So I went ahead and put in the stock air box but kept the same jets 22.5/60/142.5, Now my problem is when I rev it hesitates and also when I shift It hesitates when I go to give it gas. The bike will also hang sometimes when rev'd. I did not shim the needle I figured if the pods made me lean than the stock airbox should make me good or a little rich and the mixture screw is 1 turn out.
Stock box+ only 1 turn out :o I'm gonna guess mega rich :dunno_white:
Actually quite the opposite, only one turn out makes it uber-lean.
Or do you mean that you turned it 1 turn out from the previous position?
What filter are you running in the stock airbox?
your bike is probably running too rich. if it were lean, you wouldn't have the hesitation. it would just top out power wise and stay there. plus it'd be running really hot. here are some helpful carb sites:
http://hondanighthawks.net/carbhelp.htm
http://www.powroll.com/tech_specs_jetting.htm
Im running the stock paper filter and 1 turn out from it all the way screwed in. which way richens the mixture having the screw all the way in or all the way out.
this is what I found out about the problem.
Acceleration system problems
Carburetor acceleration system problems usually cause the engine to Hesitate, Stall, Pop, or Backfire when the car first moves. If the accelerater pump does not squirt a strong stream of fuel into the air horn as the throttles open, the mixture will be too lean for proper engine acceleration.
So I have almost the same problem except the stalling, and my bike hesitates when ever the gas is given and the diagnose is for a car carbureter.
You need to richen... It gets richer as you turn OUT 1 turn out isn't appropriate for ANY set up on a gs. Your rough setting should be 3 turns out.
Please check out the Jetting matrix available http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=4865.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=4865.0) here. Despite being for the E's it is still a good resource...
I have seen the jetting matrix and found it a little confusing. and since its hard to find out if I have a free flow exhaust or just a louder one that confuses me also. Im going to go three turns out when I get home from work tomarrow.
so , if you had a K&N on it instead of factory , plus have your rejet , you'd want to go about 1 turn out PAST the original setting (or 4 turns out from all the way in) ???
I'm trying to figure mine out ... haven't done it yet , but this post will a) let me know that little tidbit , and b)help me find this post again once I do my rejet lol :thumb:
I thought 4 turns out would drop the screws out?
It may fall out at 4 turns...I wouldn't go that far because then you'd be messed up anyway...
I have a free flow full system including a can off a cbr1000, and 150 mains and I'm only at 3.5 turns out give or take a tiny bit of fine tuning...
Fine tuning is difficult. There is no manual, there are no tricks, only the hand or in my case ear of experience. I think 99% of the problems people have when it comes to gs'es come from 1 of 3 problems. 1) Valve adjustment issues 2) Vacuum Leaks and 3) Improperly tuned bikes These little yuppy shops don't know how to properly work on bikes anymore...they're all trained to work on FI and not very many of them are good at carb tuning...sure they can swap jets synch carbs with special tools..big whoop... I learned from my father and my uncle who can both tune a bike better than a dyno (its been proven)
6+ turns brfore falling out.
Biggest difference between air box and no airbox is mains ... in some cases only difference is mains.
130 - 132.5 mains for air box and pipe. 1-2 up from stock max. Your mid mains are 2 sizes up right ... maybe go back to the 127.5 stock size.
1 up on pilots, 1 up om mains 1 washer is what I woud use, but you have mids, so no idea what you have to run for mains.
Cool.
Srinath.
so should I go back to stock( the can will make it lean) then go up to a 22.5 pilot, 65 mid main and since the 142.5 is still lean im going to get a few diferent sizes, 145,147.5,150and see which one is the best, I dont want to have to shim the needle if I dont have to.
N4
Not afraid just lazy :icon_mrgreen: that means I have to drive aaaaaaalllllllllll the way down to hoem depot and walk through that big ass store way too much work and walking. on a side not when I rejetted my carbs I noticed the big brass plug below the mixute screw was missing what does that plug do?
Not sure if your carbs are the same (I've gota '96). But the first time I rejetted, I lost (temporarily) the little o-ring in the corner of the carb assembly. ----> Vacuum Leak, same symptoms you described.. Not sure if that helps, but I damn near pulled my hair out trying to figure out what the hell, then I re-read the rejet instructions from this site, took the carbs apart (again... it gets much easier the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, .... time thru), found the little sucker was missing, looked around on my sidewalk where I was working, and BAM, it ran, well, like I read someone say before, 'like a raped ape'... Happy tuning!!!!