I have had nothing but problems with this motorcycle. Last night I had to practically push it home. The problem initially was that it wouldn't start, it wouldn't idle at 4000 rpm when I put it on choke, and it would promptly die if I didn't hit the throttle periodically. We had previously had to remove the tank to get it coated, and accidently switched the fuel hose with the reserve hose, even though we double checked where they were supposed to go. I read about this earlier in the forum, HOWEVER, no one said whether you can just leave it as is without causing problems, except to remember that your fuel line is now a reserve line and vice versa. Do I REALLY need to change the two hoses, since getting the tank off and putting the hoses on was a pain in the ass. Next issue was that I had the hardest time accelerating. I could only go up to 20 mph. What happened was that when I was at the gym, the entire bike got soaked from the sprinkler system. Could THAT cause electrical issues and severe power loss? Could water have gotten into the gas tank or spark plugs? Is the inability to accelerate and maintain speed a carburator problem? The previous owner had them rejetted not too long ago. It has not done this before. What is my troubleshooting list besides the one listed in Chapter 2 of the manual? Also, the engine just doesn't sound right. Not a knocking, ticking, but a different high pitched drone in 2nd gear at 20 mph. This is my first vehicle ever, so not sure what is normal or what is not. Your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
ok well I would switch your lines back just for simplicities sake. Then I would grab a copy of the haynes manual and clean the carbs and check the float height level. Those are pretty much basic steps that should be taking when your bike is acting funny.
Also pull the spark plugs and tell me what color they are.
Not being able to go past 20mph is strange
Are the sparkplugs tight?
What does it idle at with the choke on? What does it idle at without?
Did you remove the tank shutoff when you coated the tank?
Is the tank still coated, or did some of the coating come off and clog the filter screen in the tank?
Is there something covering the air intake/airfilter?
I am going to do that probably tomorrow. Going to give it a day to dry off and see if I can ride it. Will take it up to the seller this weekend and let him deal with it until I can find an alternate solution. However, do you have a diagram of HOW the fuel hoses are supposed to be hooked up? On the forum, they did one but for a different model. Should I follow that one? It is confusing how they have it depicted in the manual. Also, for MY simplicity sake, can I leave the lines hooked up as they are until I have to take the tank off? Let me know. Thanks!
That was also what I was thinking regarding the clogged tank. It is on and unfortunately the tank is FULL. I rode 40 miles on it before it did this crap. Could it still have gotten plugged up? The redtop stuff the radiator place used shouldn't have peeled or come off. When the choke is on and working, it will go up to 4000 rpm. When the choke is off, it will idle slightly above 1000 rpm. The previous owner JUST cleaned out and rejetted the carbs, so should it have a problem so quickly? This is a hell of a job.
You can still shine a flashlight into the tank and look to the left and see if there's anything covering the in-tank filter, it's the white thing sticking up into the tank.
What will the engine rev to? Above 6k rpms?
What kind of engine oil did the previous owner put in?
I will do that as well. I think the main culprit is that the carburaters need a valve adjustment. I ran it today and it died the first time starting it. THEN it only idled to maybe 2000-3000 rpm, gave it a bit of throttle, and it shot up to 4000. I let it go for 30 sec, and then released the choke. Idled at 1200 rpm. WAS able to rev it up to 6000 rpm in neutral. Went for a ride, and COULDN'T get past 25 mph. Opened up the throttle ALL the way down, and it could barely accelerate in 1st or 2nd gear. Shouldn't opening the throttle in 2nd gear almost take your head off? I would think so. What do you think? I am also afraid to mess with the spark plugs and check to see if they are worn out or oil damaged. One thing that I would like to know is if repeated killing of the engine (stalling it) and restarting it will wear out the plugs. I am a beginner and was notorious for having problems with starting from a stop. I would release the clutch too early and kill the engine and then have to restart it. So, let me know. Thanks for all your help.
It almost sounds as though a synthetic car oil is interfering with the clutch plates...
What kind of engine oil did the previous owner use?
