I opened up my GS to do a clutch repair and noticed metal "ozzing" out from behind the bolt and washer of the crank balancer. I removed the bolt and washer and took a picture (see attached). The remaining bearing can be slide out and I took another picture (see attached). Basically what I would like to know, is the motor done or can I replace the bearings and have everything alright? Am I looking at a new crank case? new motor or a rebuild of this one? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Link to pics http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/gswingnut/bikes005.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u24/gswingnut/bikes002.jpg
post on a photobucket account (www.photobucket.com) and the link us.
Looks Better than What Mine Did.My top Bearing on the Washer Side was on the Bottom under the Bottom Bearing.Tear it down and Check the Case Surface for A lot of Wear.As Long as you don'thave Aluminum Shavings in your Oil (On top of the Oil Pan) you should be OK.
I would Rant on Suzuki's Poor Design on this but I won't. :laugh: :laugh: OK they should have Balance out the Crank or Installed Roller Bearings one. :mad: :mad:
Thanks Jughead, I'm going to pull the engine this weekend and see how things look, wish me luck!!! Are there any tricks or shortcuts that can be passed on to make this a little smoother?
When you get the balancer shaft out its important you check the journals for wear. O/D should be between 32.000 and 31.984mm without any noticable scoring on the surfaces. Any less than this and its toast. Its equally important you check the oil feed galleries in the casing that supply the bearings and make sure they are not clogged up.
There's Also a Raised Area on the Journal on Each end of the Counterbalance Shaft that holds the Shaft into the Groove of the Bearings.Do Some measuring and see if it is Egg Shaped.The Raised Part of Mine was Worn away halfway around on one end. :mad:
After the motor is out and on the bench (or floor :icon_mrgreen:) take the cam cover off and remove the cams.
This will allow the cam chain to hang free. Then turn the motor bottom up. You can split the cases without removing the head and cylinders. You can unbolt the rod caps and pull the crank if needed.
The counterbalancer has a replaceable sleeve on the clutch side under the bolt an washer. As long as the other end of CB is good, you can replace the sleeve and re-use the CB.
If the cases are buggered up where the bearings fit, you'll need new cases.
The culprit for spun CB bearings is usually the oil passages clogged with gasket sealer after the side cases were removed and put back on. Any clutch replacement lately :dunno_white:?
Or if the cases are buggerd, send the crank,pistons,rods,pins,and NEW rings to falicon to get reballenced, thred the oil ports for 6m bolt and plug the oil gally for the CBshaft, lay the old CBshaft bearings back in the case (keeps the threaded plug from backing out) and reassemble the old cases. figure buying another engine for parts could run between 200-500 (might get lucky and find one cheaper) ballenceing the crank was 210.$ +SH 2 years ago.
with the loss of the CB shaft a few more hp will make it to the wheel and you will not have to worry about the CB bearings ever again.
Just a question regarding the cam chain. Why do I need to remove the cams first? does the chain link around the balancer as well? I haven't openned it up yet and my shop manual hasn't arrived yet (ebay). Can it be done without the removal of the cams? BTW how did you know I would be working on the floor :icon_confused:?
yeah but while you have the cases split you should check on the crank bearings too. for that the crank needs to come out needing the cams removed first
Correctomundo O0
You can't remove the crankshaft if the cam chain is still on the cam sprockets. Therefore, cams must be removed.
Also make sure you don't lose the 2 small square thingamabobs that hold the cam chain guide in place when the cases are split.
The only "special tool" you'll need to split the cases is a clutch holder tool.
I've clamped a pair of vise grips on a metal clutch plate and slid it into the clutch basket with the vise grips in a slot on the outer basket. Then wedge a penny in the gears between the crank and clutch basket.
This will enable you to remove and re-install the nut (27mm socket) holding the clutch basket on (40 ft lbs torque).
And when you pull the shift shaft out, the spring will pop off. Just make sure it goes back on the shaft with the spring arms spread apart so they are straight up. Study it's position before you pull the shaft.
You'll also need an impact screwdriver for the 3 screws holding the plate under the clutch basket. :cheers:
Bob B, there is also the penny trick to remove and reinstall the clutch basket,
copper penny wedged between the teeth of the crank and clutch basket gear will bind the works up without hurting the gears. to tighten everything up use the same penny on oposite side is all.
I thought I mentioned that :cookoo: :laugh:
Alright, engine is on the bench, all bolts are removed But I cannot get the crank case to crack. I don't want to hit it too hard for fear of smashing a hole in it. Any suggestions? (Clutch basket and everything has been removed, I even found the two bolts in the oil pan) BTW things aren't looking good, lots of metal in the oil pan. I'm thinking of boring out the CB and finding new bearings, anyone ever tried and had success?
Let's see what it looks like when you get is apart.
Don't forget the bolt in the starter cavity...
Once you're sure they're all out, tap gently around the perimeter of the case with a rubber mallet, tapping in the direction you want the part to go. Eventually they'll part.
Avoid using a screwdriver as a prybar. If absolutely necessary, use a few strips of blister pak plastic to protect the gasket surfaces.
You can't bore the cases.
The bearings come in different thickness, but the outer diameter is the same.
Make sure the bolt under the starter cover is removed. All the rest are on the underside of the motor.
Remove the plate behind the countersprocket. You can use a screwdriver in front and back of the cases.
You'll see a spot to insert the screwdriver. But don't pry the area where the cases will seal together. :nono:
lets not forget the 2 allen bolts behind the oil filter (must remove filter first) these bolts are gottn through the 2 round holes via oilpan
I didn't know this was a fairly common problem, I have a motor with exactly the same problem. I was considering getting the area machined and using a larger bearing but couldn't find anything that would work. Well, if any of your internals are bad I have a bottom end that is full of parts.
Like DG says, you would have to find or make bearings with a larger O/D, and if there is enough metal there to support them line-bore the cases while bolted together to ensure alignment. Alternatively you could perhaps build up the damaged area with aluminium weld and machine back to the original size.....not impossible if you can find a good reclaimation company and if you throw wads of cash at it, but the cheapest and easiest option is to junk the case and find and use a 2ndhand one.
Thanks Slegde for the options, I'm going to look into the welding and reboring option, but in all likelyhood I'm now on the lookout for a new case or complete engine. Anything out there in Canada, please contact me.