My clutch is beginning to go (slips into neutral, high RPMs while slowly accelerating, jerks when put into gear, jumps out of gear, etc.) and it is time to replace. However, do I have to replace the whole assembly or can I get away with less? Have you ever replaced your clutch and if so what frustrations did you encounter, any heads up you can give, and in the end would it had been better for a shop to do the work? What other GS model year clutch would fit my 1990 GS500EL?
Thanks.
(http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/82/gsclutchkq1.th.gif) (http://img413.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gsclutchkq1.gif)
You replace the friction plates, and sometimes the springs. It's wicked easy. Go for it.
But first make sure you're adjusted as much as it will go, just to be sure you really need to do the work.
Quote from: Chuck on November 01, 2006, 07:34:03 PM
But first make sure you're adjusted as much as it will go, just to be sure you really need to do the work.
I must be dumb and don't know it or it's late either way I don't understand. :icon_confused: Are you saying it might not be the clutch or that the cable is not adjusted right? :dunno_white: I'm pretty sure it is the clutch as it is not as responsive while accelerating under load. I've never brought the bike over 65 MPH but with 1 down and 5 up with red line being 10 (I think) I would assume the gears would wind out longer.
Thanks. :)
Yup, as your clutch plates wear they become thinner, and as a result changes how much you need to deflect the clutch lever to get into the friction zone. It can get to the point (depending on your initial adjustment) where when the clutch lever is fully released, there is still tension that is holding the clutch somewhat open. See if putting a little more slack in the cable helps. This is not often the case, so it probably won't, at which point you are doing a (very) minor repair.
You can buy the right number of OEM friction plates, or an aftermarket clutch kit (I do whichever is cheaper at the moment). Some people replace the springs every time, some people (like me) check if they're in spec and re-use them. An OEM clutch kit might come with new springs. Also, buy a new clutch cover gasket.
If you don't have a Haynes or Clymer, just use http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/clutch_replacement/ or http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm or one of 1000 other online guides (knowing that they're not exactly for a GS500, but all motorcycle clutches are basically the same)
Just remember when you're removing the pressure plate screws, go around and unscrew them evenly in a criss-cross to avoid creating any nasty forces on the pressure plate.
If that's not enough info, just say so.
Quote from: davidcl on November 01, 2006, 06:59:52 PM
My clutch is beginning to go (slips into neutral, high RPMs while slowly accelerating, jerks when put into gear, jumps out of gear, etc.) and it is time to replace. However, do I have to replace the whole assembly or can I get away with less? Have you ever replaced your clutch and if so what frustrations did you encounter, any heads up you can give, and in the end would it had been better for a shop to do the work? What other GS model year clutch would fit my 1990 GS500EL?
Thanks.
(http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/82/gsclutchkq1.th.gif) (http://img413.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gsclutchkq1.gif)
If it is actually jumping out of gear, it is a gearbox issue, not a clutch issue. If you want me to look at it, I live in Berwyn, not far from you. IM me and I will give you my contact info.
Quote from: D-Day on November 04, 2006, 09:01:21 AM
If it is actually jumping out of gear, it is a gearbox issue, not a clutch issue. If you want me to look at it, I live in Berwyn, not far from you. IM me and I will give you my contact info.
Thanks for the offer but you're about 2 hours from me, however, I'll look into the gearbox as well.
Thanks.
you only need to pull one side cover to change clutch plates, but to check the gearbox you need to split the cases (gear dogs and shift forks). im wondering if you dont have a bad case of missadjusted cable & thin plates with a touch of LLT syndrom (anyone remember that one?)
Quote from: davidcl on November 04, 2006, 10:11:26 AM
Quote from: D-Day on November 04, 2006, 09:01:21 AM
If it is actually jumping out of gear, it is a gearbox issue, not a clutch issue. If you want me to look at it, I live in Berwyn, not far from you. IM me and I will give you my contact info.
Thanks for the offer but you're about 2 hours from me, however, I'll look into the gearbox as well.