Could a water logged air filter cause this kind of problem maybe? :dunno_white:
That's what I would check first.
"What happened was that when I was at the gym, the entire bike got soaked from the sprinkler system." :o
Pull the plugs and check them. (And the wires)
Check the oil, should be easy to tell if it has water in it.
Yes water will cause all kinds of problems with electrical circuits,
make sure there are no obvious pools of water shorting something out.
Was the battery soaked also? Make sure it will hold a charge.
Route the fuel lines properly. :icon_rolleyes:
If it was working ok when you went to the gym, then I would guess the soaking got to something.
KISS it, it saves time. (Keep It Simple Stupid.)
Jim
OKAY!!! Thanks for all the input. I checked the fuel line connections and spark plugs, checked if any of the filters were plugged, and drained the carburaters. There was a small amount of water in the collection basins. HOWEVER, please pass this on to anyone with a GS500 2001 model, DO NOT try to put a hose on the tank vent and attach it to the soft vent between the carburaters. You know WHY, because THEN that WAS the root of my problem and the bike ran like CRAP. Not sure what the mechanics of this malfunction are, but do NOT do that. The mechanics here don't know what the hell they are talking about. They told me to put a hose and connect the two, otherwise I would be spilling hot gas on a hot engine. Well, I guess not. Anyhow, not sure what kind of oil is in there. Suggestions as to the brand? I need 40W10. Should I use synthetic or not? I will do that myself when the time comes. It was done 7 months ago. I ride almost daily and do short trips. That means I need to change it more often. HOW frequently though? Also, the previous owner told me NOT to run the bike on PREMIUM gas but fill it with the cheap unleaded stuff. Is that correct? I did notice it ran better with regular than the premium. Also, does anyone have a handy diagram of what the fuel line connections should be for this model? The one in the manual is actually for another year. Weird. Thanks again!
Quote from: Kaizer on October 15, 2006, 02:57:59 PM
OKAY!!! Thanks for all the input. I checked the fuel line connections and spark plugs, checked if any of the filters were plugged, and drained the carburaters. There was a small amount of water in the collection basins. HOWEVER, please pass this on to anyone with a GS500 2001 model, DO NOT try to put a hose on the tank vent and attach it to the soft vent between the carburaters. You know WHY, because THEN that WAS the root of my problem and the bike ran like CRAP. Not sure what the mechanics of this malfunction are, but do NOT do that. The mechanics here don't know what the hell they are talking about. They told me to put a hose and connect the two, otherwise I would be spilling hot gas on a hot engine. Well, I guess not. Anyhow, not sure what kind of oil is in there. Suggestions as to the brand? I need 40W10. Should I use synthetic or not? I will do that myself when the time comes. It was done 7 months ago. I ride almost daily and do short trips. That means I need to change it more often. HOW frequently though? Also, the previous owner told me NOT to run the bike on PREMIUM gas but fill it with the cheap unleaded stuff. Is that correct? I did notice it ran better with regular than the premium. Also, does anyone have a handy diagram of what the fuel line connections should be for this model? The one in the manual is actually for another year. Weird. Thanks again!
Use any oil you want. I personally use Castrol GTX+ 40W10. There are special motorcycle oils. Some people call them a gimick, some people swear by them. Who knows. :dunno_white:
Premium vs Regular. Doesn't matter. You will get the same performance regardless. Don't waste your money, get regulat old 87.
here is an excerpt from wiki
"Many high-performance engines are designed to operate with a high maximum compression and thus need a high quality (high energy) fuel usually associated with high octane numbers and thus demand high-octane premium gasoline.
The power output of an engine depends on the energy content of its fuel, and this bears no simple relationship to the octane rating. A common myth amongst petrol consumers is that adding a higher octane fuel to a vehicle's engine will increase its performance and/or lessen its fuel consumption; this is mostly false—engines perform best when using fuel with the octane rating they were designed for and any increase in performance by using a fuel with a different octane rating is minimal."
