The title is my question.
It seems like I can tighten my chain, ride somewhere, and as soon as I get home my chain is loose again. I know that my chain is supposed to have a little slack in it, but I've been tightening everything as much as possible, while leaving some slack in the chain. The chain is of good quality (don't remember the brand), and is less about a year old. Please help me, so I can ride safely and with peace of mind.
Thanks :thumb:
Are you using a torque wrench to tighten the axel nut? Are you putting the welcome-back-cotter pin in?
Put it in the center-stand and check the chain slack in different areas... Spin the wheel a little, check, spin, check, etc... Is it always the same slack?
Could just be time for a new chain if nothing is slipping or moving around... I hear they do that. :dunno_white:
I don't have a torque wrench, but I replace the cotter pin every time I tighten the chain. I also do the spin and check that you mentioned. I also tighten the bejeebezes out of the axel nut. Could I have overtightened the axel nut, and messed something up? I actually tried to not overtighten the axel nut, while still getting it really tight. I forgot to mention that I haven't noticed the axel position indicators move. Which is why I'm at such a loss. I've heard that chain stretch a little over time, but this seems a bit excessive.
Take your chain off and see how much side-to-side flex there is. Shouldn't be much at all. If there's a lot of side-to-side slop then just replace your chain.
Be sure to get an o-ring chain when it comes time to replace. And then it's a good idea not to spray on sticky stuff for chain lube; you'll be more likely to throw o-rings. Constant adjusting is SOP for regular chain.
Looking more toward the future, get shaft drive next time and leave chain maintenance in the past. By golly I remember a time in the early eighties when there was a strong trend toward shaft drive....unfortunately, the track snobs who infest the cycle publications bitched about it and the manufacturers were only too glad to go back to the old chain & spocket consumables to save a buck. :flipoff:
First, I really don't see the point of an o-ring chain on the GS. They're heavier, are tremendously more resistant, and cost our times as much. You can get a 525 roller from any Honda joint for $20 and it'll last longer than the bike if you keep it oiled.
Second, shaft driver is for lazy people.
O-Ring chains are much better for harsher enviroments and for people who don't want to lube there chain everday.
You might want to check your sprockets oppy00 as worn sprockets will cause accelerated stretching of your chain.
Also if the chain is really stretched already, it stretches even faster until it breaks :cry:
If the chain has some mileage on it and you have to adjust it that often it's shot and has to be replaced.
If it's shot it's not unusual to have to adjust it every 200-300 miles.
Quote from: makenzie71 on April 25, 2007, 07:04:37 PM
First, I really don't see the point of an o-ring chain on the GS. They're heavier, are tremendously more resistant, and cost our times as much. You can get a 525 roller from any Honda joint for $20 and it'll last longer than the bike if you keep it oiled.
Second, shaft driver is for lazy people.
Mak's Right.On top of Heavier they tend to use up more HP than a regular Roller Chain.BUT always use a Good Brand of Heavy Duty Chain.A fellow I know ran the Iron Butt from PA to Deals gap and went thru 3 Chains in less than 1500 Miles. :o Even though they were Heavy Duty Chains and a Brand (Cheaper) that he used all of the time they Still wore out and Kinked up on him within a few Hundred Miles.The Build Quality of them wasn't the same as the Last Batch that he Bought.
Problems with shaft drive.
1. Power has to turn a right angle (bevel gears) going into the shaft, then another right angle at the diff. Both right angles rob power.
2. It's heavy andbulky.
3. Can't adjust gear ratios with shaft drive.
4. Boy, I would hate to imagine how much a repair to shaftie would cost.
I have shaft drive on my Conk, it is great for touring. But the above are still true.
I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet....
but if you're replacing your chain because its old and worn, then you need to replace your gears too
for the sake of arguing with everyone....
1. Very few shaft drive bikes are inline bikes...most have boxer engines. Only right angle is at the differential. The Big 4 have gotten out of making so many shaft drive inline setups.
2. Yo momma.
3. Putting a CB900C rear end on my CX up'ed the ratios a bit...more top end. The dif rom a 650 Turbo would lower them a bit. There's always ways about altering the ratios.
4. The shafts are just solid rods with u-joints on both ends. Simple mechanisms...and the only way I can think of to damage one to the point of needing repair is by hitting the bike with something like a peterbilt.
Mak likes shaft!
Yeah, me too... I want to get away from my chain terrors... I'm lazy... I hate cleaning my chain... I put sticky stuff on it and ride around in the rain and "Seattle Grime." I need a new chain, but I just ride with the woosh, woosh, woosh... I hope it doesn't break, get stuck in my wheel, lock it up, make me crash, and kill me.
trade your GS fora maggot...god I love this bike. coming from a TL and I love this bike. About the same weight, 10hp more than the GS, and they're itneresting. You won't see many of them out there.
I have my heart set on a Mean Streak/Marauder 1600. :thumb:
I thought the marauders were belt...heh go figure.
Savage is the only belt drive suzuki out there.
The yamaha road star is belt, Marauder is chain, the 750 shadow is shaft, the new 900 vulcan may be shaft, the 750 vulcan is shaft and hydraulic valves to boot.
Cool.
Srinath.
Actually... The Marauder 800 is belt (Depending on the year)... The 1600 is shaft. And the M50 (AKA Marauder 800) is shaft.
Arter breking a belt after 2 weeks I went to a chain on my Buell. If I break a chain in BF Ejupt I can find a chain NOT true with a belt.