues when my tank gets low. I want to replace the 3 way with 2 high-flowing on/off valves to see if this will fix the problem for less than a Pengle petcock. They want a fortune for those things.
My bike runs on 'PRI' too.....it's been jetted, and it has a K & N pod filter...it runs fine on 'ON', but it runs better on 'PRI'.....go figure.
this may be a dumb question but i have only been riding for 2 weeks
what are the floats??
Quote from: Black Snowman
The vacuum actuated positions just don't flow enough fuel. Even on Prime I'm having some issues when my tank gets low. I want to replace the 3 way with 2 high-flowing on/off valves to see if this will fix the problem for less than a Pengle petcock. They want a fortune for those things.
Can you elborate a little more regarding this, please. The Pingle petcock is outragiously priced.
Thanks,
Paul
The floats are inside each carborator. They float on top of the fuel in the bowls. When there is enough fuel, they close a little needle valve. If you look under your frame up at the carbs, that's what you'll see at the bottom of your carbs.
If I may make a suggestion, get the manual. The Clymer you can get here on the site and it benefits the site also. Just click the link at the top of the page.
Good luck and be safe.
Paul
when i bought my bike, i got a manual but i hate looking at those pictures, i have to see the real thing to really understand it
Hey, your just like me. In that case, get your tools and start taking the darn thing apart - piece by piece. Just kidding.
I do think you'll understand stuff the more you work on the bike. If you have a digital camara, take pictures of stuff before you take it apart, it can save you hours, and tons of headaches.
And of course, ask here. I do it all the time.
Paul
Quote from: PkaasoHey, your just like me. In that case, get your tools and start taking the darn thing apart - piece by piece. Just kidding.
I do think you'll understand stuff the more you work on the bike. If you have a digital camara, take pictures of stuff before you take it apart, it can save you hours, and tons of headaches.
And of course, ask here. I do it all the time.
Paul
Damnn Straight :thumb:
I had everything from the swingarm on back, ripped off my bike within the first 3 monthes of having it even though I bought it new. No good reason why other than I wanted to see how difficult it was to remove the chain. Tinkering with good tools is the best source for learning all things mechanical. Repair manuals are best for really tricky engine work.
Paul[/quote]
Repair manuals are best for really tricky engine work.[/quote]
Repair manuals are good.. but this site helps TREMENDOUSLY! :thumb:
To elaborate I'd like to replace the On / Res / Pri valve with a valve on each hose coming from the tank and then blocking off the vacuum connection at the carb.
The hoses coming from the valves would go to a "T" connection with 1 hose going to the intake on the carb.
This would elminate the vacuum as a factor but you would have to remember to always turn on and off the fuel. For reserve you'd just open up the valve on the reserve line.
The trick so far has been finding a decent valve for the job.