Quote from: Kaizer on October 15, 2006, 02:57:59 PM
......................... not sure what kind of oil is in there. Suggestions as to the brand? I need 40W10. ...............................
Spell check.
40W10? How about 10W40.
:cheers:
The reason I question oil, is because some car oils (thin (10w30/5w30), energy saving) will cause the clutch friction plates to slip.
My bad. I wrote 10w40 initially and then changed it. I am dyslexic. Seriously! One more question, if you hear a repeated noise somewhere in the front of the bike at 20 mph and then it goes away with higher gears, should I be worried? I can't quite describe the noise, but it isn't a ticking or a clanging. Also, can you shift from 2nd to higher gears all at the same time while holding the clutch down (no releasing the clutch in between shifts)? I tried to go from 2nd to 4th, and the bike sort of coughed. I guess that would mean inadequate engine speed. I am still learning....suggestions?
2nd - 4th = bogging. Totally normal.
What do you mean? Why I want to bypass 3rd gear and go to 4th? Well, that is mainly for those 45 mph zones, occassionally the 35 mph. I just seem to pick up speed better when I go from 2nd to 4th. My friend that has been riding for decades goes from 2nd to 5th right away. Just holds the clutch and clicks up to 5th or 6th. Is this a bad practice? What is the general rule for the speed ranges from 3rd to 6th gear? I know 1st and 2nd gear limits pretty well. Basically, I don't ride above 4th gear in city traffic and most residential areas. The more input I get, the better, so thanks! I would love to become a great rider and driver...and mechanic as well ;)
Quote from: Kaizer on October 16, 2006, 12:16:03 AM
.................. My friend that has been riding for decades goes from 2nd to 5th right away. Just holds the clutch and clicks up to 5th or 6th. Is this a bad practice?
With the GS500 and a conservative driver I'd say generally yes it's a bad practice. It will usually put too much load on the engine, resulting in lugging. The only time I can see doing it is when you're going down a steep hill. Then when you engage the clutch the load on the engine will be minimized. If your friend has a big high torque engine then he can get away with it.
Quote from: Kaizer on October 16, 2006, 12:16:03 AM
What is the general rule for the speed ranges from 3rd to 6th gear? ...................
Suzuki's recommended shift schedule is:
1 to 2 at 12 mph
2 to 3 at 19 mph
3 to 4 at 25 mph
4 to 5 at 31 mph
5 to 6 at 37 mph
Most people will say these shift speeds are too low, however, for general use, conservative drivers they are ok.
If you're a more aggressive driver you can easily run the speed up in a lower gear and then bypass a few gears. So if you're in 2nd at 12 mph then run the speed up to 25 mph and shift to 4th you will meet Suzuki's schedule.
Ultimately, there are many ways to drive a motorcycle. Just don't lug the engine.
:cheers:
Quote from: John Bates on October 16, 2006, 06:21:40 AM
Suzuki's recommended shift schedule is:
1 to 2 at 12 mph
2 to 3 at 19 mph
3 to 4 at 25 mph
4 to 5 at 31 mph
5 to 6 at 37 mph
Most people will say these shift speeds are too low, however, for general use, conservative drivers they are ok.
If you're a more aggressive driver you can easily run the speed up in a lower gear and then bypass a few gears. So if you're in 2nd at 12 mph then run the speed up to 25 mph and shift to 4th you will meet Suzuki's schedule.
Ultimately, there are many ways to drive a motorcycle. Just don't lug the engine.
:cheers:
eeeh. I would ignore that. If you follow the above I don't think you'll ever break 3k on your bike.
That is what it says in the manual. My mechanic and long-time rider said that is too low too. In town, it is a heck of a job to downshift. Plus, didn't someone have a discussion on the forum about driving hard up to 8-9000 rpm per gear? Or did I misunderstand? I never go past 5000 rpm in one gear. What exactly does LUGGING the engine mean? I will try not to skip gears in the future. One more question, how LONG will it take to warm up the engine? I know it is shorter on warm days and when the engine feels warm after a ride. It has gotten cooler at night here, in the 50s, so how long should I warm up before I start driving? What is the proper warm up procedure? I turn the choke on for about 30 sec, if it doesn't rev past 2000 rpm, I give it some throttle to maintain it at 4000 rpm. Then I let it idle at 1000 rpm, and ocassionally rev it up to 4-6000 rpm. Sound good?