Thanks.
Well, you aren't in Chicago then. :laugh: Berwyn is 10 minutes from downtown Chitown.
On that part fiche' it seems like I would need numbers 8 (six of them it looks like), 7, and possibly 10 (the springs). Haven't seen any aftermarket clutches or an OEM clutch (rebuild?) kit. I have seen new plates and a salvaged clutch assembly on the bay. Getting a repair manual right now. Looking at the books or CD (anyone bought one of those?). From there I will look at the diagnostic section and see what else I may need to look into such as the gearbox that was mentioned. However, from my limited knowledge it would seem that the bike would have a hard time going forward (which it does not) say there was something wrong with the gear box. All in all I could pay for my local bike shop diagnose what is wrong which is always the hardest part with something mechanical.
Thanks.
So all of my parts have come in and I've got my Loctite Blue handy. However, I was reading over the instructions that came with the fiber plates and it says that I must soak them in oil for FIVE HOURS? I don't mind waiting that long, I guess, for perfection but I might be too drunk to finish after that long, j/k. :cheers: Anyway, the clymer manual says nothing of this so I'm wondering do I have to a) soak at all or b) soak for FIVER HOURS?
Thanks. :)
Soak em soak soak em! You have a wet clutch, soaked in oil. If the dry plates are put under load the may stick together, that would be bad. Soak em some good clean oil.. At least a couple hours.
5 Hours??? is that all?.....Things have progressed. The last time I changed a disc-set the instructions said soak in oil for a minimum of 24hours. Dont be too dissapointed if the problem is still there after replacing the corks. Jumping out of gear is not a problem thats usually associated with a worn clutch, weak detent springs, wear in the selecter mechanism, or wear in the selecter drum/forks or drive dogs are usually the problem.
Why not just Install them and Pour oil in the Motor? Let it set for a while and Turn the Motor Over every once in a while and Work the Clutch Lever a few times. :dunno_white:the Whole Clutch is Going to be Bathed in Oil after it's Installed.
Quote from: Jughead on November 25, 2006, 04:04:27 PM
Why not just Install them and Pour oil in the Motor? Let it set for a while and Turn the Motor Over every once in a while and Work the Clutch Lever a few times. :dunno_white:the Whole Clutch is Going to be Bathed in Oil after it's Installed.
The clutch plates are pressed together when the clutch lever is not pulled, so the plates will not be soaking up the oil. If the clutch plates are not properly prepped, the clutch plates can glaze and then they will slip for the life of the clutch.
If its coming back out gear about as soon as you shift sometimes it could be the lazy toe, but when I had my old 92' just as soon as I would let off the throttle to shift up to the next gear it would drop its self out of gear right before I'd be going to up shift, so I usually ended up shifting right back into the same gear, I had just over 100,000 miles on that bike so I 'm sure it was worn out gears and dogs.
(Weather permiting) Once you get that new clutch put in find a nice quiet street or big empty parking lot would be better and cruise in second gear(about 3,000 RPM) and roll on the throttle to about 7-8,000 RPM's and then slowly let off and let the engine slow you down, and then roll on it again. Try that a bunch of times in second gear and third gear if possible and see if it stays in gear, please be careful and don't focus on your tach. If it comes out of gear that's usually a sure sign of worn gears and/or dogs. This was something I had read here over a year ago, so you might want to search for that Post if you need some more info.
P.S. When I did this on my old bike it did come out of gear about every 5th or 6th time. So again be carefull. :cheers:
i havent looked into the clutch plates on a gs500 and i hope i never have to. but i had the same problem with my 1975 Yamaha dt175 (which is for sale in San Luis Obispo, CA) and all i did was compress the clutch springs with washers so it would put more pressure on the plates. it worked pretty good and dident cost anything.
I don't understand how the clutch works :laugh:
There are the serrated rings, pressed together... but then what?
