so i finally found what was causing my high idle now i took it to the shop abou tthreee times now(since it was under warrenty) and everytime the guy fixed my high idle in about 3 min. so today it did it again so i lifted up the tank and found the srew that was vibrating loose. click the link below to see the crab diagram and the problem is number 66,67,68 im guessing its the stop so when i release the throttle my bike doesnt go under the idle specs and die out car have this also. so my question is how do i stop this from coming loose again i adjusted it in and i lowered my idle and it stop at about 2k and wont go under that im going to take it to the guy tomarrow have him get it in spec and figure away to stop the vibration i was thinking of somethread locker but am not sure what do you guys think.
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic~dept_id~1254645.asp
66, 67, 68 is the vacuum synchronization screw; it dynamically sychronizes the butterflies so that they open the same amount at the same time. Go ahead and threadlock; the springs are supposed to keep the screw from moving.
Part 41 is your idle screw.
Have the mechanic sychronize the carbs first and then set the idle. It does no good to set the idle with unbalanced carbs.
is this something i can do myself if so how?
Yeah, very easy to do yurself and you will have confidence that you have synchronized them as perfectly as possible.
The diagram is for newer carbs, so I am not sure where the vacuume lines of the synchronization gauge connect there, but it will be somewere on the top cover of the carbs.
You either need to buy a synchronization tool, they come either in mercury or dial designs, or make a sunchronization tool yourself.
If you buy it will be somewhere around $60, if you make it yourself, it will be under $10 and will be more accurate to boot.
search "carb synchronization"
Jenya
ok so two questions
1) from what i read doing a carb sync is getting the vac between both carbs the same. i have a vac gauge that read PSI and In Hg i can also get another one in i need to can i hook both of them up get the reading and adjust if needed. will this method work or no?
2) i opened both tops on my carbs to see if they have the little o-rings you guys talk about and nothing so my question is where do they go i ned some pics please, im guessing the mechanic who worked on it over looked them and didnt see them fall off.
[4
i have tons of o rings at work since i work will hydraulic pumps and valves and what not so o rings are no problem. the last time i removed them, all i saw was the holes for the two screws, unless i wasnt looking hard enough.
what do those o rings do my bike does not leak gas? :dunno_white:
[3
ok i have an aftermarket exhaust with stock jets and air box is their anyway i can adjust the fuel mixture to help it out a little or what else can i do to richen the mixture beside a rejet.
[5
yeah that question was a bit off topic but i was on my mind at the time.
i going to get some o rings from work they arent that small i have seen and used smaller. im kinda curious tho how does air get past it if its sealed? i may be wrong but u guess air is NOT supposed to pass through that slot :icon_confused: i dunno but like i said im going to get the o rings put them on and see how she runs. as far as the exhaust i am going to rejet just not this soon (no money) and my bike does not run bad with it on just when taking off. btu if i could have done something to sorta fix till the rejet i would have but oh well no biggie
Every time I see one of these posts it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside cause I'm not the only one who lost those damn little o-rings. :mad: :icon_mrgreen:
[3
ok so i have the o rings i got from work and they fit good (these are not small we haev used some where the outer diam. was 1/16 and the inner was in the 32nds now those are small i remember losing some of them in my damm hand) so now i need to get a new bolt cause one of them were stripped does anyone know what size threads they have?
ok so i git her up and runnign today and she ran like a champ. I put the little o-rings in on the top of the diaphram :thumb: sync'd the carbs easy, and set the idle, the hard part they guy who worked on it put some paper thread locker on both the sync screw(no big deal) and the idle screw (retard) what thatcrap did was stop me from lower my idle so i muscled the screw loose and i was able to lower my idle to my liking. thanks to everyone that helped me out with this on, im so happ i should be getting my vortex clipons soon :thumb: