Ok, I've rejetted my 2001. Wileyco k and n, 22.5 65 150, 3washers, screws at 3 turns.
Any thing past 1/8-1/4 throttle she's fine, pulls great. Its a little surgey at 1/8-1/4 throttle. I went up from 20 pilots to the 22.5' and that helped a lot. She's still a Buddha Loves You to start...when cold.
Any ideas???
Valves are past time for adj, goes in on thursday for that. Could that be me problem? What are tight valve symptoms?
It will spit out of the carb when cold, just a little spit, but it happens every now and then, only when cold.
The air screw on the right carb kills the bike when closed, the left air screw doesn't kill the bike but makes it rough when closed, is that any thing?
The float level is slightly high, about and 1/8 above the bowl seem. But I really don't wanna mess with the levels, I'm scared, don't know how to do it...
T.I.A
What's ya'll think?
Sounds lean at idle. I'd turn the idle mixture screws out about 3 turns and see if that helps.
-T.
Does it hesitate?
No, no hesitation, maybe if it freezen and I don't let it warm up, but no.
I'm at 3 turns out on both screws... That's what I thought Turd, so I went from a 20pilot to the 22.5, its better, kinda. Its the hard to start thing that's killing me!
I just put another set of plugs in it, and it fired right up. Mind you its 59 degrees outside.
With the choke half on, not warmed up at all I checked the new pluga and they look rich, but I'd expect that. I fired it up, let it idle for 30 seconds and pulled em.
I still fall back to wondering about the valve(s), it has 7500 miles on it and the p.o can't remember if they were every done.
But other then starting and 1/8 throttle she FLYS!
:dunno:
Until you get the floats adjusted and the valves adjusted, I can't think of anything else.
Scratch, I'm hopeful its just a valve adjustment. Dunno, I'll find out thursday. The floats aren't that high.. I'll do that next, I guess, seems as if floats would affect other throttle ranges?
What are the symptoms of tight valves?
Spitting out the carb would be one indicator. An incomplete sealing of the valve would give you a kind of hesitation (like lean) at low rpms under load. At higher rpms, the other cylinder can mask the hesitation, or the valve may actually seal at those higher rpms/temperatures. Racer's want their intake valves tight to maximize the air/fuel charge.
I still think your float levels are too high. There is a certain point where the gas will just trickle down the carb boot into the intake, and the level appears the same, and if the valve isn't shut, it just fills up the cylinder (and leaks past the rings, into the oil). Otherwise, if the the valve isn't open, the gas just pools on top of the valve, until the engine is started, resulting in a super-rich/flooded cylinder.
And that would cause a spit or a pop, could even cause a backfire huh? !
Ok , have any good advice on how to change it? Maybe a link?
So the tang needs bend up? That drops the float, and lowers the level? How much do I drop it?
Thanx for the advice
Valves being tight can make it hard to start. They first make it hard to keep running once you do start it. The next stage past it is hard to start. The final stage is where they run like sheite ... and after that they burn out. If it was once easy to start but hard to keep running from 5 seconds after startup to 5 mins after start up ... that = valves being tight.
Now you may have had the old air filter in and had it work OK and hence missed step 1 ... but yea tight valves can be hard to start.
Cool.
Srinath.
I thought I read that in a previous thread... She's only sketchy the 1st 5 seconds, then I'm fine... Maybe valve tight and float? I'm thinking check the valves and then the floats. If I don't have to lower the float I'm gunna leave it alone... Sound good?
Once again, this site is a wealth of info, thanx guys!