woodcraft or vortex. I just did the sonic springs in front and the katana rear shock. I feel like the front is a little high anyways riding height so i am going to lower the forks a little bit anyways. so, my question is, do i need to replace the lower handlebar holder plate or will the clip ons fit onto my oem holder?
aftermarket clip-ons attach to the fork tubes.
right, but i wanna raise the fork tubes and put them on top. would there be any trouble doing that?
Nope, I had my clip-ons like that & never had any trouble.
did mine that way a few weeks ago, no problems so far.
What brand and how did you put them on...do you have any pictures. I am considering doing this to my GS.
I am considering doing this for mine as well. My only apprehension is that there is no FAQ/Step-by-step to do the install and I don't want to mess anything up as my bike is my primary mode of transportation. Any DETAILED information about how to do this would be appreciated. I'm kinda skittish when it comes to messing around with upgrading. Just don't want to break anything. I know my upgrades on my car when I first started usually came out worse than before I started. :laugh: Thanks in advance! :thumb:
This quick write-up/how to details how to go from stock/aftermarket tubular bars (as the GS500E/F is setup from the factory) to aftermarket clip-on style handlebars which attach directly to the fork leg. This article assumes you have a *decent* selection of tools (just the standard allen-key/socket set is what I used, you can buy them at Sears) and have your bike cooled down (not freshly ridden), on level, dry pavement, and on the centerstand (or rear-stand if you don't have a centerstand anymore). This process took me 2 hours to do, and I was slow about it, working by myself and re-routing wiring at the same time as I had pulled my headlight assembly off.
1. Loosen handlebar controls (clutch perch, brake master, then each switch housing) until they are ready to come off. Your stock bars will be too long for them to come all the way off without going to step 2.
2. Remove chrome caps from handlebar mounting plates if they are still there, then loosen and remove 4 allen-head bolts which will allow your handlebars to lean to one side and swing down and ding your tank if you aren't careful.
3. Remove switches and levers from stock bars and hang down away from the hot engine. They will melt if they rest near the exhaust/head.
4. Throw stock bars into nearest river.
5. Open clip-on package. Make sure they are 37mm. Return to store and yell if they are not.
6. Loosen and remove all of the bolts included with the clip-ons, and wipe some anti-seize on the threads. Stainless or steel bolts going into the aluminum clip-on body is asking for a stuck/chemically seized bolt.
7. Re-assemble clipons.
8. Loosen the 2 allen-head fork tube pinch bolts on your top triple-clamp, as well as the two bolts on the lower triple-clamp (near the reflectors if you still have them). Do not remove these bolts.
9. Smack the top tripleclamp with your hand, or twist the fork tubes (shiny chrome parts, after you clean them up) up into the triple-clamp. You would effectively be lowering the front end of the bike, if you wanted to look at it another way. Either way you like to describe it, you need enough fork tube "above" the triple-clamp surface so you can slide the triple-clamp over, and bolt 'em on.
10. Bolt 'em on. (Depending on how you do it, step 11 may come before step 10. This is one I can't help you with).
11. Assemble switch-gear and the clutch perch/master cylinder onto clip-ons. If you haven't run aftermarket bars before, you'll have to decide whether you want to cut off the little plastic nub on the inside of the switches (locating nubs, so they don't twist around the bar), or drill a hole in the clip-on tube. I dremel'ed off the plastic nubs and haven't had any issues in 4.5 yrs of riding hard and commuting every day.
12. Re-torque all 4 fork pinch bolts to correct spec (not as tight as you'd probably think), and double-check every bolt on the clip-ons.
13. Add the fancy aftermarket bar-end sliders or weights you bought to dampen some of the road-noise and engine vibration. Your hands will go to sleep otherwise.
14. Enjoy your new-found capabilities on the track or down your favorite twisty road.
Thanks for the write up Mk1inCali! I now feel as if I MAYBE could do this to my F. :laugh:
So in essence, you're dropping the front end of the bike and pushing the fork tubes up? How much clearance do you need to install the clip-ons?
However thick the clip-on mounts are. My Vortex were around 4-5cm. Your first statement is correct. You are raising the fork tubes in comparison to the rest of the bike, which effectively lowers the front end. It also quickens the steering, but the GS is so relaxed as it is, and most folks running clipons are going to have a wider/heavier rear tire than the stock 130/70, that it is no problem. I had zero headshake issues while running at the track (one corner you dive into at WOT 6th gear and lay it all the way over, and hard on the brakes as you progressively straighten it back up.
You'll be fine, go for it!
What is the popular way to get rid of the bar clamp and mount the speedo/tach? I'm going to do the clip on but I don't know what to do with my bar clamp and speedo.
Just leave the stock bar clamp is how I dealt with that issue.
I've heard you can get a metalsmith to fabricate one for you. I think Airbrush mentioned he had one done with carbon fiber? Personally, I'd have to change it out too. I coudn't stand the sight of handlebar mounting plate without a handlebar. Maybe it's just me? :laugh:
the only thing I could think of to make it look half way acceptable to me is to chop a bar section and put it in the yolks so I could put a bar mount clock there...
i found some really cheap one's. thought about getting them later this year. http://oldbikebarn.com/part.php?id=3624&subcategory=Handle%20Bars&bike=&DisplayPerPage=20