My GS is in the shop today for general maintenance-type-stuff that most of you probably do yourselves... But, I am:
1) Lazy
2) Without a proper work area
3) A "meat-fist" that almost ALWAYS over-tightens everything (and yes, I even own a torque wrench)
So, I choose to pay someone else to not kill me... 'cause I'd probably screw something up and kill myself... OK... Enough of that...
Anyway... The techs at the shop were trying to convince me to buy a new chain/sprockets... I was really confused as to why, since they aren't that old. Well, for one the chain had crap-loads of tight spots in it... And two, they
always do sprockets when they do chains. :dunno_white: Basically, once they cleaned the damn gunk off the chain, the poor thing was dry as a bone (and not a soup bone)...
Here's a reminder to everyone lazy... CLEAN, then LUBE... I guess putting more and more lube on a dirty chain doesn't cut it... :nono: Sorry. :cry:
(No need to call me names... I already know :icon_confused:) (Oh and... I think this explains that woosh-woosh noise.)
Yea because of my laziness I have to do alot this weekend
Fork Seals
Oil Change
Front Brake pad change
Front and rear tire change
and chain and sprocket
How much you think it will cost for parts?
Question can I put a 120 on the stock front wheel of a gs?
and what tires you suggest that good on a money budget? I need a 150 in the rear and either a 110 or 120
and are Fork seals pretty easy to do?
if you don't clean it it's better to not bother lubing it
The guys at the shop want to sell as many chains and sprockets plus the labor to install them as they can, their opinions don't impress me. I never clean chains, just lube with good chain lube, not wax. PJ-1 Blue preferred.
With our 0-ring chains the lube for the chains is sealed inside and the lube we spray on the outside is for the sprockets. I lube when I see shiney rollers, couldn't make them much cleaner than that.
I've never replaced a rear sprocket on a bike yet, never saw one that needed replaced, never noticed any reduction in chain life because they weren't replaced. Put 80k miles each on a CB750K and on my 97 GS, put 98k miles on a CM400A, and 46k on my current 02 GS500 all on the OEM rear sprockets.
I change the front sprocket every chain or two, they need it and their wear is appearant. Chains last 15-20k miles for me with year round riding. Not really worn out yet at this milage but after spring, summer, and fall wear on the o-rings, the heavily salted winter streets here finish them off and they are getting kinky by spring.
Works for me.
Quote from: robbie on March 19, 2007, 05:27:16 PM................can I put a 120 on the stock front wheel of a gs? and what tires do you suggest that good on a money budget? I need a 150 in the rear and either a 110 or 120
and are Fork seals pretty easy to do?
Need a 150 rear? Why? Only good reason for a 150 rear is to get the sport touring or supersport radials that don't come in narrower sizes and they are not budget tires. I do like the looks of the 150 rears on the GS too by the way. :thumb:
Noticed recently that Bridgestone no longer lists standard replacement BT45 tires in our OE 110/70 and 130/70 sizes, but the actual OEM spec G BT45 GS500F tires are avilable now at bargain prices. Available from AMT for $138 plus about $20 shipping for the pair.
Without going to cheap Chinese tires, I'd pick the new Avon Roadriders as the best bargain in a good tire right now. $125 plus shipping for a OE size pair from AMT. Southwest has them for $149 a pair, shipping included. I'd choose the 110/80 front and 140/70 rear from Southwest for $146 shipped.
http://www.americanmototire.com/
http://swmototires.com/
Well I'm in the WD-40 amp, so I clean and (light) lubricate my chain at the same time. I no longer use proper chain oil and wax as it picks up too much dirt and surely that is worse for sprocket wear.
I'd only recommend using WD-40 only as a chain cleaner and lube if your willing to do it more often, and you have o-ring style chain.
I clean the chain in kerosene once a year, taking it off and submerging. I lube the chain only to the middle and only from the inside (where sprockets touch it), i have noticed it doesn't become dirty so quickly as before, when i sprayed all over it.
The debate about WD40 and its properties and effects on bearings and chains will go on for ever, personally I dont use it on chains because I know that A) It dissolves grease, B) It is a penetrant and will find its way into tight and close fitting areas. Given that a chain is made from tight and close fitting parts filled with grease I believe it is doing more harm than good. Incidently this is a view shared by certain employees of the NTSB. See the link.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/motorcycle-chain-cleaner/
Quote from: robbie on March 19, 2007, 05:27:16 PMHow much you think it will cost for parts?
