i think i am done with this thing. i've spent about $600 in parts to try and get it running, plus countless hours. i had it running for about 20 minutes today after doing the valve shim deal, and then it stopped and i can't get it back. i can't win
What's the bike doing? I'm sure someone on this board can help you figure it out.
it's not starting.
completed shim job
had carbs rejetted and synched
newer gas tank
it's getting fuel.
it just won't kick over and i don't know enough about the bike to get it running consistently. posted in classifieds and craigslist if anyone's interested.
Wish you were closer.
Anyway, 20 mins and it dies ??? always ???
You may have fuel starvation. Or ... heck, see if your left carb is so rich and right is OK. then fuel tap is leaking at the vacuum diaphragm.
Cool.
Srinath.
hey, if you're asking $2800, it's not going to happen friend. lookers will come and crash your bike during 'test ride' but that's about it.
and if it's not running and you try to sell it, you'll get really low ballers like $900 or worse, the old $1/CC deal.
anyway, I'd bet it's an electrical connection, like around the coils, and a small vibration made it work for the 20 minutes you mentioned.
don't forget to look at electrics! it can make it run like junk, not at all, or intermittant.
i also wouldn't spend any more money replacing parts until someone knowledgable (not saying you arent) has taken a crack at it.
fuel problems are weird but electrics are down right wild.
good luck, and don't go throwing that $600 dollars away (you are if you just ditch the bike) befor you get to enjoy it on the road. it's worth the effort. :thumb:
Quote from: ohgood on May 07, 2007, 02:49:32 PM
hey, if you're asking $2800, it's not going to happen friend. lookers will come and crash your bike during 'test ride' but that's about it.
and if it's not running and you try to sell it, you'll get really low ballers like $900 or worse, the old $1/CC deal.
anyway, I'd bet it's an electrical connection, like around the coils, and a small vibration made it work for the 20 minutes you mentioned.
don't forget to look at electrics! it can make it run like junk, not at all, or intermittant.
i also wouldn't spend any more money replacing parts until someone knowledgable (not saying you arent) has taken a crack at it.
fuel problems are weird but electrics are down right wild.
good luck, and don't go throwing that $600 dollars away (you are if you just ditch the bike) befor you get to enjoy it on the road. it's worth the effort. :thumb:
Read, much? He's asking $800 OBO...
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on May 07, 2007, 02:52:00 PM
Quote from: ohgood on May 07, 2007, 02:49:32 PM
hey, if you're asking $2800, it's not going to happen friend. lookers will come and crash your bike during 'test ride' but that's about it.
and if it's not running and you try to sell it, you'll get really low ballers like $900 or worse, the old $1/CC deal.
anyway, I'd bet it's an electrical connection, like around the coils, and a small vibration made it work for the 20 minutes you mentioned.
don't forget to look at electrics! it can make it run like junk, not at all, or intermittant.
i also wouldn't spend any more money replacing parts until someone knowledgable (not saying you arent) has taken a crack at it.
fuel problems are weird but electrics are down right wild.
good luck, and don't go throwing that $600 dollars away (you are if you just ditch the bike) befor you get to enjoy it on the road. it's worth the effort. :thumb:
Read, much? He's asking $800 OBO...
actually, i do. i did a craigslist search for his area (found it in his profile) assumed the asking price of the only gs ($2800) and posted.
oh, and you may also be refering to my comment about wasting $600. that's the amount he stated was already spent in parts.
just to clarify. :)
i'm asking $800.
i re-jiggered the coils and got new wires, as suggested by members here. saved me $150 in parts, but didn't seem to help. i still think it's a fuel problem as i don't smell fuel when the bike's trying to turn over. i don't think it's getting enough vaccuum to pull the fuel through the lines.
"You may have fuel starvation. Or ... heck, see if your left carb is so rich and right is OK. then fuel tap is leaking at the vacuum diaphragm."
this sounds interesting to me. when i looked at the carbs, the left diaphram was moving up and down when running, in time with the cylinders. the right was hardly moving at all, even when cranking the throttle.
how do i fix what you just said?
