ok guys im stumped, and about to take it to a damn suzuki dealership. I cannot figure it out at all.
1. okay, had the carbs off again, entirely spotless, all jets flowing just fine, floats and float valves are both functioning fine.
2. Ive got a fuel filter on it, a clear one and i can see that its getting good gas, and if i yank the line off the filter, it has a shitload of pressure.
3. it has spark on both cylinders, both coil packs are working
4. both spark plugs are coming out clean, and are brand new and gapped correctly.
5. havent compression tested it yet, but it is an 01 with 84xx miles on it, so it should have compression, and it sounds good and makes plenty of power when it is runing right , so i would imagine that compression is good.
okay, issues i could imagine
1. i discussed it with a service pro at a motorsports place at she, yes "she" said that mabe it is vaporlocking (fuel boiling in line from getting too hot), but it is ran in the stock location so i don't know why
2. coil packs????
3. cdi box????
4. valve adjustments
????? anybody have any ideas before i take it off to a suzuki dealership and blow my college budget on it.
anybody come on. ill give 20 bucks to whoever figures it out ..paypal
mark
What kind of problem are you having? Does it start and run?
edit - found your other post. It sounds like an electrical problem to me. Search the archive for terms like "left cylinder dysfunction" , "Coil pack resistance", "auxillary ground" etc. You'll find the troubleshooting guide with step by step directions for measuring resistance and checking continuity in all the right places. I wish I could give you more specific help but I haven't had to go through the electrical system on my bike (knock on wood).
Quote from: importracer689 on September 30, 2006, 09:30:22 PM
ok guys im stumped, and about to take it to a damn suzuki dealership. I cannot figure it out at all.
1. okay, had the carbs off again, entirely spotless, all jets flowing just fine, floats and float valves are both functioning fine.
2. Ive got a fuel filter on it, a clear one and i can see that its getting good gas, and if i yank the line off the filter, it has a shitload of pressure.
3. it has spark on both cylinders, both coil packs are working
4. both spark plugs are coming out clean, and are brand new and gapped correctly.
5. havent compression tested it yet, but it is an 01 with 84xx miles on it, so it should have compression, and it sounds good and makes plenty of power when it is runing right , so i would imagine that compression is good.
okay, issues i could imagine
1. i discussed it with a service pro at a motorsports place at she, yes "she" said that mabe it is vaporlocking (fuel boiling in line from getting too hot), but it is ran in the stock location so i don't know why
2. coil packs????
3. cdi box????
4. valve adjustments
????? anybody have any ideas before i take it off to a suzuki dealership and blow my college budget on it.
anybody come on. ill give 20 bucks to whoever figures it out ..paypal
mark
so......what's the problem? what symptoms is the bike displaying?
I could come look at it in a couple of weeks for the cost of gas ($35 from Tallahassee to Dahlonega). I've been looking for an excuse to justify a trip to Atlanta (and Deal's Gap). I'm decent with carbs, but I can't guarantee anything. It may stump me too.
Quote from: Egaeus on October 01, 2006, 06:05:08 AM
I could come look at it in a couple of weeks for the cost of gas ($35 from Tallahassee to Dahlonega). I've been looking for an excuse to justify a trip to Atlanta (and Deal's Gap). I'm decent with carbs, but I can't guarantee anything. It may stump me too.
Gimme a PM when you come to Atlanta! /threadjack
When it acts up, can you tell if both plugs are firing? You said that both were clean so I assume that meant yes.
Have you checked the valve clearance?
what it is doing
crank it up, it rides just fine, makes plenty of power, revs fine
then it does one of a few things
1. twice it has just been riding a long and then bam-no power, wont idle, wont rev correctly, but it will run, and idle if i crank the idle sky high
2. usually, however, i turn it off, go into the store or something then bam...wont idle, no power, wont rev responsively at all. same symptoms. specific examples-a. rode it 25 or so miles, went into a gas station to piss, come back out..BAM same symptoms
b. rode it 1 mile to wal mart, went in, got my stuff, came out..bam same symptoms..
if i let it sit after it acts up it will run fine again..for awhile
things i have checked
1. auxillary ground
2. checked to make sure both coils are sparking strong (Right color spark and arcing a good .5 inch or so)
3. carbs..like 8000 times
4. fuel lines - it seemed like vapor lock, so i zip tied the fuel line up off the motor and it didnt help at all.
4. checked connections going onto cdi box (4 prong connector and when i yanked it off it was all clean underneath...
i have not checked valve clearance, could it cause it to be ghey sometimes and run just fine other times? i wouldnt imagine so, same thing with the carbs, it seems like it has to be something electrical, voltage rectifier, cdi box, coils????
anybody???
man..i would love to pay for your gas here, but i cant afford it, poor college budget working part time...and just bought and insured this stupid bike...dammit
thanks for the responses, keep them coming..im serious..20 bucks to whoever figures it out.