Lugging is where the engine has to work harder than it has to. This is by riding under 4000rpm in any gear but 1st. :nono:
Warm up on a properly jetted bike: 1 minute; 1 minute 30 seconds when it's cold out.
Full choke for no longer than 1 minute, gradually, or slowly, bumping the choke off. Do not occationally rev, unless you're going to hold it there for a while. Revving and chopping the throttle is bad for the cams, as oil delivery is interupted when you chop the throttle.
That sounds good. That means I should let the choke rev itself up to 4000 rpm? I should then slowly ease the choke up to starting position and let the engine idle at 1000 rpm? So is it then okay to slowly rev up the engine up to 4000 or so rpm while it is in neutral to make sure that it will work? What else are major bad practices that I should not do for this particular model? Thanks!
Quote from: Kaizer on October 16, 2006, 03:53:49 PM
...........................
What exactly does LUGGING the engine mean? ..........................
Lugging is when you try to accelerate and the engine feels powerless and the bike lurches. It's because the selected gear is too high and presents too much load for the engine to overcome. This can occur in any gear when the bike speed is too low for that gear. It can also occur when going up a hill and the hill overloads the engine.
There are two solutions to lugging:
1. Downshift
2. Let off the throttle, stop accelerating
Quote from: Kaizer on October 16, 2006, 03:53:49 PM
What is the proper warm up procedure? ............................................
It's in the Owners Manual:
"Immediatly after the engine starts, keep the engine speed at 2000 rpm by varying the choke lever position."
"Move the choke lever to the OFF position approximately 30 seconds after the engine starts. It may be necessary to use the choke longer than 30 seconds in extremely cold weather."
Tried the manual way of starting, HOWEVER, it will only go up to 1500 rpm. Is that bad? What is wrong with it? It starts okay, and takes less than a minute to idle at 1000 rpm. Also, does anyone know when the valves for the carbs need to be adjusted? How often do I need to check them with a dyno to make sure the mixture of fuel and oxygen is 14:1? The previous owner said he rejetted them not too long ago, so when do I need to adjust them? I took it to him today after having it for over a month, and he said everything was fine. I have not seen the engine lug, and I am being very careful to be going at least 4000 rpm per gear. I noticed that at the 30 to 35 speed limit, 3rd gear is best. 45 mph then 4th gear. Above that, 5th and 6th. Does that work?
You're thinking too hard about this shifting thing. Just ride it. Best rule of thumb is to be at 5K revs or more in any gear, cuz that's where your powerband starts. That way you can roll on, no matter where you are and have power to dodge/accelerate/whatever. Nothing worse than rolling on and getting a nice bog where you wanted power. THe carbs don't have valves. The engine does. Engine valves should be checked/adjusted every 4K miles.
I don't know where you live KAIZER but in Canada I find that my K2 GS takes long to warm up even in the 30 degree (celcius) summer days. I end up riding with the choke partially open for the first 5 minutes or so with uneven running until it is warm. Then I push the choke in and it smooths out well. I haven't upsized my jets like others suggest in other posts but I think if this cold start thing keeps up I will have to.
If you are having huge problems you may want to find out if the previous owner upsized the jets or if they are the stock ones. That might be part of your warm up problem too.
That is what the previous owner said. He upsized the jets himself and had everything adjusted. I guess I will go about 4k before I have a valve adjustment. So far, so good. I live in Florida, so sorry for you Canadians. However, it gets in the 20s here, so that is when I will have to take my time to warm up the bike. Also, is it normal for the back tire to lose up to 4 psi over 1 week? The front tire is fine. We checked it for leaks, but none are apparent. Any suggestions?