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm
Thanks NGFL! I've had people explain clutches to me before (and have had people replace a few for me too :laugh: ), but, being a visual person, never fully understood them until looking at that website. :thumb:
Chilly
genius... almost mind-boggling :cookoo:
Thanks for all the good information. ;)
The clock was rounding 11 pm when I noticed that the torque wrench I had only went down to 10 ft/lbs. I need 35-53 in/lbs so I put the plates back in the jumbo zip lock baggy full of motor oil (10-40) and left it for the night. Today I called AutoZone for the Loan-a-Tool program but they only had ft/lbs so I bought a in/lbs torque wrench at a place called Habor Freight for $30.
The plates that came off the bike don't look to bad and I'll check them with a mic. The only noticeable difference between the new and the old is the old steel plates have pin sized dents in them with noticeable burn marks while the new have no pin pricks in them. The new friction plates have a half moon notched taken out of one of the tabs. The instrutions that came with it say nothing about nor does the Clymer manual. Not sure if I should align all of the notches or align them clock wise around the clutch hub?
So I'll tighten everything back down to spec, replace the gasket, and fill it back up with oil. We'll see if all of this helps.
Thanks. :)
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on November 26, 2006, 10:17:59 AM
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm
Wow thats a great site, thanks NGFL !
I thought this one is pretty cool too!
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine1.htm :thumb:
No problem guys.. I love howstuffworks, always some entertaining reads..
Quote from: davidcl on November 26, 2006, 01:30:40 PM
So I'll tighten everything back down to spec, replace the gasket, and fill it back up with oil. We'll see if all of this helps.
Don't forget the related adjustments--not just the cable but also the screw/locknut clearance adjustment in the sprocket cover. Without clearance, you won't have full clutch engagement. :cheers:
Quote from: Gisser on November 26, 2006, 06:07:16 PM
Don't forget the related adjustments--not just the cable but also the screw/locknut clearance adjustment in the sprocket cover. Without clearance, you won't have full clutch engagement. :cheers:
Should I mess with all of that considering I never touched it nor do I know of anyone else touching it? I guess I could go over the needed (?) adjustments in the Clymer manual and make sure they are correct. I've never touched the cable and the screw/lock-nut clearance with the sprocket cover. I am also not sure those would go out of adjustment as the plates became smaller. Thanks for the heads up though.
In other news, I was all ready to put it back together but when I was tightening the bolts on the pressure plate I applied to much torque (not sure how that happened since I was using the right torque wrench) and one bolt snapped and one almost broke. Luckily I go the broken bolt out with little hassle. So tomorrow it is off to the hardware store, local bike shop, and/or Suzuki dealership to see if I can't pick up some new bolts. Otherwise, I'll have to order them off of Ron Ayers and wait a week. :cry:
Thanks. :)
Quote from: davidcl on November 26, 2006, 11:39:59 PM
Quote from: Gisser on November 26, 2006, 06:07:16 PM
Don't forget the related adjustments--not just the cable but also the screw/locknut clearance adjustment in the sprocket cover. Without clearance, you won't have full clutch engagement. :cheers:
Should I mess with all of that considering I never touched it nor do I know of anyone else touching it? I've never touched the cable and the screw/lock-nut clearance with the sprocket cover. I am also not sure those would go out of adjustment as the plates became smaller. Thanks for the heads up though.
The clearance there is measured in the thousandths (inch). There is no standardized factory setting. It varies engine to engine.
The adjustment is incredibly simple and just takes a few minutes. :thumb: You wouldn't want to risk burning up a new clutch.
Quote from: davidcl on November 26, 2006, 11:39:59 PM
Quote from: Gisser on November 26, 2006, 06:07:16 PM
Don't forget the related adjustments--not just the cable but also the screw/locknut clearance adjustment in the sprocket cover. Without clearance, you won't have full clutch engagement. :cheers:
Should I mess with all of that considering I never touched it nor do I know of anyone else touching it? I guess I could go over the needed (?) adjustments in the Clymer manual and make sure they are correct. I've never touched the cable and the screw/lock-nut clearance with the sprocket cover. I am also not sure those would go out of adjustment as the plates became smaller.
