Do you guys find that the needle torque wrenches are accurate enough for working on these bikes, including putting an engine back together... or would you recommend a click type torque wrench instead?
Thanks
Needle type torque wrenches can be very inaccurate and are impossible to calibrate, use what the professionals use and go with the click type.
Quote from: sledge on November 20, 2006, 04:00:05 AM
Needle type torque wrenches can be very inaccurate and are impossible to calibrate, use what the professionals use and go with the click type.
I've always heard the opposite: The beam-type models are very accurate provided you can see the scale clearly and, as long as the needle indicates - 0 - at rest, they stay calibrated.
Unless you spend over $100 on a quality clicker wrench you're better off with a beam-type.
I've been using the beam type torque wrenches for about six decades now. :laugh: Works for me.
Quality schmuality... j/k Mandres
I use the needle type cause my daddy used a needle type in the 60's and his daddy used a needle type in the 40's.
I have used a click type but for some reason it doesn't feel right to me.
I have seen pro's use them to assemble egines and they sure cut down on assembly time. You can preset the torque you want and just tighen each bolt until you hear the click.
but for me I will stick with the needle.
Yea, the click type is definitely faster. Also easier to use when you're on your back under a car or stretched out trying to hold a wrench steady on the bolt head. I hear good things about the SK clicker models: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190049298965&category=42265 . They're usa made and a lot cheaper than snap-on. If I didn't already have a good beam-type I would pick up one of those. The $25 Harbor Freight specials aren't very highly regarded.
KD tools Makes some really Great Clicker types.If you check Ebay you'll find some Good Deals on them.I've just never cared for the Beam Type.
From what I heard Harbor freight's quality is sub-par compared to national brands like snap on and craftsman, for nearly all the products they sell. I don't know from first hand experience though.
I go with Craftsman 9 times outta 10, unless they do not offer the lifetime guarantee for that particular Item. I can't count how many times I have returned tools to Sears and got a free replacement. I still buy craftsman tools at flea markets just to take them to sears for a new one.
Hi there,
I own both clicker (Sears Craftsman) and beam type torque wrenches (Craftsman again) and always use the more accurate clicker wrenches. They are often on sale at Sears for great prices, including right now I believe. I own a 0-250 foot-pounds torque wrench and a 0-600 inch-pound wrench. I use them both a lot and am very happy with them.
Stay away from the cheap brands and keep the wrenches in their protective plastic cases.
Good luck,
Todd
The beam type stays accurate thorughout it's life.
It just snaps when it gets to the end of it's life.
Click type, you never know.
Either way you have to use a little common sense
and make sure to pay attention when you torque
things down.
I think we have the ingredients of a new war. Oil war, octane war, wrench war....
I think ill have to go with the beam type... I want to use it for my car also (need to replace a cam plug) but it requires 7ftlb torque. All of the clickers I've seen start at 10ft/lb.. cant find one under that.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Ace Hardware has the clicker type under 10 ft lb. There are also inch pound torque wrenches out there too. I love the quality of my Ace wrench as well as my Home Depot Husky brand clicker too.
Chilly
Quote from: facepants on November 20, 2006, 12:19:29 PM
I think ill have to go with the beam type... I want to use it for my car also (need to replace a cam plug) but it requires 7ftlb torque. All of the clickers I've seen start at 10ft/lb.. cant find one under that.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
You'll need to go with a In/lb Wrench and Convert to Ft/lb 12in/lb = 1 Ft/Lb
Hi again,
Jughead has it exactly right.
That's why I have both inch-pounds and foot-pound clicker wrenches and bean typ wrenches -- to be able to cover a wider range of torque settings.
Use the inch-pound wrench and convert to foot-pounds -- that's how you can torque low-torque fasteners accurately.
yours,
Todd
Facepants?
You wont get the definative answer in here, too many differing opinions and views. Look up Torque wrench on Wikipedia. It gives all the pros and cons.
i am an ase curtified auto tech and the click type's are the best and stay accurate if you set it down to its lowest setting when you are done with it so it has no stress on it when you are not working with it.
I got my torque wrench from Autozone for like $11. It's the needle type except it never worked properly. I tried to torque my rear axle and it was nearly impossible to turn (would have stripped it) and it still read zero torque. Also my wrench only has
Meter Kilograms and Foot-Pounds......Haynes lists rear axle torque as 60N. A Newton is 1 kg * m^2..... Did they mislabel my wrench? Why then does the Meter Kilograms only go up to 20. like 20 Meter Kilograms is equal to 140 Foot-Pounds on the scale...HELP...ANYONE?! :dunno_white:
It sounds like you need to buy a new wrench.
Chilly
Having used and owned a number of torque wrenches as an aircraft mechanic, here are a few things you should know:
1) A clicker-type wrench is several orders of magnitude more accurate than a beam-type and is the best for your application. Plus, you don't have to worry about all the errors involved in reading one. I relegate beam-types to heavy equipment repair. Direct-reading wrenches are best used for determining shaft and fastener drag, not fastener pre-load.
2) A torque wrench is an instrument, buy a good one. My favorite brand is Sturtevant Richmont out of Chicago. They're made in America, very accurate and reasonably priced. Craftsman used to sell them for $10 less than direct. See www.srtorque.com.
3) A cheap instrument is worse than no instrument at all.
4) A torque wrench is generally certified to be within calibration from 20% to 100% scale reading. Try to stay within the middle of the range.
5) A torque wrench must be used in only one direction, so you should have a separate wrench for left-handed fasteners. DO NOT use a torque wrench to break hardware loose.
6) Calibrate once a year without fail. An uncalibrated wrench is worse than none at all. If you drop it, send it in for calibration.
If you spend a little money and buy a good torque wrench now it will save you many stripped fasteners later. It is one of the few tools that will stay with you throughout your life.
But, what if you are looking for break-away torque?
For instance, the break-away torque of my cylinder head nuts is over 75ft-lbs (as my break-away clicker-type torque wrench only goes up to 75ft-lbs).
Quote from: tussey on November 20, 2006, 04:18:11 PMAlso my wrench only has Meter Kilograms and Foot-Pounds......Haynes lists rear axle torque as 60N. A Newton is 1 kg * m^2..... Did they mislabel my wrench? Why then does the Meter Kilograms only go up to 20. like 20 Meter Kilograms is equal to 140 Foot-Pounds on the scale...HELP...ANYONE?! :dunno_white:
Using kg as a force unit is not admissible from a physicists POV, but it's done all the time. It's meant to be equal to the weigt of 1 kg of mass. Thus equal to 9.81 N, or roughly 10 N. Just shift the decimal point on your Wrench over to the right by one digit and you have Nm.
(and one N actually is 1 kg m / s^2, the force that accelerates 1 kg with an acceleration of 1 m/s^2. g, acceleration of earth's gravity, is 9.81 m/s^2; that's where the above conversion factor comes from.)
i found a nice pro-am clicker wrench at napa for around 30 dollars if you decide to go that route
Nice. I'm shopping for a torque wrench tomorrow. Good info in these old threads. :thumb:
hmm, whats the book says "Nm". How's that convert to pounds.
To convert Nm to lb/ft, multiply the figure by 0.7376
To convert lb/ft to Nm, multiply the figure by 1.3558.
Or you can use an on-line calculator like this one......
http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/torque