OK I ahve it welded and ground and plucked and preened ...
I will powdercoat it.
However there are some crevices it wont get coated in ...
Should I galvanise it first ... now will the insides of the tubing get galvanised ???
Cos ... I want it to ...
How about black chroming it ... or shiny chrome it and powderocoat on top ...
I want all the crevices to get it and preferably the inner wall of the tubing also to get it.
Anyone here know about galvanising.
Cool.
Srinath.
I can't help you about galvanising, but a blackchromed frame would look freakin sweet :thumb:
I can make it look that exact same way with powdercoating ... the main idea is to see if the inner walls of the tubing will be coated too ...
That was where I was going ... will it be protected with anodising ???
Cool.
Srinath.
It should. when we send our valves out to get anodized it gets both the inside and out , but then again I never sent out a frame.
If hot dip galvanizing, it will get inside the tubes...but...depending on who is operating the line, the may want open up the holes in the tubing to vent it. I have seen the carnage when they torch the holes. Best to call to see how what size vent holes they will need.
galv adds weight!!!!!
and ugly booger texture....go look at a boat trailer
what is the thing about rust....not like you leave your bike outside for 8 yrs at a time....
paint/powder coat and get it back together
Coat the interior of the frame tubes with linseed oil. That's the standard corrosion-proofing measure for aircraft tube structures. Make sure to leave the vent holes open until it hardens. Without exposure to oxygen it will never harden.
[r
Ooooo ... great ideas dudes ...
Thanks GeeP ... How thick is Linseed oil ??? I think I can actually coat it with POR 15 thinned with acetone also I think ... shot in with a syringe.
Dgyver ... I'll ask the guys at galvan industries, the only place that galvanises them around here.
Werase ... weight ??? like I care ... not leave it outside ??? do you even know me ???
Its always outside ... and weight ... like I'd notice its a few lbs heavier.
Cool.
Srinath.
The viscosity of Linseed oil is about like polyurethane. Available at any hardware store.
Your local very expensive bicycle shop might or can get have some Weigle Frame Saver. It's sprayed into steel bicycle frames through a small WD-40 style wand. Another option would be to visit your local Ziebart guy and have him spray a little auto rustproofing in there and roll it around (best choice, IMHO), but get that done AFTER you powder coat the frame. A Ziebart guy will drill only modestly sized holes. Powder properly prepped will get you a great looking and very durable finish and there should be NO gaps in it if properly applied, but it needs about a 30 minute at 380 F bake. The bake will fry any other organic coatings already in there so rust coat last.
Dip galvanized will leave a spangled surface that is VERY difficult to get paint adhesion on or a cosmetic paint job over. I wouldn't go there.
Jeffrey
Builder of Big Automotive Paint Shops
2nd on the 'no go' for dip gal.
if the frame is protected inside, repairing a oopsie on the outside is just a paint pen away. not to mention that proper powder coating is a very TOUGH coating.
O5
Hot dip ganvanising if it will get inside the frame rails and coat them ... plenty of holes to get in, foot peg carriers, drainage holes, the ends are left open on the tail section etc ... no problem if they just let it sit in there a few hours, it will get it in ...
The ouside is definitely powdercoatable. I know that he has done over it. Powder is applied electrostatically and its going to be so thick it should obliterate the texture. I am only concerned about inside it.
My main concern is ... what will do the best job inside the rails. I dont want to cut more holes in it if I can help it.
Cool.
Srinath.
If there are enough holes for dip galvanizing then I would just shoot rust proofing into it. Galvanizing leaves a chalky surface that gives poor paint adhesion unless properly prepped with some weathering and proper primer. Paint LOVES to peel in sheets off of improperly prepped galvanized. A proper powder job should be 2.2-3 mils, just enough to level. BTW, almost all Chrysler products and many GM have powder primer.
Jeffrey
If the outer surface is rough he will lightly sand blast it. That dude is the best.
I am thinking I protect the inside with galvanising ... I can cut a hole in the foot peg carrier area and let it fill up good and I am home free. The inside will be protected, I'll weld that foot peg area shut and it will get blasted and coated over and heck on its inside I can put POR 15 with a syrings and have it coat it.
Outside can be blasted and we will do it good, then Powder it up.
This project just got to be more fun boys.
Cool.
Srinath.
You're making this waaaaaaaay more complicated than it needs to be.
Yup ...
Yup ...
Cool.
Srinath.