Easy/cheap things to try.
1. run it without the fuel filter for a few miles. Could vapor lock
2. Make sure the gas tank is letting air in as the gas goes out. IE next time the problem happens open the gas cap and listen for air to rush in. and try to run it.
3. Does not sound like a valve problem to me.
4. Play with the choke when it happens again. might be sticking.
Disclaimer: I am a noob and I've had little experience working on carbs.
Now, It sounds like my bike when I had the vacuum hose unplugged :mad: Maybe you didnt route them right? Maybe there's a leak? Mine usually started well in prime but revved at like 4k. in the on poslition it was bogging.
Since it seems to happen when it's warmed up...I think I would pull the fuel filter and
check the tank as has been suggeted. It sounds like the easiest place to start. If that doesn't isolate
it, you'll have to get it to act up and then check the ignition.
It sounds like an old car I had. It would only do it if it was cold.
Quote from: pookiebear on October 01, 2006, 04:58:24 PM
Easy/cheap things to try.
1. run it without the fuel filter for a few miles. Could vapor lock
2. Make sure the gas tank is letting air in as the gas goes out. IE next time the problem happens open the gas cap and listen for air to rush in. and try to run it.
3. Does not sound like a valve problem to me.
4. Play with the choke when it happens again. might be sticking.
1. i have ran it with and without the fuel filter, and with 2 different filters, no difference
2. havent even thought of that yet, a good possibility, where is it vented from?
3. me either, seems like it would be constant if it were a valve problem
4. i have done this, and it does not make a difference, it is not sticking, and i havent been using it at all.
Quote from: plusultra on October 01, 2006, 07:32:05 PM
It sounds like my bike when I had the vacuum hose unplugged :mad: Maybe you didnt route them right? Maybe there's a leak? Mine usually started well in prime but revved at like 4k. in the on poslition it was bogging.
it only has one vacuum line, from the left carb to the petcock, and it is good. doesnt leak at all anywhere, and when it messes up, it doesn't matter what position the petcock is in.
Quote from: dbarile on October 01, 2006, 08:26:45 PM
Since it seems to happen when it's warmed up...I think I would pull the fuel filter and
check the tank as has been suggeted. It sounds like the easiest place to start. If that doesn't isolate
it, you'll have to get it to act up and then check the ignition.
i will have to try to see if the tank is vented properly, where should it be vented, the line on the bottom? that seemed like a water drain from the cap area to me, but i wasnt sure
I got 2 words for ya ... crank trigger.
Dead giveaway its electronic. Runs fine when cold, loses one cyl when hot.
Figure out which cyl, then when the problem starts ... check spark. Yea it will be hot, but that's the point.
I have had a bike that will run if you are wfo before the problem starts and you never shut off the throttle. As in ... within 10 mins of a cold start, get on the highway, stay wide open, it will run. The instant you close the throttle to like take and exit, bam, its a GS 250.
Yea vapor lock, but guess what, vapor lock problems are easy to test. Open the tank cap and ride. I'm sure you've done that. Anyway try that also.
Cool.
Srinath.
well, i figured it out today.
it lost the right cylinder, no spark at all, so i was like well..rules me down to either,
1. crank trigger
2. cdi box
3. coil pack
4. plug wire
5. plug
so i rode it home 1 mile on 1 cylinder..hahahaha GS250. then switched the plug wires from side to side, and the left side sparked strong, and the right didnt, so then i carefully labeled which wire was wihich on each coil, then switched the signal wires from the left that was working to the right that wasnt, and nothing...so that elminates it being a problem anywhere else up the system, so i know that it is that one coil being bad. anyone have anything to point out that i could be dumb? i ordered a coil today from a shop pretty reasonably priced
i also checked it later, and either when the right coil gets "hot" it loses spark, or if you turn it off and then back on it loses spark, classic coil failure.
cracked coil will do those symptoms. when it heats up the coil loses its conductiveness??
You moved the whole coils across right. Not just the wire. Because just the wire will fire at the wrong time.
You're saying the problem followed the coil when you switched it side to side. OK then your diagnosis is correct.
Cool.
Srinath.
i switched just the wires, and pulled both plugs in order to not try to get it to run, but in order to get the coil to spark and it didnt at all
Sorry I dont understand.
Cool.
