I'm planing on replacing my clutch and so I am gathering all that I hope I will need to do it (oil, gasket, friction plates, steel plates, and springs). However, I was going over the procedure in my Clymer manual and it says that I will need a Clutch Holding Tool (essentially a clutch steel plate with a rod welded to it). The tool is $170 dollars or I could buy an extra plate and weld a rod to it. Has anyone ever needed this when replacing your clutch (did you get away with it)? And if I am just replacing the plates and God for bid I don't have to replace anything else, do I really need the tool as I won't be removing the clutch hub nut to get at the plates?
Thanks for any help.
i think you can just put the bike in gear or hit the rear brake when you need to take the clutch disks out
The brake/gear thing worked great on my GS, never needed the tool.
You can also improvise a holding tool with two bent strips of steel joined by a screw and nut. Kind of a n Y with the upper two ends bent to match two gaps of the clutch cage.
I used the rear brake. No biggie.
Hi there,
Here's another method...
Put a thick -- 1/4 inch or so thick -- piece of leather in between the two gears so they jam onto the thick leather as you turn the nut to lossen it. Easy and no harm to the gears.
Good luck,
Todd
A penny Works pretty good too. :thumb:
I have a full clutch that I will sell out of my 89 that only has 5500 original Miles. ;)Clutch worksed just like a brand new one
If your clutch wears out, is there any reason to replace the steel plates? It's my understanding that if they're not warped or grooved, or worn down past the limit they can be lightly scuffed up and reused. Obviously the friction plates need to be replaced and the springs are a good idea too, but I bet you can save some money and reuse the steel plates.
Is you clutch just starting to slip or are there other problems with it?
I bought the steel plates just to not be sorry when I have the entire thing apart and notice they need to be replaced. This is my only ride so down time has to be minimal. The steel plates are about $5 a piece on Ron Ayers and I only need 6 or them so I figured why not. I bought an extra one and will weld two rods to it if needed. Thanks for the home grown garage mechanic tips, always appreciated. :thumb:
Did the bike only have 5,500 miles on it? Or was that just the mileage on the clutch? I ask because my '90 has some 24,000~ miles on it and maybe I should be lucky that I'm only replacing the clutch. I'll keep the offer in mind in case I need the pressure plate or primary drive gear or hub.
Total cost for: 1 gasket, 6 springs, 7 steel plates, and 7 friction plates = $130. I got the friction plates off of Ebay but bought the rest OEM on Ron Ayers.
Thanks. :)
That was the total miles on the Whole Bike.Usually the Steel plates are OK unless they get Hot and Warp.Usually when that happens the Clutch Doesn't release right.
i need to resurrect this old thread.
i think i may need to replace the clutch.
can someone tell me if i have all of the right parts listed here:
Drive Plates x7 (or can these be reused?)
Clutch disks x6
Fluid (? Not sure what to get)
Springs (the online catalog shows these as part of the entire primary gear as'y)
is this all i need?
As was said earlier in the post, usually you can reuse the drive plates unless they are warped, just lightly scuff them up with 100 grit. The friction disks obviously need to be replaced and the springs usually should be replaced, but you may be able to test them to see if they are reusable, but that's probally not worth the trouble. There is no clutch fluid, it's lubricated in engine oil, and actuated by a cable.
I'm not sure if the manual mentions this or not but I think it's a good idea to let the friction plates soak in motor oil for a day or so before installing them, this will help it engage smoother and will reqiure less inital adjustment after the first few hundred miles.
Good luck :cheers:
Here's what I do When replacing clutch plates.
1) Lean bike against something (no need to drain oil)
2) remove case and remove bolts holding clutch springs.
Clutch spring bolts don't take much effort to break loose. I use a 10mm T-handle wrench.
3) Pull the pressure plate off and remove all the clutch discs.
4) Install new discs.
Soak friction discs in same oil you'll run for 5-10 minutes (longer soaking not beneficial)
Start with a friction disc first then metal/friction/metal/etc. ending with a friction disc.
5) Put pressure plate on, then install springs and bolts.
Just snug the bolts down, they don't require much torqueing.
6) install side case and put bike back on stand. no oil required :icon_mrgreen:
The only reason you would need a clutch holder tool is to remove the big nut on the clutch hub.
Only necessary for splitting cases or replacing hub.
In that case use an old metal plate to weld on instead of the extra new plate :icon_mrgreen:
On my bikes I use a Barnett clutch kit for the SV 650
TM-34 complete clutch kit (7 friction, 6 metal and stronger springs)
The springs are longer but work just fine. Does require more effort on lever though.
so, by springs, you mean the ones attached to the primary drive?