I set out to simply swap replace a chain but .... now I need to replace the notorious clutch push rod seal. It looks like a simple "gently pry out old and tap a new one into place with a socket" job, but, is there some sealant or something that should be applied to the outer case of the seal where it presses into the case to prevent that joint from seeping? If so, specifically what am I shopping for?
Jeffrey
Note to others - When replacing the front sprocket and/or generally digging the 14 tons of accumulated crap out from under the sprocket cover be VERY tender around the clutch push rod. Mine didn't leak before, but after being only slightly disturbed by cleaning and rod motion the aged seals ovaled out and once that happens it PUMPS oil out rapidly as soon as the engine starts. A new seal is like $4.14. A new shiny smooth push rod to please the new seal is only 6 bucks more and a good idea to replace at the same time; and no, your local dealer won't have either part on the shelf.
I set out to simply swap replace a chain on a new-used '96E, but .... in the process this is what has happened as a warning to others:
New chain and sprockets (a nice EK SRX with x-rings and a screw rivet link so no rivet tool needed
New fuel lines (old tore upon removal from barbs)
New fuel and vacuum line clamps (the vacuum line to the fuel valve leaked at that fitting - hope that fixes starvation issue)
Clutch rod oil seal and rod replaced
Spark plug wires replaced since petrified and slipping out of coil
New .40 pilot jets + one washer on needle (REALLY easy once you dig deep enough to get the carbs off, which were clean except for rust in bowls)
Lubed clutch, choke and throttle cables and cleared hoses fouling choke slide motion
Bled and filled brakes
All easy jobs, and as long as you have it all apart you might as well make it proper. It's my first bike, and it looks like you need to be a mechanic to keep one running!
Nope if you can get the other one out just Pop the other one in.
no sealer needed but a dabble of oil will keep the rubber from ripping.....sort of like a fork seal ja-la-babby
QuoteNope if you can get the other one out just Pop the other one in.
Can you really do that?
How easy did the install go by the way, I suspect that I may have to do the same soon :cry:
Quote from: coll0412 on April 18, 2007, 08:46:25 PM
QuoteNope if you can get the other one out just Pop the other one in.
Can you really do that?
How easy did the install go by the way, I suspect that I may have to do the same soon :cry:
Very easy job. 20-30 minutes tops. I just did mine the other day. I was getting a few drops of oill running out and down the side stand after a good ride. After looking for the leak it was the only place it could have come from. I think the real culprit was the push rod itself. Right in the spot that it went through the seal it had blackened and was uneven, pitting and mounding. Not really sure what caused that. I just bought the bike used and it is a 2004 with 3500 miles. That rod shouldn't have been that way but it was. The seal seemed to be OK but since I was already in there and the job was easy it didn't make sense to risk just replacing the rod and still having a leak. The trick I found was that there are tabs bent up at the ends next to the bolts to keep them from spinning out. You'll need to bend them away from the bolts to remove them. Other than that it's a piece of cake. Remove the cover, remove the sprocket, take out the bolts, remove the plate, pry out the old seal, push in the new one, re-assemble and you are done.
Thanks to Jughead for the tip. The seal body is rubber, not metal as I thought, so it self-seals.
The .40 pilot jets + 1 washer make it a different bike. It suddenly runs from cold with minimal choke, runs without balking at low RPM, and pulls away firmly from 2500 RPM.
Jeffrey