Quote from: ohgood on May 07, 2007, 04:51:28 PM
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on May 07, 2007, 02:52:00 PM
Quote from: ohgood on May 07, 2007, 02:49:32 PM
hey, if you're asking $2800, it's not going to happen friend. lookers will come and crash your bike during 'test ride' but that's about it.
and if it's not running and you try to sell it, you'll get really low ballers like $900 or worse, the old $1/CC deal.
anyway, I'd bet it's an electrical connection, like around the coils, and a small vibration made it work for the 20 minutes you mentioned.
don't forget to look at electrics! it can make it run like junk, not at all, or intermittant.
i also wouldn't spend any more money replacing parts until someone knowledgable (not saying you arent) has taken a crack at it.
fuel problems are weird but electrics are down right wild.
good luck, and don't go throwing that $600 dollars away (you are if you just ditch the bike) befor you get to enjoy it on the road. it's worth the effort. :thumb:
Read, much? He's asking $800 OBO...
actually, i do. i did a craigslist search for his area (found it in his profile) assumed the asking price of the only gs ($2800) and posted.
oh, and you may also be refering to my comment about wasting $600. that's the amount he stated was already spent in parts.
just to clarify. :)
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=34961.0
Read a little more locally. :thumb:
P4
is there a way to seal the slide without getting a new one? can i use gasket sealer that i used for the valve cover?
20 minutes Sounds like Just enough time to Warm some Electrical Dohicky up Enough to Quit working.Tried Checking for Fire on the Plugs?
Your situation reminds me of me, I went through the same thing with my T-brid SC. the car ran great until one day it just died and wouldnt start, I took it to a shop and they told me i broke the the thing that hold the harmonic balencer and crankshaft toghether, so I had them fix it and once I had the car back another problem showed itself after about three months and $1500 I gave up and sold it for $200 to a junk yard, and till this day I regret it. Im also having the same problem with my trooper cant seem to figure out why it won't run, so this time i said F it and am sending it to a shop next week to get a new motor and carb. Good luck and dont give up but also dotn just throw parts at it stand back look at your bike and figure out what it is doing and what its not doing and start trouble shooting Im sure you can figure it out.
squirrels. no really, small animals toying with the electrics will make a mess of things.ok, maybe just the electrics
oh, and don't let the squirrels have the keys, under any circumstances. they make squids look like nuns on rollerskates.
Quote from: baco99 on May 07, 2007, 07:23:34 PM
is there a way to seal the slide without getting a new one? can i use gasket sealer that i used for the valve cover?
Petcock diaphragm ?? If that black rubbery part is ripped and a tiny enough hole will do it in plenty ... I'll sell you the one good one I have for $5 and shipping.
Oh ... your petcock diaphragm or the vacuum diaphragm in your carbs. I saw your carbs, your vacuum diaphragm is fine. Unless you opened it later and messed it up.
Cool.
Srinath.
Ideas:
You may have killed your battery cranking on it. A battery can still have enough juice to spin the starter, but not enough to give a good spark. Do you have a battery charger/tender?
Did you check the plugs? After cranking some pull one or the other to see if they are wet with gas or carbon fouled. After that, check to see if they are arcing properly by replacing them in their wire and then holding it against the cylinder (wait for the gas to dry first!).
i checked and cleaned the plugs.
i installed new plug wire since one side was corroded
i have not opened the carbs up since Srini sent them back to me
i have the battery on a tender and it's a new battery with new acid.
i was cranking with the bike hooked up to my car with jump cables (no tender, obviously)
OK do this then.
Check float levels. And check if the diaphragms move up and down freely by hand.
Those can get knocked out of alignment when shipping. Usually if the floats are stuck a little shaking or tapping with a screw driver will set them good. And hand fiddling of slides will get it working too.
Cool.
Srinath.
how do i check the float levels?
the slides do move up and down without much difficulty.
[4
i'll check it again. i think i did get the bike to start on PRIME, when i switched to ON is lasted for 5 minutes while i played with the idle and then died.
it might be the petcock.
the vacuum hose is connected at both ends and fits fairly snug, but there's no "clip" holding it on.
what i'd like to do it get a T-fitting for the Res and ON sides of the tank and just run it straight into the fuel line on the carb, doing away with that stupid petcock.
4h
i'll give that a shot and report back tomorrow.
thanks for keeping me in the game!
