I have a few questions about kreeming a tank. First of all, I am not doing it myself. Second, the guy doing it works at a motorcycle shop and seems really honest. My question is how can I tell when I get it back if it's a decent job and how long should I wait after it's kreemed to put gas in and run it. I have a 95 gs with limited rust but my roommate has a 92 ninja with lots of rust. He will do them for $75 each including the kit. Is that a good deal? It seems like it with the amount of work and time to put in.
Thanks a bunch.
The subject of tank coatings has opinions that vary like the political spectrum, that said, it really depends on the experience of the person doing the job.
Ask for referrals of other customers.
One of our members, Srinath (in Charlotte BTW), has much experience with Kreem and recently experimented with POR-15 with mixed success.
The price is not bad, but the prep work is really where the quality of the installation comes into the equation.
Regardless, if you can stand it, wait a week or two before applying gasoline.
The longer the better IMHO.
If I ran a motorcycle company, my tanks would be made of the current auto tank plastic with a removable metal shell. That way if you have dents, etc, you don't encroach on the integrity of the fuel portion.
I can dream can't I? :)
I was actually looking into this as well. So it looks like the kit alone costs about 35 dollars so if the man is going to charge you 75 thats not that bad of a deal, but how well he will do is the question. I was planning on doing it myself and was wondering what others bought, the kit says it treats a 3 gallon gas tank and i haven't heard of anyone saying they bought 2 kits to treat the gs 5.3 gallon tank. I will probably buy 2 since thats what the manufacturer suggests, but does anyone remember if they only used the one kit and how well that did?
I used a Kreem Kit... I did loads of prep and treated as directed.. It didnt work all that well. It lasted about a year and then started comming off.. I then had giant floating kreem blobs cloging up my lines :2guns:
I have been looking for another solution but most pro jobs are expensive....
I havent tried the POR13 but based on my experience w/ Kreem, I would try the POR13 instead :thumb:
I read this article about a product that will get rid of the rust inside of tanks as well... it looked fairly interesting, wondering if anyone heard about this as well
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/rust_removal/
POR is good, it has to be a thin coating also. I dont like the "permanance" of it ... what permanent means to those clowns is that, if you drop acetone in it, it will chunk up and come loose ... and you have to get the chunks out. Kreem dissolves and comes out all by itself. Neither of the 2 will stand up to paint remover ... of course neither will the outside paint.
Scott_PAGS - Kreem may come loose with spray type carb cleaner.
I'd do a kreem job for $50 if anyone wants. It does include material and labor etc ... but of course shipping isn't included ... I can do a POR also for that same $50 but I trust kreem more than POR at this point. If the tank is badly rusted, it may blow a hole in the acid treat process and that = trouble.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: GuyLeDouche on November 13, 2006, 01:25:09 PM
I read this article about a product that will get rid of the rust inside of tanks as well... it looked fairly interesting, wondering if anyone heard about this as well
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/rust_removal/
Oh yea ... if its non toxic why is that dude wearing a Hazmat suit while pressure washing the tank ...
Anyway, "The treated metal will retain a degree of rust protection as long as it doesn't come into contact with water." - WTF ... there is all sorts of crap in gasoline - water not just from condensation, alcohol, MTBE, FART ...
Cool.
Srinath.
If your tank is rusty Stay away from Kreem.Pleasedon't use Kreem.Did I mention not to use Kreem. :laugh: Splurge for the Por 15 it's just a little moreexpensive but in the log run it will be a lot better.The Kreem even if done orrectly will eventually peal loose and Clog things up.
If you want to remove the rust and not mess with Lining the tank go to Auto one and Pick up some evaporust.Take the tank to the Car wash and rinse it very well to get all of the gas residue out.Cap the tank off with the Cap on it and the Petcock Closed.You may also want too plug the Vent hose because you will be Sloshing the Evaporust around.One Quart will do the job but you will have to slosh it around several time a day for it to reach all of the rust ad do it's Job.2 Quarts will be better.It is Reuseable many times before losing it's potency. :thumb:
Thanks for all the imput guys... I know I can ask anything around here and get straight up answers-not something I can get from some people.
Thanks again.
Your Quite welcome. :thumb: And Don't Pay Attention to the Mistakes in my Previous Post I've got a Really Sorry expensive Virtually Indestructable Key board and it's giving me Carpel Tunnel.
Quote from: Jughead on November 13, 2006, 10:55:18 PM
If your tank is rusty Stay away from Kreem.Pleasedon't use Kreem.Did I mention not to use Kreem. :laugh: Splurge for the Por 15 it's just a little moreexpensive but in the log run it will be a lot better.The Kreem even if done orrectly will eventually peal loose and Clog things up.
If you want to remove the rust and not mess with Lining the tank go to Auto one and Pick up some evaporust.Take the tank to the Car wash and rinse it very well to get all of the gas residue out.Cap the tank off with the Cap on it and the Petcock Closed.You may also want too plug the Vent hose because you will be Sloshing the Evaporust around.One Quart will do the job but you will have to slosh it around several time a day for it to reach all of the rust ad do it's Job.2 Quarts will be better.It is Reuseable many times before losing it's potency. :thumb:
Yea I have seen that too, in fact I have seen it in carbs ...
But I'll guarantee you, I do it, it will not come off, and it will not chunk up or whatever. The test is ... scratch it with a screw driver, you should see a line in the kreem about the width of the tip if the screwdriver, if it takes off a few chunks or chips ... its too thick. Typically if you can see it, its too thick. It should be a veil like appearance on the shiny clean etched metal. The welds typically get a bit thicker due to the fact that they act as a channel and sorta trap the thing a bit more. That is OK, the welds are usually where it doesn't peel anyway. i've done a few tanks for people here, ask them.
Cool.
Srinath.