What type, brightness, etc globes can i put in the standard GS headset (i have the 500F) i would like more light!!! without killing either the wiring or the battery.
I ride on tight dark roads at night and i cant see where im heading until its too late, had a couple of near run offs so now am riding much slower than i could safely due to s**ttie lights!!! :mad:
Ta! Old Man
The standard H4 is 60/55 watt but there are brighter burning ones (100/80 130/90) which are significantly more expensive
I myself never tried them cause mine tend to burn out frequently
S5
Running Higher wattage bulbs is hard on you charging system too.
+1 on silver stars
If you do a lot of night riding like I do, I recommend getting a bright yellow bulb.
I purchased a Lockhart Phillips H4 yellow ion bulb. I used it for only a month and it was the best month of night riding I've ever seen.
I took the bulb out of the bike, so if you're interested, let me know. I bought it for about $40 shipped.
Maybe $20 shipped?
Any H4 light will fit. I just installed a 55w/100w light in my bike a couple of days ago and the difference is amazing! I actually had this light in another bike that broke down, and I remembered it was in there just before I sold the broken bike. I didn't have any problems with it in my 1979 BMW R65 when I had it in there for a few months. The battery didn't hold much charge with the old or new light, but nothing fried.
I originally was kind of worried about it being such a high wattage, but figured it was worth the risk since there are lots of deer where I ride and the extra light helps sooooo much! :thumb:
I was also worried about blinding drivers with the 55w low beam, but nobody has flashed their lights at me yet, just make sure your headlight isn't aimed too high.
I don't remember what brand of bulb it is but I think it was about $25 and it's lasted several months of riding, then three years of sitting. I think the added visibility is worth the risk to your wiring, especially if you ride at night a lot.
ive been thinking about trying these out: http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=PIA15224/353.0
expensive though...
Quote from: salad on April 05, 2007, 02:29:06 AM
ive been thinking about trying these out: http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=PIA15224/353.0
expensive though...
Try here instead and get the anit-vibration version and save the cost of an extra bulb
http://www.velocityfactor.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=731
Those above bulbs may be a tiny bit better than stock but they're still the stock wattage. Yeah they say that they're as bright as a 110watt bulb but that's BS. If you really want a brighter light, you have to go with higher wattage.
I also try to stay away from the blue tinted bulbs as they tend to attract cops, and I don't think that it looks too cool.
Duct tape a spotting light to the handlebars. You'll be able to see heaven itself.
http://boatandrvaccessories.com/VEC-192.htm (http://boatandrvaccessories.com/VEC-192.htm) 20 million candlepower!
-Anti 8)
Old Man, you just need a bulb that has a hotter temperature than stock. Others have recommended Sylvania SilverStars (http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/HighPerformance/Silverstar/ProductLine/) -- good bulb. The literature has it there is an H4ST model for Motorcycles -- perhaps thicker filiment to resist shock?
I've got the equivalent bulb to what is now the PIAA H4 Extreme White (http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H4.html). Both the of these bulbs have a hotter temperature light (~4000K) than standard Halogen (which is anywhere from 2800-3600K). I find it throws farther, and at the same wattage as stock.
I don't have any experience with other temperatures on the spectrum. I like what I have and believe both these bulbs would fill the bill at affordable prices.
PS. Anti -- Love the Duct tape idea. :) I'd put a moon beam on both sides for balance.
Hi all,
Thanks for the info, I have tried the local suppliers for both the Silver Star and Piaa but they are not carried where i live so i am going to try this http://www.narva.com.au/Globes_21.html The cost is $17.80 aus. I will give a review in a few days time.
Old Man
That will probably work. When you get'em, please post your opinion on improvement -- with before and after pictures if you can; no pressure. ;)
(everyone loves pictures.)
Quote from: Old man on April 06, 2007, 05:37:07 PM
Hi all,
Thanks for the info, I have tried the local suppliers for both the Silver Star and Piaa but they are not carried where i live so i am going to try this http://www.narva.com.au/Globes_21.html The cost is $17.80 aus. I will give a review in a few days time.
Old Man
Please, if they're decent I'll want to get some for my GS :)
I was reading up on the discussions between GE Nighthawks and Silverstars, and found some interesting info:
The Silvertsars seem to throw more light due to the whiteness of the beam, but tend to get lost in foggy conditions. They also burn out quicker (Which was already stated). The Nighthawks, by comparison, throw a good beam too, though the light is a little more yellow, due to the bulb not having a bluish finish to it.