Are you kidding me? you replace the clutch without ever bothering to fiddle with its adjustment? You might well find that the only thing you needed to do is adjust clearance.
Be it as it may: after replacing the clutch you
will have to go over that adjustment. It would be a rare coincidence if that were correct after the swap.
Quote from: MarkusN on November 27, 2006, 04:29:51 AM
Quote from: davidcl on November 26, 2006, 11:39:59 PM
Quote from: Gisser on November 26, 2006, 06:07:16 PM
Don't forget the related adjustments--not just the cable but also the screw/locknut clearance adjustment in the sprocket cover. Without clearance, you won't have full clutch engagement. :cheers:
Should I mess with all of that considering I never touched it nor do I know of anyone else touching it? I guess I could go over the needed (?) adjustments in the Clymer manual and make sure they are correct. I've never touched the cable and the screw/lock-nut clearance with the sprocket cover. I am also not sure those would go out of adjustment as the plates became smaller.
Are you kidding me? you replace the clutch without ever bothering to fiddle with its adjustment? You might well find that the only thing you needed to do is adjust clearance.
Be it as it may: after replacing the clutch you will have to go over that adjustment. It would be a rare coincidence if that were correct after the swap.
Its a 1990 GS500(bought used I'm sure), I don't think David ever said how many miles are on it, but there's a lot of things that I would be replacing for piece of mind, and for the learning experience.
The saga continues... Bought stainless steel bolts to replace the broken bolts (the bolt is 6X40 STD thread for anyone who needs that information). Went to torque the bolts down again at 35-53 in/lbs and broke a bolt again. :mad: So I no longer used the torque wrench and tightened the bolts to where I felt they were secured tightly. I had a feeling for this after snapping two.
My second snag was that when I went to put back on the signal generator I could not align the rotor with the alignment pin...because it was gone. When I removed it previously I did not see a very small pin nor did it talk about it in the removal procedure. Anyway, do I need this pin for the signal generator to function properly or is its purpose to help in getting the alignment correct? Wanting to finish, I put the signal generator on anyway but used a pen and made a mark on the signal generator (where the pin should stick out) and made a mark on the rotor.
And my third snag was that I did indeed need to adjust the clutch cable, as it was very loose. I read over the procedure in the Clymer manual and it seemed easy enough. The only problem is I can not get at the clutch release cap. The horrible Phillips screws are stuck and the heads want to strip, easy. A) Can I adjust the clutch by taking the sprocket cover off and getting at it that way and B) what tips, tricks, or advice do you have to get that cap off. The only thing I can think of is have a machine shop drill and tap the holes, but maybe you have a better method.
To recap: do I need the alignment pin if I aligned the rotor correctly, how do i adjust the clutch cable with out being able to get the cap off, and do you have a method for getting the Phillips screws out? :dunno_white:
I've provided pictures for more clarity about what I'm talking about.
(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6830/crankpinhc9.th.jpg) (http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image=crankpinhc9.jpg)
(http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/6917/sprocketcoverfp0.th.jpg) (http://img474.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sprocketcoverfp0.jpg)
Thanks for any help that you can provide. Greatly appreciated. This is starting to become frustrating. :2guns:
Oh, FYI, the bike has > 24,000 miles on the clock.
Quote from: davidcl on November 28, 2006, 06:11:35 PM
A) Can I adjust the clutch by taking the sprocket cover off and getting at it that way and B) what tips, tricks, or advice do you have to get that cap off. The only thing I can think of is have a machine shop drill and tap the holes, but maybe you have a better method.
No, the sprocket cover has to be on and screwed down to set the actuator clearance. No other way. I take it you didn't use an
impact driver when attempting to remove the plate screws? :dunno_white: It's probably not too late as an impact driver can remove screws in pretty poor condition. If you work on your bike you need one so if you don't have one get one (< $10 @ Walmart). As for drilling, only the screw heads would have to come off and no tapping. :cheers:
There are three points where you can adjust clutch free play:
The knurled screw up at the clutch lever under the rubber boot.
