Pull your Plug Caps and Either screw the end of the Plug Cap out and Ditch the resistor and Cut a piece of Copper Household Electrical Wire to replace it or Buy a set of Non Resistor Caps.If your using Resistor Sparkplugs with the Stock Plug Caps your just Doubling the resistance.With my Years of Experience I have had Nothing but problems with Resistor Caps Building up way too much Resistance and Leaving me Stranded.This was Mostly with NGK Resistor Caps (Non Resistor caps are OK).Curiosity got the best of me tonight and I pulled one of the Caps off of my GS to Inspect it and the Wire.When I looked in the end where the Terminal slips onto the Plug Stud I noticed that it was Slotted for Removal.Yeap Sure Enough there is a Resistor in there. :icon_confused:
The reason for my Curiosity is that the Engine that I tore down has some Carbon Build up on the Piston tops and Combustion Chamber/Valves.There is No Signs of Oil Blow By past the rings,,Leaky Head Gasket or Oil past the Valve seals.This means that it had to running Rich or the Owner Lugged it Aroung really Easy without Blowing the Soot out of it.well the carbs had the Original (I think) Jets from the Factory and should have been Running Lean.It Probably was to a Certain Degree.When I first bought the Bike I pulled the Plugs and Checked to make sure it had Spark before I started it.yes it had Spark but it wasn't a Nice Big Blue Spark.It was a Nice Small Orange Spark.The Reason? Well Resistor caps AND NGK Resistor Plugs.The Bike wasn't getting enough of a Spark to make a Nice Clean Burn. :thumb:
let's start with the basics, what are resistor caps?
Resistor Caps are used instead of Resistor Plugs to cut down on Radio Interference and to Produce a Slighty Hotter Spark.After Many Miles the resistor in the Cap Builds up more resistance than came Originally from the factory.I can Post a picture later this evening to show what I am talking About.If you want to check it out Unscrew one of the Plug Caps off of your Bike, pull the Rubber Boot off that goes down on the Spark Plug and get a Straight Slot Screw Driver and Turn the Brass Terminal out.When it comes out there will be a Small Ceramic coated Tube that will come out with Metal Showing on each end.
OK here's a Picture. :thumb:
(http://star.walagata.com/w/jughead/plug_cap.jpg)
so if we take out the resistor we get a hotter spark.... what are the drawbacks :dunno_white:
Hi there,
The resistor helps nothing for the bike.
The bike is fine without them, and in fact may perform better without them.
The resistors reduce or eliminate radiowave interference in passing cars and nearby homes, etc.
That's the only reason resistors are used -- to keep radio and TV signals from going crazy when a motorized vehicle passes by.
So not to worry!
Yours,
Todd
so that thing is inside the plug wire boot? i never knew that! i'll take a look.
I'll have to take a look at this, Maybe this could help some of the problems I've been having. My bike is still running heavy on the left cylinder - carb adjustements float level, etc are IDENTICAL between the carbs but I'm still getting carbon fouling on my right plug, If i'm getting an incomplete burn due to weak spark I figured this could explain some of that fouling. The plugs are new so i was gonna clean em up again and swap the wires/coils and see if the problem moved with the coil and wire.
where are the coil packs on our bikes? are they the black rectangular boxes mounted on each side of the frame from the battery?
OK spark troubles - Toss the damn NGK's in the ditch across the street. If you do not have a ditch across the street, send it to the srinath, and he will toss them in the ditch across his street for you.
Rejet, put Autolites (always rich black mofo) or champions and run it. Starting troubles are usually not spark plug related, it will not ever ever start ... and it will always seem to start but never do ...
Cool.
Srinath.