Help! I pulled the carbs off, cleaned them according to miket's tutorial and put them back together and on the bike again. Now when I open the petcock Gas starts leaking out of the air box. Any ideas whats going on here or what i need to do to fix it. Just having the typical noob freak out moment. Post here or IM me at miche142k. I'm searching but I'm losing light and want to get this dont tonight. Thanks.
Sorry, I'm dumb. I remebered the one thing I changed was plugging the vacuum inlet. with that plug on gas keeps leaking into the bowls. Without it the gas stops. Bike runs fine. Looks like I'll just have to buy that petcock on the other post, get a vacuum hose and everything should work fine. Fingers crossed. Since I cleaned the carbs now she seems to run much nicer, starts up a lot easier and is much more responsive on the throttle.
Alright, so I need to just buy a clymer. Until then I'd like to get this fixed so I can ride this week. My carbs were definately not put back together right (by the PO) now that i study some of the fiches a little bit better.
1. The nipples on the diaphram covers are not capped, they are connected to eachother with a hose.
2. Vacuum port is not plugged.
3. The fuel line is connected correctly from what I can tell (bottom "T" shaped connector)
4. The top 'T' shaped connector does not have anything attacthed to it
So, what hose should be on the nipple of the top T connector? I'm gonna have to go back and replug the vacuum port. Iis it ok to have that piece of hose connecting the two nipples on top of the diaphragm covers?
I can take them off to get pics tomorrow, but if I can fix it tomorrow that would make me extremely happy.
I guess this is how I learn.
Even if your petcock won't shut off the flow when your bike is off, it still shouldn't leak gas into the airbox. If gas is leaking into the airbox anytime, it means that your float valve is dirty, dammaged, the float height is set wrong or put together wrong. Search for how to set the float height, there are lots of posts about it. You may need a new float valve.
I think (but not sure) that it's okay for the two diaphram covers to be connected, you could put a spring clamp on it to see if it makes a difference, that would have the same effect as plugs.
If the vacume port is not connected to a hose it will have to be plugged.
Sorry, but it looks like you'll have to tear back into those things. :mad:
While you're down there put a filter just before the carb to prevent problems like this in the future.
Good luck :cheers:
Alright, someone else just asked abut the T's and that answered my question, top one shouldn't be connected to anything. In a bout of stupidity I dind't think and plugged this top T thinking this should be the exit for the vac hose. Un plugging that stopped the gas leak into the air box from what I can tell ( I left a paper towel under there to see if anything drips overnight)
Do you think plugging the vac port will stop the bike from Idling way too high after its warm (read "running for more than 30 min") and I touch the throttle? I haven't been able to get a definitive answer on this.
I need a beer, it helps the nerves after the frustration of putting the bike back together and finding out that I'm dumb.
:cheers:
Vac leaks are bad :nono: it will make your bike run lean, allow unfiltered air into the engine and cause a high or eratic idle, it's even worse if it's on one cylinder and not both, because you then have a really unballanced condition, with one cylinder running away from the other. You should definatly get a book to help you sort this all out. Nothing like a good diagram to help you allong, like they say a picture is worth a thousand words.
I would recomend hooking the vac port up to the petcock as it was designed to be, or if you have a non stock petcock, make sure to plug the vac port on the carb, it should run much better (and help your engine last longer)
good luck
Would any small inline fuel filter from an autozone or pepboys be alright? The one MC dealer close to me is terrible to work with so I try to avoid them at all costs. I'm gonna have the tank off when i get home from work so now would be a good time to throw one on there.
Alright, so today I plugged the vacuum ports correctly. Both the left and the right were unplugged (i have no frame petcock remember). That seemed to fix the rough idling and caused the RPMs to drop much faster when I let go of the throttle. I was going to take the bike for a ride so I rolled it back out of my parking spot (where I work on the bike - its on a slight incline) and started it and it began revving extremely high (8k rpm or more) when it was on level ground. I checked the idle screw, it was completely backed out. The throttle and choke were both off. I shut the bike off and started it again and this time it backfired. After a little searching I guessed that the float levels were off, maybe I messed them up when I cleaned the carbs. The fact that the angle the bike was on seemed to affect this made me a little more confident in my guess. (if the bike was angled, gas would fill one side of the bowl more than the other, forcing the floats closed easier vs. sitting level). I pulled the carbs again and checked the floats (no clear tubing for checking the easy way). I didn't have a very accurate ruler but the floats seemed to be 2 or 3mm less than the 14.6 prescribed so I adjusted the tab to compensate and remeasured. The carbs will go back on the bike tomorrow and we will see what happens.
PLEASE Let me know if you think there is something else I should look at while I have them off. I have gone over the carbs and ORings seem to be in place, diaphragms look ok and the float valves don't look worn. Gaskets look good. Like i said, I'm just going on best guess here, any input would be appreciated.
Anybody?
The extremely high revving scared me yesterday, I'm hoping maybe the float height had something to do with it but like i said, I'm just guessing. I've been reading and it seems that others have had this problems but noone really followed up with what it took to fix it. I'm gonna find an auxillary tank and not hook up the clutch and throttle so I can completely isolate the carbs and see how they work with me operating them by hand.
Its my understanding that running too much air OR too much gas can cause the engine to rev high (approx 8k for me) on its own - is this true?
Its also my understanding that backfires generally result from too lean of a mix - but I thought it was unburned gas , as in too much gas, going through the system and burning in the exhaust.
I don't mean to be annoying, I'm just a noob who wants to ride and is afraid hes gonna mess his bike up. I'm trying to learn as much as possible so one day I can be one of the experts on here offering suggestions.
Make sure your Idle screw is backed out all the way, and your throttle cable has a little slack at full idle. You should be able to rotate the throttle a tiny bit before it dose anything. Take off your airbox and look at the throttle plates, they should be virtually all the way closed at Idle. In fact if you're having the racing idle problem, maybee you should adjust them so they are ALL the way closed, and just crack the throttle to get it started, and stay running, then after it's run for a while, adjust the idle stop to keep it running hands off. Once it's fully warmed up after a ride, adjust the idle to 1100.
Make sure that when you move the handlebars, the cable tension dosen't change.
Too much fuel or air alone won't make the engine race, they both have to happen together.
Wrong float level shouldn't make the engine race, It has to be the throttle plates. The only exception, is if you're still running rich and you still have a vacume leak. That will give you fuel+air=engine revs up.
Yes any any small filter from the auto parts store should work, as long as it will fit the space, fuel line, and has enough fuel flow (just be carefull about some of the lawn mower ones). Check the hotrod isle, I've seen some reusable glass ones that are small and have several different size fittings, that shold work fine.