Bike in Question: '95 GS 500 E, 3,500 miles, K&N box Filter, 40/150 jets, V&H Exhaust
My GS is very choke-sensitive; starts immediately with full choke as usual, revs about 1600rpm warms up easily, and within 2 minutes runs great with no choke (it's currently around 20*F here).
Once it is really warm, the bike idles at around 1700 RPM with the idle mixture screw completely out, so I can't bring the revs down manually, and if I put the choke on, it revs to over 3k (is that normal?)
I did research the forum and read that those High idle revs are either an air leak in the carb boot b4 the cyl. head (doubtful), or a loose needle - correct? I don't recall losing a spring when I took the carbs apart, everything seemed to be in place. MY theory was that either my needles arent set right (currently on 2nd clip position from top) or that the fuel mixture screws are incorrect; however, the fuel bowl level seems to be right about spec. SO would adjusting the needles or the fuel mixtures for each bowl do anything to correct the revs? Assume that the carbs are synced correctly ::please::
Also, I am able to upshift AND downshift quite easily without even tapping the clutch lever - do I need to make an adjustment, or is my clutch about shot? THANKS~!
I would start by lowering your idle to 1300, after a 15 minute ride.
Leave everything else, it's all fine.
Your needles don't really come into play with idle....you have to start opening up the throttle alil before the main jet starts really flowing. Scratch is corrct as usual. Check for intake leaks with some carb cleaner or wd40
Quote from: scratch on February 05, 2007, 05:00:48 PM
I would start by lowering your idle to 1300, after a 15 minute ride.
Leave everything else, it's all fine.
... Lower it how man? That's what I am asking, I would like it to idle at 1300, but after a 15 minute ride, it idles at 1800 with the idle screw completely out - what are my options to lower it further?
What about adjusting the choke then the idle?
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=31017.msg339089#msg339089
Okay, but you have just stated that the idle screw doesn't affect idle, so that means something else is.
Does your throttle cable(s) have enough slack?
The last thing would be that the airboots* (which go between the airbox and carbs) are not sealing all the way around, or maybe the carbs aren't seated all the way in their carb boots (the ones between the carbs and the head).
*Although, you have the K&N box filter (does that mean you have the lunchbox?)
Lastly, when was the last time you had the valves checked?
yes, K&N Lunchbox/single pod, no airbox - does that tend to raise the Idle RPM a bit because of the higher flow capacities? I will check the throttle cable, that could very well be it - would the bike not usually run with the throttle adj. screw zero-ed out?
The rejet should compensate for the pipe and filter.
Check to make sure you have the little (read: dinky) o-rings under each carb top, in good condition.