In contrast though, Silverstar has the ultras on the market, which, AFAIK, still throw ~4000K, but without the blue tint. GE has been starting to advertise their Nighthawk Plus's, which are reputted to throw just a shade more than 4000K, AND be whiter than the regular Nighthawks...but they haven't hit the market yet.
For the difference in price, I'm going to be trying out the Silvertstar Ultras, as GE doesn't have the Plus's out on the market yet. I need to see at night :icon_mrgreen:
Just to let everyone know...
After all my research and trial and errors, the higher you go on the temperature scale, the lower the light output...
YELLOW bulbs (such as 3000k) supposedly have more lumens then a hyper blue (6000K) bulb. I've tried bulbs that were 8000K, and though they looked good from a color standpoint, night driving was horrible. Also, during the day, it's was kinda difficult for me to tell if the headlights were on or not when I glanced at the front of the car. I had to REALLY look for the light coming from the bulb.
QuoteAfter all my research and trial and errors, the higher you go on the temperature scale, the lower the light output...
This would make sense, just like flourescent lights compared to inacdescant. A 15watt flourescent puts out about the same ammount of light as a 60watt incadecent, and the flourescent is barely warm while the incadescent bulb will burn you. For the same wattge, if one bulb is hotter, then it's using up more energy producing heat rather than light.
Anyways, if you think about it this seems to make sense, heat takes energy, and light takes energy. You can't have more of both without increasing the energy
Quote from: ducati_nolan on April 07, 2007, 11:13:52 AM
QuoteAfter all my research and trial and errors, the higher you go on the temperature scale, the lower the light output...
This would make sense, just like flourescent lights compared to inacdescant. A 15watt flourescent puts out about the same ammount of light as a 60watt incadecent, and the flourescent is barely warm while the incadescent bulb will burn you. For the same wattge, if one bulb is hotter, then it's using up more energy producing heat rather than light.
Anyways, if you think about it this seems to make sense, heat takes energy, and light takes energy. You can't have more of both without increasing the energy
He was talking about the heat scale applying to the color of the light.. not the actual temperature of the bulb.
Hi all,
The NARVA PLUS 50 is definately better than the standard GS globe, Low beam is much better, it gives a better coverage of light and is brighter, the High beam doesnt 'seem' to be brighter, but the beam is narrower and throws further so it gives you more of whats coming earlier which is what i wanted, all in all for $17.00aus its a cheap and effective upgrade.
As i do around 800kms a week the globe will get a good work out and I will post if and when the globe carks it, I will also post when i get to use the lights in fog/low cloud.
Cheers Old Man :thumb:
Quote from: Old man on April 13, 2007, 02:44:23 AM
Hi all,
The NARVA PLUS 50 is definately better than the standard GS globe, Low beam is much better, it gives a better coverage of light and is brighter, the High beam doesnt 'seem' to be brighter, but the beam is narrower and throws further so it gives you more of whats coming earlier which is what i wanted, all in all for $17.00aus its a cheap and effective upgrade.
As i do around 800kms a week the globe will get a good work out and I will post if and when the globe carks it, I will also post when i get to use the lights in fog/low cloud.
Cheers Old Man :thumb:
The "narrower" high beam is prolly just in your head. What makes the beam "travel" is the reflectors in the headlight housing, not the bulb itself.
The filament can make a difference. A smaller filament should be able to be focused better and throw a tighter beam than a large filament
QuoteThe filament can make a difference. A smaller filament should be able to be focused better and throw a tighter beam than a large filament
Thats about right, the blurb off the pack states: "the globe uses a more tightly wound filament thats brighter and more precisely focused".
Sounds about what i see! :thumb:
Old man.
Guys if your serious; 2 people could just go in on an hid kit from here for $155 shipped
http://www.xenoneyes.com/
Or here for 125 shipped
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83991
Since I have a kit on my car, I cant be happier. Just a suggestion...
O0
I have used H4 Rallye Bulbs 100/130w on my car with nice success... bright as day on high beams.
I was considering doing the same thign (required relaying the headlight to battery for propery light dispersal)
but being a jeep guy too , I noticed these 60/80w http://www.quadratec.com/products/97018_203.htm
any thoughs ?