4psi per week... if it's not being ridden much, I guess I could see that. I mean, there is a reason why we're supposed to check our pressures before every ride (I need to buy another pressure gauge.. lost mine.. dangit)
Yeah, I check the pressures pretty often. The front tire is fine, the rear just seems to lose a bit every time. I ride almost daily, so could it have pinched itself on the rim or something like that? I don't see any puncture marks on it. How much would it cost to have the tire checked by a mechanic? What is the lowest pressure that it can get down to and still be okay to ride? I know the IDEAL pressures are 33 psi for front and 36-41 for back. One more thing, how long are tires good for when they have good tread and no cracking? Mine are 3-5 yrs old. There is some slight fine crack lines on the front tire, but nothing on the rear. Let me know. Thanks!
Honestly, at more then 2psi below normal, the bike will start feeling funny (at least, mine does. I get headshake, etc). As for tires that are 5 years old.. honestly, in Florida, I wouldn't trust em. I've lived almost my whole life in Naples, and I know what the sun does to rubber. I say dry rot is too scary. Your bike, your tires, your decision to trust em or not. But honestly, when you can get a new set for $130 or so (for NICE sport demons), I don't see why you wouldn't. Tires are the contact patch between your bike and the road. Which is way better than the contact patch between you and the road. (Been there, done that, got the bruises)
OHhhh. What does dry rot look like? How often do I need to replace the tires in Florida? Unfortunately I don't have a garage, so I put a waterproof cover over her day and night. I know extreme temperatures can do more damage than anything else to tires. If I keep losing air in the rear so frequently, I will have the set replaced and start from scratch. Same thing with the oil. It hasn't been changed in 7 months, but has less than a 1000 miles on it. It looks okay and the level is fine, but how often should I change it then? Let me know. Thanks.
My rule of thumb for oil changes is every 3K miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. YMMV. As for the tires.. ehh, if it's under a cover, dry rot won't be AS bad. You could always ask a tire place to look at em (don't know how honest they'll be).
That is true. I had two mechanics look over the bike. To be honest with you, I think they were lazy and I was too anal retentive, so they said, hell, ride the crap out of the bike until it falls apart. That is why I got a used, previously crashed bike. It has its love taps, but runs fine. I will ride it over by a shop and see what they say. How far is Naples from Gainesville? Just curious. Also, the bike was garaged the entire time the previous owner had it, that is why the tires seem okay. Not sure what the first owner did to it. As for the oil, I ride about 4 miles or so a day. Short commutes. That means more frequent oil changes. Another thing one guy told me is to check the oil when it's cold because that will give you a true estimate of how much oil is there. I have checked it both warm and cold and it seems fine. What do you think?
Naples is roughly 3.5-4 hours south of Gainesville. It's pretty much the same spot as Miami, but on the other coast. Another thing to look out for with those short commutes is your battery. Your charging system won't put out peak voltage until about 5.5K RPMs, and realistically, I think we decided that the bike should be running at or above 5.5K for like 15 mins to keep the battery in tip top shape. You may want to look into a trickle charger. As for the oil, I've always checked mine warm, same as on my car. That's just my $.02
Wow. Didn't know that. Oh, BTW, the coastal cities are worse for bike wear and tear. Sea air and salt and the roads wear out tires more because of ground up seashells. Read that somewhere. So I guess that means I have to ride in lower gears to build up the rpm in order to do as you say. But the engine sounds like it wants to die? Hmmm. Kinda hard to do around this college town. Have to stretch her out on some country roads for 15 min or so at least on the weekends. How often should I be doing that for the battery? Realistically, I ride in a 20 mph zone in 2nd gear most of the time. My daily commute. That sucks, but will have to do if I can't ride longer and farther and faster.
Quote from: Kaizer on October 17, 2006, 11:14:22 AM
Tried the manual way of starting, HOWEVER, it will only go up to 1500 rpm. Is that bad? What is wrong with it? .........................