At the end of the clutch cable sleeve at the sprocket cover (the adjuster with the counter nut)
Behind that cover with the two phillips screws.
They basically all do the same: The move the position of the clutch pressure plate relative to the clutch handle movement. So if you can't open the clutch adjuster cover, just adjust at one of the other two points.
Did you have the clutch actuator screw out of its nut? Thats the part on the inside of the two-phillips-head cover. If you inserted it in the wrong thread (it is multi threaded) its position can be way off.
Quote from: MarkusN on November 29, 2006, 09:07:15 AM
There are three points where you can adjust clutch free play:
The knurled screw up at the clutch lever under the rubber boot.
At the end of the clutch cable sleeve at the sprocket cover (the adjuster with the counter nut)
Behind that cover with the two phillips screws.
They basically all do the same: The move the position of the clutch pressure plate relative to the clutch handle movement. So if you can't open the clutch adjuster cover, just adjust at one of the other two points.
:icon_confused: This is not quite right. The screw/locknut behind the phillips screw plate sets the pushrod and actuator clearance independent of the cable. If there's no clearance at this juncture then slack in the cable won't help.
:thumb:
Quick tutorial: Loosen locknut...back out screw a couple turns...turn screw back in until resistence is felt then back off 1/4 turn and secure adjustment with locknut. :o Amazing the OP could break bolts with 50 inch lbs. Are you reading that torque wrench right?
Um yeah, 50 inch pounds is like 4 foot pounds. Hope you weren't going for 50 foot pounds or you're lucky to have a clutch basket still.
regarding torque:
Since I tighten all my bolts by hand, I try to make them "tight, and then some". Do the lbs. numbers correlate roughly to the amount of force necessary to lift that amount of weight?
i.e., 35 lbs torque = 35 lbs weight lifted? Obviously this is guesstimating by hand, but that's what I sort of envision as I'm wrenching them down.
I wish I was reading it wrong. :laugh: I did have a torque wrench in the shop before I started but the project was put off because the torque wrench (very long) went from 20 ft/lbs to ?. So I went out and got a in/lbs torque wrench (very short). Maybe it's cheap (it was $30). I read the entire directions and I am sure that it doesn't take much skill to set and operate. Also, it says inch pounds right on the handle so no mistaking it. And I broke the bolts at 40 in/lbs.
I will use an impact wrench. I have a large metal one shaped like a gun that I use to take the lug nuts off my truck. Maybe this is overkill. I was using an air ratchet with 50 ft/lbs breaking power, but this did not work. If I drill and remove the head I'll have to use a left handed drill bit to get the threads out correct? I guess this is an easy out kit. Although, I don't have great luck with these as they are hardened steel, very brittle, and seem to break easy making it impossible to drill out.
Anyone have any comments on the signal generator rotor pin?
Also, it is interesting that you mentioned that. I did in fact take the sprocket cover off and did remove the two Phillips screws and did take the actuator out of it's nut. The nut has ball lined threads. I don't remember how it was. The flange that holds the nut has a lip on one side. The nut has one folded tab on one side and four or three folded tabs on the other side. I put the side with the lip and three or four folded tab into the hole (I put it in facing the stuck cap cover). The flange also has a small side and a big side (it's off set). Since it can be screwed in both ways, does the big side face the front of the bike (if the cover is installed) or the back (if the cover is installed)? I did notice that when you pull on the handle the actuator screws out from the nut and looks like it presses on a small protruding rod out of the crankcase. Pushing on this rod disengages the clutch? Since I don't remember how the flange should be attached it also makes it difficult to determine how the actuator should be screwed in or what angle or level it should sit at installed. Is there a guide to this?
Thanks. :)
Quote from: davidcl on November 29, 2006, 06:21:33 PM
I will use an impact wrench. I have a large metal one shaped like a gun that I use to take the lug nuts off my truck. Maybe this is overkill. I was using an air ratchet with 50 ft/lbs breaking power, but this did not work.