Hydrolock I have heard almost cost one guy his reproductive ability.
He was standing next to a cruiser (I think Virago or vulcan or maybe a magna) and he cranked it and it launched the spark plug straight into his crotch ... The dude that came to buy my vulcan told me of this story.
Cool.
Srinath.
:o :o :o :o :o :o ( note to self: never stand in potential line of fire of spark plug ) :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
OK. I got her running tonight, but it runs pretty rough. I checked the spark plug gaps and they were way off spec, too far apart. cleaned the plugs and regapped to .030 in. started firing on the left cylinder and then would die again. Took the plugs out again and the right side had oil on it. I think they're being Oil Fouled. According to the book that means anything from potentially bad piston rings to idling for too long. Anyone have any suggestions on what it could be?
Also, the 2nd fuel petcock is definitely damned. The bike only runs for any length of time on PRIME. the other thing is that i don't know where the vacuum line to the petcock is supposed to go to the carb. can anyone show me a picture. the tube fits in like 4 places. either way, i want to replace the entire petcock system from tank to carb with one tube, one valve, and none of this vacuum shaZam!. any suggestions? i've looked into Pingel and those Petcocks are like $50 not including a custom mount...Any other options? Like from another bike?
I think with this fouled plug problem and the fuel delivery, I should be able to get it running consistently.
oh, and still for sale, btw...but now running! $800 OBO.
:)
The left carb has a fitting in the front and 1/2 way down and sorta looking at the right carb ... that's where it goes. The tops have vacuum spigots that should be capped off, the right side carb has the similar one to the left vacuum thing that has nothing on it. Its not drilled through and hence can be left alone.
The air sucking makes it run leaner on the left carb. Maybe.
The right is oil fouled - valve adjustment ??? when was that done.
BTW you check the auxillary ground. Small wire from negative of battery terminal to the wiring harness. That fitting being loose = 1 cyl cutting out. Which cyl - random ... depends on the bike.
Cool.
Srinath.
i was able to ride it with both side pumping, so something triggered it.
by valve adjustment, do you mean shims or something else?
i'll look at the carbs again and see if i can find what you're talking about. there look like 2 places it will fit on the left, one closer to the intake, and one closer to the engine. one is bigger than the other, but the tube will fit either.
i'll also check the ground connection.
thanks
Look at this pic:
http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Main/1989-2000 (http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Main/1989-2000)
The vacuum hose is number 42 on the diagram.
There are three hoses -- fuel supply, which goes to a "T" fitting between the carbs and low; a vent hose, which goes to a "T" fitting between the carbs and higher; and the vacuum hose, which attaches to a nipple on the left carb that points directly towards the right carb.
The vacuum hose has a 90 degree molded curve in it right where it attaches (see diagram).
Maybe that will help to ensure that all hoses are in the correct locations.
Oil fouling won't be caused by poor valve adjustment. Faulty valve stem seals, maybe. Bad rings, maybe. But not valve adjustment. Bad valve adjustment would show up in a compression test (especially a leak-down compression test), but wouldn't cause oil in the cylinder to foul the plugs.
so it's the nipple that is closer to the engine and thinner in diameter, correct?
i had it attached to the right carb. maybe that's the issue.
also, the engine is spitting back fuel , running rich. is this because i don't have the Wileyco on yet?
Quote from: baco99 on May 22, 2007, 08:53:19 AM
so it's the nipple that is closer to the engine and thinner in diameter, correct?
i had it attached to the right carb. maybe that's the issue.
also, the engine is spitting back fuel , running rich. is this because i don't have the Wileyco on yet?
As you sit on the bike, the carb on your left (closest to the shift lever) has the vacuum port for the petcock. It is small in diameter.
ok, i'll try that one. so that makes it the port closest to the engine then.
ok, i did as you suggested and swapped the vacuum line to the left carb. hit the switches and wroom, she started right up. held idle nicely.
thanks for all your help guys. if i decide to continue with this bike, i know what to expect. and if i decide to follow-thru with a sale, at least it can be ridden home.
the right fork seal is weeping. i think it needs the retainer clip put back in. the old one broke off and i had to order a new one. with that change, the new braided front line, and the exhaust, it will feel like a new bike.