Sounds like the choke needs adjusted. But 1500 rpm for warm up is probably ok, especially in Florida. It's only slightly less than the recommended 2000.
I wouldn't worry about it unless it takes too long to warm up and reach normal idle which is 1200 rpm.
:cheers:
Quote from: Kaizer on October 17, 2006, 01:05:21 PM
................. is it normal for the back tire to lose up to 4 psi over 1 week? The front tire is fine. We checked it for leaks, but none are apparent. Any suggestions?
The rear tire definitely has a slow leak. You should get it fixed or replaced.
:cheers:
Quote from: Kaizer on October 17, 2006, 02:13:32 PM
....................... As for the oil, I ride about 4 miles or so a day. Short commutes.
For normal riding change the oil every 3500 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first.
Changing more often is a waste of money and oil. Changing less often allows contaminents to build up.
Severe conditions, if any of these are your
normal conditions:
1. If the engine never gets fully warmed up
2. If the ambient temperature is always extremely hot
3. Extended idling like a taxi cab
4. Trailer towing or mountain driving
5. Continuously driving on dusty or deiced roads
require shorter oil change interval.
Quote from: Kaizer on October 17, 2006, 02:13:32 PM
............Another thing one guy told me is to check the oil when it's cold because that will give you a true estimate of how much oil is there. I have checked it both warm and cold and it seems fine. What do you think?
The temperature of the oil doesn't matter. What matters is that you want any oil that's in the upper part of the engine to drain to the bottom so that you measure all the oil. If the engine is hot from just being ridden, wait a minute or two for the oil to drain down. If the bike has been setting and the engine is cold that's fine too.
When you dip the stick to measure the oil, don't engage the threads of the cap.
Keep the bike vertical when making the measurement.
:cheers:
Thanks for the info. I will get the tires replaced because I am tired of refilling the rear tire every week. One guy told me to put a thin layer of vaseline all around the rim on both sides and see if that works. Since the tires are several years old, I think that would be best. Hate to eat pavement due to blowout. What BRAND of tires do you recommend? I heard borelli's are good. One more thing, WHERE did you read that the battery needs to be run and recharged on 5.5 rpm for 15 min? Where is the guideline that I need to keep each gear around 4000 rpm? I am usually in this range anyway, except 2nd. As for the oil, what BRAND do you recommend? Do you recommend synthetic or non? Some say use the suzuki or the castrol or mobil one. Oh, and what IS a fully warmed up engine? How can you tell? I leave the choke on for 30 sec to 1 minute. It goes to 1200 rpm usually after that. Also, it is always hot in Florida, so I assume that less than 3500 would be best.
To figure out where your tire is leaking, inflate it a little bit above the recomended ammout, say 45-50 or so (let out the excess air before riding though) and then take a spray bottle with soapy water and spray it on your tire. Little bubles will form wherever it's leaking.
As for the oil, this always starts big arguments, but I'd say that with your short rides, and the oil not getting fully up to temperature, it's best to change the oil more often. At least every 6 months, 3 months is best, but maybe unnecesary. The ocasional long ride is good for it too, it will let the oil get nice and hot for long enough for the water and fuel that accumulate to evaporate.
As for the oil type :dunno_white: everyone has their opinions and favorite brand, but as long as it dosen't say 'energy conserving' on the API stamp you'll be okay. For you I think it would be better to use a cheap oil and change it more often than to use a more expensive fully synthetic oil and not change it as often. Others will surely disagree so whatever. 10W40 weight though.
As far as the engine being "fully" warmed up, that means the oil and cylinders and head is all the way up to temperature. It only takes a minute or two of idilig before it's warmed up enough to ride, then it takes a few minutes before it will ride really smoothly, and then a few more minuted before it's "fully" warmed (then it's okay to beat on it) up then it takes a few more minutes for the fuel and water vapor that accumulates to evaporate out of the oil. So in just a couple of miles the oil will get partially warm, but not enough for the water and gas to evaporate, and in fact more will accumulate. Thats why your short trips require more frequent changes, going on a long ride (20 minutes or more) every week will help.