:o What we have here is a failure to communicate.
Impact driver:http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_36882_36882
Quote
If I drill and remove the head I'll have to use a left handed drill bit to get the threads out correct?
Hopefully, once the heads are off the cover plate can be removed and the screw threads removed with pliers. Oops, those screw heads are countersunk, there may not be much thread left to grab.
Impact driver first.QuoteAnyone have any comments on the signal generator rotor pin?
A temporary solution until another pin can be had. It may slip if you rotate the crank using the hex nut and the governor will then be out of position.
QuoteThe nut has one folded tab on one side and four or three folded tabs on the other side. I put the side with the lip and three or four folded tab into the hole (I put it in facing the stuck cap cover).
Looks right. The adjusting screw threads into one side and that should be self evident.
QuoteThe flange also has a small side and a big side (it's off set). Since it can be screwed in both ways, does the big side face the front of the bike (if the cover is installed) or the back (if the cover is installed)?
:dunno_white: There's a reason for everything. You'll figure it out. :cheers:
What kind of oil are you using?
Quote from: Gisser on November 29, 2006, 02:41:02 PM:icon_confused: This is not quite right. The screw/locknut behind the phillips screw plate sets the pushrod and actuator clearance independent of the cable. If there's no clearance at this juncture then slack in the cable won't help.
:thumb: Quick tutorial: Loosen locknut...back out screw a couple turns...turn screw back in until resistence is felt then back off 1/4 turn and secure adjustment with locknut.
True, didn't think of that. However, I never had the need to adjust at that point, but with the cutch wearing down the need may arise.
I am using 10W-40. (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/hmbottle_usa_180x145.jpg)
OK, glad we cleared that up. I will use an impact driver. ;)
I'll order the pin and replace it as soon as possible. If the rotor does become malaligned I assume the tachometer will give a false reading?
Quote from: davidcl on November 30, 2006, 06:34:15 AMI'll order the pin and replace it as soon as possible. If the rotor does become malaligned I assume the tachometer will give a false reading?
Nope, ignition timing will be off. (Not a good thing. In fact, a quite bad thing.)
Is that a synthetic, energy-saving car oil?
Quote from: davidcl on November 30, 2006, 06:34:15 AM
I am using 10W-40. (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/hmbottle_usa_180x145.jpg)
OK, glad we cleared that up. I will use an impact driver. ;)
I'll order the pin and replace it as soon as possible. If the rotor does become malaligned I assume the tachometer will give a false reading?
You are useing auto oil in your motorcyle, synthetic oil designed to swell seals to prevent leaks in cars? :o and now your clutch is gone? Hmmmmm.
I don't buy into the whole its ok to use car oil in your bike idea. Its been debated before just doesn't seem like the gamble I wanna take.
Best of luck!
Quote from: rob1bike on November 30, 2006, 04:21:18 PM
Quote from: davidcl on November 30, 2006, 06:34:15 AM
I am using 10W-40. (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/images/products/hmbottle_usa_180x145.jpg)
OK, glad we cleared that up. I will use an impact driver. ;)
I'll order the pin and replace it as soon as possible. If the rotor does become malaligned I assume the tachometer will give a false reading?
You are useing auto oil in your motorcyle, synthetic oil designed to swell seals to prevent leaks in cars? :o and now your clutch is gone? Hmmmmm.
I don't buy into the whole its ok to use car oil in your bike idea. Its been debated before just doesn't seem like the gamble I wanna take.
Best of luck!
+1 , But, if it's from a green bottle of Castrol GTX I think its just regular car oil, not synthetic, which I myself think is even worse.
no it's a synthetic blend, base 3 polymers
Just to clarify ft/lbs
Is a unit of measure of force over a fulcrum. eg: in this application it's the weight of your body's force divided by the wrench's length. =the longer the wrench the less you have to push.