Srinath.
hows the fix coming along?
call me at work days in dahlonega i can look it over and have any part needed for it i am a gs god(i've owned 10+ of them and raced one for 5 years)work # is 706-216-8994 Lee
well, i put the 80 dollar coil on it and sure enough...BAM didnt fix it, im gonna call lee here tomorrow and see if he can take a look at it and maybe hook me up with whatever parts i DO need to fix it (maybe plus the tach that im missing.)
thanks guys, and i will keep ya posted
I know it sounds really dumb, but did you check the spark pug itself to make sure it was the right one? At the shop I used to work at I had 2-3 of my mechanics work 8+ hours on a bike that had the wrong plug. Your's should (both) be DPR8EA-9 by NGK don't run anything else in your bike.
If that isn't the problem my next guess would be not getting fuel as in excess vacuum in the tank preventing it from getting to the carbs. You may also have blockage in your line and or tank.
Hope that helps.
Jeff
Quote from: jeff721 on October 05, 2006, 09:36:46 PM
I know it sounds really dumb, but did you check the spark pug itself to make sure it was the right one? At the shop I used to work at I had 2-3 of my mechanics work 8+ hours on a bike that had the wrong plug. Your's should (both) be DPR8EA-9 by NGK don't run anything else in your bike.
If that isn't the problem my next guess would be not getting fuel as in excess vacuum in the tank preventing it from getting to the carbs. You may also have blockage in your line and or tank.
Hope that helps.
Jeff
hey man
im actually running dpr7ea-9 which is just a step colder, but doesnt seem to make any difference at al in how it runs, i put them in place of the dpr8's in order to maybe fix it before i really got into it.
the fuel is not the problem (i thought it was for the longest time), but i am actually losing spark from the coil on the right, only when the bike gets hot. after like 15 or so miles it will bam..lose spark on the right side which i thought was the coil heating up and breaking down, but it isnt, so im back to WTF? lol
thanks man
seriously, switch back to the dpr8ea-9 and see if it fixes your problem $6 for 2 plugs...would be a cheap fix, and definatly worth a try
import check the wires coming from the ignition pickups we have had one break before causing same problem the fabric casing was ok but wire broke inside carefully split casing w/ razor blade or use a fingernail to feel for broke wire .call me if needed ,Lee
You need to answer me and use decent grammar and punctuation.
The plugs you are using 1 step hotter not colder.
The ignition coils are not heat items though they do get some heat and they tend to hold it in due to epoxy (high end coils are oil filled) but our bikes dont need that.
Heat related = crank trigger. No question.
Cool.
Srinath.
srinath,i changed pickup coils and brain (both known good off my racebike)put the right plugs in it (new) checked all the wiring (no damage or loose connections)seems to be running fine-switched back to his original; stuff and it still seems to be running fine -has good compression-fuel in both carbs can't really find anything wrong w/ it ,mark says it drops a cylinder once hot but i rode it without a problem don't have a clue :cookoo:
OK maybe it was a bad connection or maybe a bad auxillary ground.
Is it still doing that ... You should do 1 at a time. Prolly crank trigger first ... try it. Then black box.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on October 08, 2006, 03:11:00 PM
OK maybe it was a bad connection or maybe a bad auxillary ground.
Is it still doing that ... You should do 1 at a time. Prolly crank trigger first ... try it. Then black box.
Cool.
Srinath.
alright man,
before i took it to lee, i checked the auxillary ground, the connections to the cdi box, the connections to the crank trigger, and the coil wire connections as well as the resistance across the coil wires themselves.
lee happened to have extra parts laying around so i bought them from him (Cheaply might i add. thanks man) and we went ahead and put both the crank trigger and the cdi box on. it has given me no trouble yet, but i have not ridden it for long yet. i wil ltake it out between classes tomorrow for about an hour and see how it does, then post back.
If this fixes it, which it should, I intend to put my old cdi box back on it in order to isolate the problem so i know which part was bad and which is good.
thanks guys,
mark
OK yea 1 at a time, lucky you only have 2 components ... Let me know.
Cool.
Srinath.
you sure the cams are turning? any chance the cam chain busted? or jumped a few tooth
Ranger?
Follow the thread, the bike starts and runs initially before one cylinder cuts out. This rules out any cam/camchain/timing issues. I agree with Sesh` in that the problem is related to the electrical system, something is breaking down or going open-circuit when it warms up, either through use or by engine heat. I read about something similar once, the guy solved it by taking off all the ignition components off the bike, taking and recording resistance figures across the coil, CDI and triggers. Then warming them slightly in a oven, testing again and comparing figures........The CDI box proved to be faulty but only when warm.
alright guys, its fixed, but at this point im not sure if it was the cdi box or the crank triggers, but whenever i get a chance ill post up which one of the two components it was
i rode it out for 50 miles and back and no problems
thanks guys,
mark