Question can I put a 120 on the stock front wheel of a gs?
and what tires you suggest that good on a money budget? I need a 150 in the rear and either a 110 or 120
and are Fork seals pretty easy to do?
Cost? That all depends on where you get your parts... Tires will cost ya'... Again, depending on what kind you get.
Chain and Sprockets is somewhat pricey, but not too bad if you do it yourself.
120 on the front? Why? The GS is made for a 110/70-17...
150 on the rear? Why? The GS is made for a 130/70-17...
You can put
some 140/70-17 on the rear without getting a new wheel or modifying anything. Listen to any post from gsJack... He is the resident expert on tires... By leaps and bounds...
I haven't done fork seals, but I hear they're not that bad once you get 'em off...
The whole WD-40 debate has been best played out here:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8987
it includes great posts like letter from Tsubaki (the maker of my chain)
(http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7600/tsubakiletterbb8.jpg)
I have seen that note many many times in various bike forums, are you aware there is a lot of doubt as to its authenticity? Rumour has it that it was put together by a sneaky individual trying to support claims he made regarding cleaning/lubrication. Be honest it looks like a shopping list. Note it has no letterheading or address/contact details and, it could have been done in MS office in 2 mins......maybe if Tsubaki made such claims on their website people like me would pay more attention.
It always seems to me to be the younger and less experienced owners who choose to except the claims made in this note as fact. There again you could say its the older and more experienced owners who mainly choose to dissmiss it hhmmm?? Anyway if it is authentic I call it corporate BS, no manufacturer of any product will ever admit in writting that a product of theirs is in any way inferiour or unsuitable for the job. If you want a true and unbiased opinion on a product I find it best to get it from a totaly independant and unbiased source and not from the maker of the product themselves.
The note is vague, do the comments made by Tsubaki apply to chains made by other companies? or just their own? or just the 530 Sigma series? It is worded to suggest just the 530 Sigma, It also says nothing you will do on the outside will get inside, then goes on to say dont use kerosene or pressure wash, well to me thats a big fat contradiction. I can understand the pressure wash but why not kerosene or other volatile solvents??
Chain cleaning/lubing is a big can of worms, everyone has their own method and everyone thinks their method is best but over the years I have seen more evidence that suggests WD40 and O/X ring chains dont mix, and nothing credible so far that suggests they do............but if you are happy to use WD40 and reccomend that others do also, you carry on.
PJ-1 Blue is exactly what I use...
And I don't think my method is the best... Probably the worst... Which is why I started this whole thread...
I don't care WHAT you use or how, but IF you lube your chain.... CLEAN BEFORE LUBE.
That's all I'm saying.........
You know, in the end I think it all comes down to having a clean chain free of dirt and grit.
If you clean your chain thoroughly and regularly and then apply chain lube (be it oil or wax) your sprocket will last you a long time.
If you just keep applying lube without cleaning the grit off you will get high wear rates as found out by RVertigo.
Now I concede if you clean your chain frequently and then apply a special motorbike chain lubricant AND clean your chain and re lube at the slightest hint of the chain picking up dirt, you will give the chain the best protection and longest life.
BUT if you DON"T!
then we know what happens.
I think as WD-40 doesn't pick up as much crud to begin with (and doesn't so easily fling onto your pants) a quick wipe down with WD-40 on a rag is often sufficient as long as it is done often.
The key factor.... what ever you do..... do it often :thumb:
Well I have the katana rear wheel on already and I it has a Michelin Radial 150 and the front is a stock now bald battlax 110.
What tires you suggest with this setup?
Quote from: robbie on March 21, 2007, 04:44:01 PM
Well I have the katana rear wheel on already and I it has a Michelin Radial 150 and the front is a stock now bald battlax 110.
What tires you suggest with this setup?
wrong thread?
Robbie -
Was there a thread that you wanted to ask this question? If so, pm me the thread address (copy/paste), and I will move your post to the appropriate thread.
If not, and you wanted to start a new thread, please pm me back and state so, and I will make the appropriate changes.
Personally, I like to keep my chain clean during the summer, and just loob it regularily throughout the year.
I think it's cuz RVertigo asked about his tires.
stick with michelins if you like them. 150 in the rear, 110 up front.
Good catch.
thank you answered my question...