I KNOW THAT MY MANUAL has everything listed in N/m not ft/lbs I would triple check that...50n/m is about 20ft/lbs.....My 1/2" drive tourque wrech (I use on HD equipment) goes from 35ft/lbs up to 220ft/lbs and it's about 20" long, I HAVE yet to snap a grade 8 bolt, but when I was putting on new rotors on my bike I was using my wrech set at 30ft/lbs and it did not engage at that setting and I broke 3 of the 5 mo-fos off.. AKa-the rotor bolts snap like toothpicks @ less than 30ft/lbs.....cheap-o suzuki bolts? or years of wheel vibration, either case I was :mad: just bought a used wheel inseat of drilling and tapping all that headache
Just an update. I took back the torque wrench, getting my money back, and I bought a impact screw driver set. I bought this exact one (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46978). I wasn't sure if this was a pneumatic tool so when I bought it I wasn't sure I was buying the recommended tool. Anyway, place the tip in the socket and place the tip in the stuck screw. Whack the end with a hammer a few times, twist the handle and out comes screw. The hardened tip digs into the head and the blows break any bonds in the threads while twisting the socket with massive torque. Read more about it here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_wrench).
Thanks for the help. :bowdown: Now just to adjust the clutch cable and I can ride again...in the snow (yay! Midwest blizzard).
:)
$3.49? are they crazy?
or what is s/h, like 20$
Quote from: indywar360 on December 03, 2006, 10:58:14 PM
$3.49? are they crazy?
or what is s/h, like 20$
Yeah, that's Harbor Freight. I'm not sure how they stay in business. Apparently it must be super cheap to have it manufactured in China and then shipped on a freighter where it gets trucked to my local store. Although, you get what you pay for and this tool actually worked. I cannot say to much about their torque wrenches. Note, though, that it was $8 in store, where I bought it.
Thanks. :)
I'm so close...
So, I've installed the pin into the signal generator rotor and crankshaft. However, the pin was a couple millimeters to big so I ground it down slightly. The pin was making the rotor pinch on one side against the metal ring on the signal generator when tightened down. This, when ran, made the rotor smoke as it was rubbing up against the ring. Thus, I ground down the pin and now the rotor does not get out of adjustment nor wobble to one side when bolted down. Hopefully that problem is solved.
Next, I adjusted the cable as per spec of 4 mm of free play. Following the instructions in the manual, the clutch was still dragging and would not go into gear easily. Thus the springs were not being pushed open far enough. So I again adjusted the adjustment screw and slowly turn it in until I felt resistance and then backed it out 1/4 turn. The bike no longer creeps (clutch drag) but it is hard to shift into neutral. IT WILL GO IN NEUTRAL, but it is temperamental. Now I went back and adjusted the screw some more this time screwed it in farther and the clutch was too loose and went threw the gears and neutral fine (while running). Thus, it must be the adjustment screw. I have since put it back to where it was but it still is temperamental about putting it in neutral.
Should I just keep playing with it? Any suggestions?
Thanks for your continued help. :) BTW, the bike runs great, except for being hard to put in neutral (while running, goes into neutral fine when off) and takes off like a ROCKET! :o
Quote from: davidcl on December 14, 2006, 02:11:52 PM
I'm so close...
Should I just keep playing with it? Any suggestions?
The clearance provided by the adjusting screw/locknut behind the oblong plate has a specific purpose which is to ensure the clutch pushrod isn't
riding the fragile, flat throwout bearing. It is not meant to reposition the friction zone up at the lever. There's some flexibility in the cable adjustment for that. Aside from the risk of brg failure, the extra pull you got by tightening up the clearance in the pushrod/release brg should have no different effect than could be had by tightening the cable slack.
It's a
wet clutch; there's going to be some drag on the clutch plates when the engine is running which in turn will lightly load the transmission creating some shifting friction and the resulting inertia can make it tricky to land on the neutral half-shift. Bear in mind it's
almost winter, and heavy oil can aggravate the condition. Let the engine warm-up more...wait for spring...go 5w-40 synth...allow for some rider break-in...I think it's OK. :cheers: