I plan to take the bike almost completely apart in the next 2 months. I need some expert guidance on parts and tools to make the job easy. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Here are the areas that need attention:
Brake lines - Are stainless braided lines worth it? Suggestions?
Valve job - I probably can't do this myself? Know anyone reputable and reasonable?
Exhaust - What's the best value for additional power?
Front forks - is the Katana upgrade worth it? At the very least I think I need new fork tubes since mine are pitted and leaking.
Thanks and help me get Suzie back on the road!
Quote from: baco99 on January 31, 2007, 06:49:44 AM
Valve job - I probably can't do this myself? Know anyone reputable and reasonable?
You mean a valve inspection? Why can't you do it? It's much easier than tearing apart your bike.
i guess the truth is that i don't know what it need.
it's hard-starting, idle races when warm regardless of position of idler screw. i've rebuilt the carbs and the fuel petcock, and the thing still doesn't start right or run smoothly. i want to get this to "trouble-free" mode without spending a fortune. but if i have to scrap the bike and get a different one, i will.
i just don't know what to look for and the Haynes manual is like reading palms.
Checking valves described in great detail in the GS500 Wiki - http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Maintenance/RoutineMaintenance (http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Maintenance/RoutineMaintenance) . You need a feeler gauge with 0.03mm - 0.1mm. If you need shims replaced you'll need a shim tool ($18, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALVE-SHIM-TOOL-FOR-SUZUKI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQihZ006QQitemZ160039607683QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALVE-SHIM-TOOL-FOR-SUZUKI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQihZ006QQitemZ160039607683QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V).
It's been discussed many times. Kerry made a nice video guide about it. See Wiki. Good luck man!
idle races when warm regardless of position of idler screw.
OK that right there Tells you that Either your Pilot Circuit is still Plugged OR you have an Air leak after it gets warmed up.To find out if it is an Air leak warm the Bike up and Spray WD40 around the Carb Boots and the Seam around the Cylinder and head.If there is a Change in Your Idle you've found your leak.
Sometimes Carbs Are a Real PITA even if you've Cleaned them until they look Brand New and Rebuilt them.Believe me I've Messed with More Carbs than An Has Killed Kittens.I still have a Set of keihins off of a Honda CB750 that I've went thru Half a Dozen times and I would like to take a Sledge Hammer to them.I Got to the Point of Thinking of Commiting Suicide because of taking all four of those Carbs off of the Rack and Soaking them Individually So many times.Lets see 4 Carbs X 6 Times that is Equal to Cleaning 24 Carbs.Soaking 1 Carb per day.Well thats 24 Damn Days not Counting Reassembly.That Usually takes a Full day to try to get all of the Springs,Links,Shafts and Slides all back into working Order.So I have Close to a Solid Month in Carb Cleaning and the Bike Won't even make a Stutter without Ether. :mad: :mad: :mad:
what's a pilot circuit?
OK then ... what are you doing the other 18 hours of the day ... O0
OK fine send me the carbs ... I'll bet you're lean or sucking air.
The rest wont take you but hour or 3. Front forks - if serious about katana ... get Dgyver to make you a set of those spacers he has.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: baco99 on January 31, 2007, 07:26:47 PM
what's a pilot circuit?
OK your Pilot Circuit in your Carbs is the Easiest to get Plugged up.They are what Controls your Gas Flow for Idle-1/4 Throttle.The Piot Circuit Also Helps wiith the Main Circuit up to I believe 1/2 Throttle then the Main Circuit Takes over from 1/2 Throttle to WFO.
Everyone that Doesn't Know how a Carburator works Please Read this Online Manual.Then after you get Done Go back to the Beginning and read it Again.Then Repeat the Above a few More times. :icon_lol: :icon_lol: I know it's a Manual for a Completely Different type of Carb that is on your GS but it is the Same Basic Principle as what you are Working on.Professor Jug Expects this Link to be Posted Somewhere For Noob Carb Mechanics to Read.There Should Also Be a Question And Answer Session tomorrow Night About this Time since the Weather is Going to be Bad and Unless you Have a Snowmobile you'll have a Good reason to be Stuck in front of the Computer. :flipoff: :flipoff:
http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf (http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/vmmanual.pdf)
When Everyone Gets thru Reading the VM uning Manual Please Watch the Following Suzuki Mechanic Training Video.Yes It's Boring but yes it's what your Friendly Neighborhood Suzuki Mechanic Watched before he Started Cleaning Your Carbs.
Here is the Low Quality Vid for Dial up Users http://andersonvintageparts.com/stv/suzukicarbcleaninglow.wmv (http://andersonvintageparts.com/stv/suzukicarbcleaninglow.wmv)
and Here Is the Vid for you High Speed Users
http://andersonvintageparts.com/stv/suzukicarbcleaninghi.wmv (http://andersonvintageparts.com/stv/suzukicarbcleaninghi.wmv)
When you get Done (Here Comes the Plug) Visit www.andersonvintageparts.com (http://www.andersonvintageparts.com) and Have a Look Around for any NOS Parts you might need.The guy Did Put the Videos Up and is Paying for the Space for Everyone to use.Right Now he is Having trouble with Hosting all of his Parts on that site without it Crashing but you may still be able to find Something Useful that he has in stock.
nice thanks for the links!
i've dealt with carbs before, but nothing as complicated as these Mikunis. I've worked on VWs, MGs, and Mercedes. it seems that all these needles are a result of the gas being vacuum fed and not "pumped" like on a car. typically I'm used to seeing 2 sets of needles, one for idle and one for throttle. the fuel is set based on the location of the float, and the rate of fuel is set by some vacuum lines: either idle only, or throttle only, or some combination of both. when i took the Mikunis apart (which i've done twice) i was amazed at all the channels and adjustments available -- more room for error in my opinion.
i'd be the first to buy a fuel pump and a reliable, less-finicky set of carbs for this bike. like a weber or something.
or fuel injection.
Actually they are Fairly Simple.With Mikuni's the Best Carb cleaners if you Have the Patients to Completely Dismantle them would be Vinegar or Berrymans Chem Dip.Both work Very well as long as the Tempurature is Above 70-75 Degrees. :thumb: With Vinegar you can't soak the Steel Parts and with Berrymans you can't soak the Rubber or Plastic Parts.
like i said, much easier with cars.