Patrick
Quote from: average on April 19, 2007, 05:55:14 PM
Or here for 125 shipped
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83991
This is a good deal. I might get this for my R6... 3000K temp.
Quote from: annguyen1981 on April 20, 2007, 05:11:02 PM
Quote from: average on April 19, 2007, 05:55:14 PM
Or here for 125 shipped
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83991
This is a good deal. I might get this for my R6... 3000K temp.
Ann, why would you go 3k when you could go 4.3k and light up the rode so much better?
It's *AN*
:laugh:
Anyway... I've done a LOT of trial and error and research... 3000K delivers more Lumens then 4300K...
It seems the lower the color temp (measured in K's, whatever that stands for...) the higher the Lumens (measured in Lumens).
I have a Lockhart Phillips 3000K bulb for my GS500f, and during night rides, I was VERY comfortable with the amount of light that baby was projecting. More than half my riding is done at night... So therefore, I'd be better off with the 3000K kit.
BUT, during the daytime, that 3000K bulb was VERY visible to other drivers. I felt safe during the day too.
True..but that low in kelms the color is more yellow/amber and I would prefer it more white. its all in what you like. Atleast you didnt try to tell me that the 12k kit was brighter than the 6k kit :laugh:
O0
Quote from: average on April 20, 2007, 08:55:30 PM
Atleast you didnt try to tell me that the 12k kit was brighter than the 6k kit :laugh:
But it IS!!!
:laugh:
Alright, I am very interested in this kit, I am still wondering if 3000k is bettet han 4300k, (see below and note how much closer to the objective of the camera the 3000K is compared to the 4300K..humm) I have read a lot of cycle magazine/web site and alot mention that a yellow light will actually be more usefull in darker nights (country roads which I ride) and foggy condittions (which I have as well bein rural texas), but I need distance light more than foggy condition lights, so I am a little "torn" on which one to get.
My only experience with light changes where on my car and I used 130w/100w relayed Rallye H4's, which produced (after changing all 4 headlights, lit up the road on high beams about 1 mile down the road (grin)....
mydepot.com Product provided by seller http://www.mydepots.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180 (http://www.mydepots.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=180)
indicates 2 HID Bulbs and ballast, but does the GS500 use 2 H4's ? or only one ?
oh yeah chart of light dispersal/color of the HID kit (which is looking really good now)
(http://www.mydepots.com/images/hid/colortemps.jpg)
Also anyone think it is worth the extra 50$ for Bi-Xenon ? (see below the difference in product on H4-2 and H4-Bi (bi-xenon is One bulb that switches between low/high (no turn off) where the H4-2 is actually an HID + regular high H4 bulb.
As per mydepot.com "With H4-2, you get HID in low beam and halogen in hi beam, With H4-Bixenon, you get HID in both hi and low beams."
H4-2 seen below
(http://mydepots.com/images/hid/h4-2.jpg)
H4-Bixenon below
(http://mydepots.com/images/hid/h4-bixenon.jpg)
The brightest stock wattage bulbs would have to be Philips X-treme Power 80+ globes.
They are an un-believable upgrade in brightness and safety. :thumb:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=35936.0
For riders with the F model, check out this thread for information on LED's to replace the front parking light. Some options are much more brighter than the stock globe.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=24994.0
Silverstars are pretty good, suggestion, relay the headlight you will find it produces more "candle power" then letting 12 guage wire dictate how much power is permitted through, you will see at least 20-40% increase in visibility. its all about how much amperage/wattage a wire can let go through, relaying the switch wires, and main wire to headlight to become 10guage wire... and the flow of electron instead of flowing from battery through swuitch to light, the light ttriggers the relay, wich in turn connects the headlight to the battery directly.... POWER !!... of course if you have a bad/weak alternator.... :)
Is it too much to ask for a diagram? :oops: and details on what type of relay to use? :dunno_white:
I haven't tried them and don't have any relationship to them, but these guys have pre-built kits which look pretty nice. You could probably save a few buck building it yourself, but their prices seem pretty reasonable for the convenience factor.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
If you were up to the task, you could easily get all the things you needed for under 10 bucks, $5 for a SPDT switch and then some for the thicker wire. It would take a little more work, but would be pretty easy just the same (and a lot cheaper). Maybe I'll do this sometime soon.