Had bike winterized...never been started since it been put away. Today I go and take the battery off battery tender, and make sure the level is where it should be. Its fully charged. Went to put the battery in, and turned the key to on. Lights come on, and so does neutral light. Went to start the bike, and all i hear is its struggling, its at the point right before it turns on, but it doesn't. Then I hear a click click click. So i check to make sure the choke is on, and try again, nothing... Set it to prime and try again, nothing.
Any idea why its not starting? I asked my co-worker told me to get some 2 cycle engine oil, take the spark plugs out and put some oil in there. Now I haven't done this yet that is why im asking on here to make sure if that would be a good thing to do. Btw. my bike is an 04 gs500f. Before I winterized it, it ran just fine.
battery is crap. jump it.
I've never jump started a bike from a car. Do I first start the car, then connect the cables and then start the bike, or do i connect the cables first, then start the car and then the bike?
it's just like jumping another car...but hook the bike up and try cranking it before you turn the car on. Only start the car up if you still can't get it to turn over fast enough.
DO NOT START THE CAR I REPEAT DO NOT START THE CAR.ONLY HOOK THE CABLES TO THE BATTERY WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR.DID I MENTION NOT STARTING THE CAR.
The reason for this is that you WILL FRY your Charging system on your bike.Your Alternator on your car will be putting out 100Amps more or less your system is only designed for up to 20Amps more or less.
Quote from: Jughead on March 08, 2007, 06:43:53 PM
DO NOT START THE CAR I REPEAT DO NOT START THE CAR.ONLY HOOK THE CABLES TO THE BATTERY WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR.DID I MENTION NOT STARTING THE CAR. The reason for this is that you WILL FRY your Charging system on your bike.Your Alternator on your car will be putting out 100Amps more or less your system is only designed for up to 20Amps more or less.
I start bikes with running cars all the time. Unless something is broken, the bike won't draw anymore power than what it needs. Similar voltage is the only requirement.
being an auto mechanic +1 on the biek will only draw the amps it needs and thats why fuses are used. now if you use a car or truck with a battery higher than 12v than stop :icon_rolleyes: need i say more?
Okey Dokey whatever you guys say. :thumb: Don't say I didn't Warn you. ;)
If the boogy man reaches out from under your bed tonight and eats your testicles, don't say I didn't warn you.
He'll have a Hard time Chewing on Brass Balls. :laugh:
well he IS the boogyman.
Yeah but Brass to Boogey Men is like Kryptonite to Superman. :icon_mrgreen:
Tard Farm Bound.Sorry RavenX :laugh:
Jump starting from a running car is quite safe assuming both voltages are the same. The current output of an alternator is dependent on the electrical load it sees. If there is no load, there is no current flow. If an an alternator is quoted as being capable of delivering 100A it doesnt mean its delivering it constantly like it does with the voltage. The amount of current the bike will draw from the car when starting will only be the same as it would draw from a fully charged battery.
Its Ohms law: If Voltage in a circuit remains constant, current varies in proportion to the power required.
^Sledge is a total pimp...he knows what's up.
- If you believe the battery is okay, then check that the electrical contacts are clean and secure. I've had a dirty connection behave exactly as you've suggested. Cleaned the contacts (wire brush on posts, inside of clips), made them firm and she started up like new.
- If you're jumping from a car battery, you don't need to start the car. The car battery should be able to supply necessary current at base voltage.
But if your battery is over four years old, its health should be suspect. It is hard to find anyone who can properly test it. I'm in the camp that if something is known to cause trouble, replace it. Yeah, it's not cheap but it's worth the piece of mind.