Who thought using those cheap brass(ish?) screws on the carbs was a good idea, I swear I'll hit him in the face.
Finally took the carbs apart, after they sat for 4 months with stale gas in them. Guess what? Not a SIGN of varnish, and itty bitty sparkles of rust, and that's it. They probably would have run just fine. Oh well. I took one side apart, cleaned it, put it back together. Started the second side about 5 minutes ago. 3 of the screws came out fine. One is stripped. Now I'm looking for a dremel or other tool with which to cut a slot in it so that I can use a flathead to take it out. I don't have an impact wrench (the one you hit with a hammer) and the local advance auto doesn't sell em, so I couldn't get one there.
Took the battery to Advance Auto, they charged it on a trickle charger for FREE! How cool is that?
Tomorrow, the carbs go back in (thank GOD I labeled all the hoses), the forks come off, and the '89 clipons go on, as well as finishing up the seat cowl from cafeboy, along with pictures for y'all.
Only thing I wish I'd done differently? Wish I had bought the stuff to rejet the carbs. Oh well, live and learn.
Next week, new(ish) chain from Alpha, hopefully get a new tire for the front, then eventually get my new rim from lee (onefastgs500), then polish the lips on both rims. I think it'll be badass.
Quick question: The seat cowl covers the rear of the seat, making it look like a single seat. I don't know if I should paint it black or silver? The black would match the tank/seat, the silver would match the tail plastics. Suggestions?
Thanks.
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on January 09, 2007, 05:03:13 PM
Quick question: The seat cowl covers the rear of the seat, making it look like a single seat. I don't know if I should paint it black or silver? The black would match the tank/seat, the silver would match the tail plastics. Suggestions?
Thanks.
Silver...also, in regards to the impact drivers, get one as soon as you can find one. Even the cheap ones from harbor freight are worth it.
I beleive those cheep brass screws are in a lot of carbs. my 71 ford had them when I rebuilt its carb. but I have every screw driver you could possibly image in the world so I never have to much of a problem with them stripping or the heads mangling on them. Brass is good for expanding and contracting with the metal very well I know that is why we use brass on all our oxy fitings on our torches, very good connections. That is atleast one reason why i think they would use it.
Another set of screws to be careful of are the one's holding the front brake reservoir cover on. They're hard as a diamond but soft as butter if that makes sense. I had trouble with one on my GS. I got a "damaged screw remover" from Sears and managed to get it out. I just ruined a good spare master cylinder for my FZR600 trying to remove a seized screw. I didn't have any trouble with my GS carb screws but they are extremely soft.
Take a small vice to them before you attack them with the screw driver.
I didn't even try to take them out with a screwdriver/impact wrench. I just hit them with a drill and cut out the middle-man.
took maybe 5 minutes for both carbs.
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on January 09, 2007, 05:03:13 PM
Who thought using those cheap brass(ish?) screws on the carbs was a good idea, I swear I'll hit him in the face.
Do not blame Suzuki since Mikuni made the carbs.
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on January 09, 2007, 05:03:13 PM
Quick question: The seat cowl covers the rear of the seat, making it look like a single seat. I don't know if I should paint it black or silver? The black would match the tank/seat, the silver would match the tail plastics. Suggestions?
If it was black like the seat, why even have it? Silver....so it would actually look like a solo tail.
Needle nose vice grips are your friend!
Mine came right out...all 8 of em
+1 for silver
I've tried the vice grips.. still no luck, might need an ez out.
I think I'll swap this can of black spraypaint for silver tomorrow. It'll be tough finding something to match the flake silver of the '06 plastics, but I'll see what i can do.
Take your Screwdriver and Put the Drive end into the Screw and Tap the Handle with a Hammer a Few Times.If all else Fails Drill the head off and take the Float Bowl off and then you should have enough of a Surface to turn it out with a Set of Vice grips.More than Likely it isn't the Threads Holding.Like Usual it's the head or lock Washer thats Doing it.
yeah, silver for sure...
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on January 09, 2007, 09:16:21 PM
I've tried the vice grips.. still no luck, might need an ez out.
I think I'll swap this can of black spraypaint for silver tomorrow. It'll be tough finding something to match the flake silver of the '06 plastics, but I'll see what i can do.
So you mean to tell me that you got hold of the screw with a vice, turned it left, and it didn't move? Make a video of it.
Yeah and make a video of something else you've done already too..... ?
You cant get a good hold of it with a vice gripper, its in a freaking crevise and heck its not brass, its gold anodised steel.
I have seen the best results from leftie drills followed by slitting their head with a 1/2 used dremel cut off wheel (as they get smaller when wearing out, I take it off and save it ... and using a screwdriver to get it off. It loosens the grip i has cot the head is not cut in 1/2 and the head sorta folds on itself.
Cool.
Srinath.
I just held the carbs in my hand, used a nice, fat screwdriver, pushed down hard and was easly able to pop them and loosen them with ease. Tightening them was even easier.
Then I figured it would be a good idea to get the steel allen screws because I would no doubt be going back into the carbs later.....
I stripped the carb body tightening them by hand.... be careful whatever you do.
Tighten with your finger tips only using the short end of the allen wrench for gripping. Not with your breaker bar with a pipe over it.
BTW ... its worth mentioning that in the rest of the english speaking world, they are allen keys not wrenches. Wrench implies that its big and needs to by muscled in ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Ahem....I beg to differ, the correct term is Hexagonal or Hex keys. Allen is a brand name, I think its the name of the inventor of the fastenings. Its like calling all vacuum cleaners a Hoover or all 4WDs a Jeep......but I suppose it doesnt matter.
Someone mentioned using an Impact driver.....it would be a mistake. The light cast aluminium based alloy the carbs are made from is very brittle and it will more than likely crack if you used an ID on it, if you do choose to go down this road make sure the underside is supported on something to absorb the force, like a block of wood. You might have rounded it off by using the wrong type/size of screwdriver so make sure the tool you use is a good and positive fit in the screwhead.
Japanese screw heads are supposed to be different from everyone else. They call it JIS, or Japanese Industrial Standard. You'll notice it more on a philips head screw than a slotted screw(jet) such as in our carbs. That's probably why I had trouble getting a screwdriver to grip the screws on the front brake reservoir.