The Guideline about the 4,000 RPM, isn't written anywhere but you'll find out with experience that it works better and rides smoother. Also the alternator won't put out full output untill 5.5k or so, so your batt may run down over time. Trickle charger, or your weekly 20+minute ride will help with that.
Good luck :cheers:
Makes sense. I was told about the water not evaporating from the oil if I don't have the engine up to the correct temperature. I did some searching on the forum for more detailed info regarding oil and tire brands. I think I will try whatever I can get. Do I have to change the oil filter every time I do an oil change? I did the soapy water test on the rear tire. Nothing. They are both over 3 yrs old, haven't had too many miles put on it, the motorcycle has 8330 miles on it, so I think it is time for a change. Thanks for all the help.
You don't have to change the filter every time you change the oil, but many people do. In your case every other oil change would probally be fine. You'll put so few miles on it in 3 months that I doubt the filter would be clogged with particles, but the oil would have fuel and water which shouldn't plug up the filter.
Like I said before, how often you change your oil (for the riding you do) is more important than the type. Synthetics wouldn't be too much better in your case. The main advantage of synthetics is that they handle teperture extremes better, and high operating temps. They will still get dirty and full of gas and oil and in your case won't help. Many people will say what types of oil work well for them, but there aren't many posts about an oil not working. If you get an "energy concerving" oil it can make your clutch slip so stay away from those, change it frequently and you'll be good.
Tires :dunno_white: I got some Kenda crusers but they aren't anything special. Others have much more experience buying tires. Just keep in mind that many bike shops will charge twice as much to mount a tire that you bought somewhere else than one that you bought from them, so even if the tire costs a little more at a shop it may be cheaper to get it from a shop. Call around to find out if this is true in your area. Factor in mounting, shipping, tax, etc. when you find the best deal.
Also it's always MUCH cheaper if you remove your wheels and bring them into the shop rather than just bringing the whole bike in. Also it won't take them as long. Once I rode my bike to the shop and took my wheels off in the parking lot :laugh: It was better than spending another $40 or so.
Yeah, but I don't have any tools to take them off. If they are as much of a pain as doing bicycle tires, I will bypass this step and just get them done at a shop. I read the posts on the tires, but I still don't know what type of tires would be best for me for the 2001 model. I need something for all weather and all surface and ones that last a long time. The demons sound good but then I am not sure what I have on the bike now. Will have to check. How much does it cost to change the oil at a shop? It looks fairly easy to do on the bike. I have done it on a car. I think I will get help the first time I do the oil. I got some STP 10W40 and my mechanic friend got mad at me for trying to put crappy oil in the bike. She likes mobil one synthetic high end stuff. I just hope my riding style changes but I don't forsee it in the next 6 months or so. Just putzing around town and going out on some weekend trips. I cannot go on the highway yet. Been riding for only a month. What is the best running speed for the bike and for how long? These things were meant to withstand all kinds of usage. I follow the speed limit to a T so what do you suggest?
Quote from: Kaizer on October 18, 2006, 12:38:51 AM
.......................... It looks fairly easy to do on the bike. I have done it on a car. I think I will get help the first time I do the oil. ...................................
How to change oil (http://gstwin.com/oil_change.htm)
:cheers:
Quote from: ducati_nolan on October 17, 2006, 09:38:32 PM
To figure out where your tire is leaking, inflate it a little bit above the recomended ammout, say 45-50 or so (let out the excess air before riding though) and then take a spray bottle with soapy water and spray it on your tire. Little bubles will form wherever it's leaking.
Good suggestion! :thumb: I wouldn't go above 44psi, but that's just me. Check the stem as well (or, check it now).
If all you're doing is commuting, I would NOT recommend the sport demons. You can only look to get 3-5K miles out of them. Do a search for the word "tires" with the author as "GSJack" he's the acknowledged tire expert around here. His posts will have recommendations based on both longevity and stickiness. You're gonna need more longevity than stickiness.
