Turned the darn ignition back to far when I turn off the bike the other day. It was daylight so I didn't realize the lights were still on until a little later when it got dark. Tried to start it and... click, click, click... d@mn! Dead battery. Should I replace the battery or will it matter if I just charge it back up?
If your battery was good before it got ran down then you should be just fine charging it back up again.
mine just died to but it will not charge. so i'm going to try this place for a battery http://advancedbattery.com/itemdesc~product~gs+cb10l-b2+high+performance+12v+w%2fo+aci~ic~cb10l-b2gt~eq~cb10l-b2-type~tp~.htm its the same exact one that came with the bike. the dealership wanted $80 for a new one. all i have to do is buy the acid
Quote from: wascher24 on March 03, 2007, 01:17:10 PM
Turned the darn ignition back to far when I turn off the bike the other day. It was daylight so I didn't realize the lights were still on until a little later when it got dark. Tried to start it and... click, click, click... d@mn! Dead battery. Should I replace the battery or will it matter if I just charge it back up?
I have some questions:
- How old is the battery? If it has had a lot of use (say 4-5 years), the battery plates may have sulfated to a point where it may not preform well even after a full charge.
- How's the liquid level? If the cells are not fully covered, you are at greater risk of sulfation.
- Do you have an idea of the battery's State of Charge prior to the deep discharge? If it is consistently at 50% discharged or more, the battery lifetime is significantly reduced. How to check? A fully charged battery will show at least 12.6 volts. If at 12 volts or less, you're well below full charge.
Life Cycles vs. Percent Depth-of-Discharge (DoD)
(http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/conlife.gif)
Oh, adding new electrolyte is not usually the right answer. If the Specific Gravity levels are increased beyond the battery manufacturer's recommended limit, the battery will exhibit a higher capacity level, but will require more maintenance and a have shorter overall service life.
If I were you, I'd hook the battery up to a charger and let'er get back to reasonable form. Use distilled water to get the plates covered. If you use a car charger, make sure to use the lowest setting (usually 2 Amps) and leave it on for no more than 4-5 hours, preferably less.
If a battery shows continued bias to low discharge capacity, then replace it. Yes, replacement batteries go for $80. Better (~$50) deals are out there, but stay way from the bargain basement prices. You tend to get what you pay for.
for my battery i did hook up to the charger but the charger starts the charging process then it stops charging within 30 secs then the check light comes on. so i guess the battery is to far gone.
Quote from: jeast on March 03, 2007, 08:15:16 PM
for my battery i did hook up to the charger but the charger starts the charging process then it stops charging within 30 secs then the check light comes on. so i guess the battery is to far gone.
Sounds like the battery was drawing too much current for the charger's liking. There is little to nothing anyone can do in this case. Best be done with the old and bring in a fresh player.
Just a thought.
Have you guys seen those dash top solar chargers you plug into cars cigarette lighters?
They trickle charge your battery?
Wonder if they would be a good idea for bike riders who infrequently ride their bike to keep their battery topped up???
I cannot see a down side.
Those solar panels usually come with a cigarette lighter connector. Could go either of two ways to connect to the battery. (A female connector could come in handy.)