It sounds like you need to invest in a good shop manual for your GS. I had all kinds of unknowns in my head about my K2 before I picked up the Clymer manual for GS500 1989 - 2002. It answered a lot for me. And coupled with the Oil Change instructions in the How To's it makes that easy too. It seems like such a waste of money to have someone else change your oil for you. Just be careful when you are adjusting the bolts. A torque wrench could be the best money you ever spend.
Once you have the manual you can use the information on this site to "supplement" the information that you have. No matter what the manufacturer says there is always room for opinion.
QuoteYeah, but I don't have any tools to take them off. If they are as much of a pain as doing bicycle tires, I will bypass this step and just get them done at a shop
For less than what the shop charges to remove your wheels you can buy the tools. In a pinch a decent crecent will work, but to do most of the work on the bike properly, all you need is: Set of screwdrivers, Set of metric combo wrenches, set of metric allen wrenches, and pliers. Other stuff is handy but these should get you threough 90+% of it. A torque wrench is nice too but you can get by without it.
QuoteHow much does it cost to change the oil at a shop? It looks fairly easy to do on the bike. I have done it on a car
Same answer as above, it's easy. Follow the link that John posted and/or buy a manual
QuoteI got some STP 10W40 and my mechanic friend got mad at me for trying to put crappy oil in the bike. She likes mobil one synthetic high end stuff.
Bahh, for the riding you do just change it often, unless the STP has teflon or fricton modifiers (read the bottle) you're fine. Once you start riding harder, faster, and longer distance then you can think about going to a synthetic. Right now just go cheap and often.
QuoteThe demons sound good but then I am not sure what I have on the bike now. Will have to check.
sport demons don't last long, get something cheaper and longer lasting. It'll be a while before you start pushing the limits of your tires. So long as they are new and have no age cracks it'll do you fine. Once you start riding faster you can look into the sportier tires.
QuoteWhat is the best running speed for the bike and for how long? These things were meant to withstand all kinds of usage. I follow the speed limit to a T so what do you suggest?
about 20-80mph is fine. Once a week or so ride it for 20-30 minutes or so to allow the accumulated gas and water to evaporate. Don't ride on the highway untill you are ready
Yeah, read the site on how to change the oil on the gs. Very good! I did check the entire tire and valve. It is raining today so will have to try the vaseline thing tomorrow.
Good suggestions. I have the clymer manual, actually read the entire thing, but still have to refer to some things once in a while. I wouldn't trust myself to align and put the tires on myself. The oil I will do myself with the help of the website and manual. I did read Jack's notes on tires, HOWEVER, he doesn't mention much about the 2001 model that is why I asked. I guess I can go cheaper on both since I don't go out riding much more than 1-2 hrs a week on long rides. I do very short commutes around town and that is it. I don't see myself doing a cross country trip any time soon. Just remember, my boss and mom JUST found out I have a motorcycle and I am still trying to deal with them, let alone get my ass killed on the highway!
I have a Bridgestone Exedra G550 rear on my 2002. It's supposed to be rated for GS500E's from 1994-2001 but it works on my bike just fine. I haven't had any problems but I have only had it for one season. It was reasonably priced and recommended by the guy who did the safety on my bike.
As for tools, what specific metric measurements should I use for the wrenches? I have most of the tools myself, except a torque wrench. Where can I get these fairly cheaply? I have an automotive set, but it isn't metric. Also, on the website I read that the dimensions for my tires are 110/70. Is that correct? I will get harder more durable tires than the softer, sportier ones as well. Also, should I change the cheap oil every 3000 miles or sooner? I couldn't find anything on the bottle of STP oil regarding its contents. The oil was from the dollar store. I don't think I want to go that cheap. Also, how often does the K&N air filter need to be changed? It isn't black or discolored. What causes dry rot and can you prevent it? What exactly does it look like? I've only put 300 miles on the bike in a month, but hope to do more riding especially on the weekends.