do they make a stabalizer for a 06 gs?
are you talking about a steering damper?? if so, no. you could potentially weld on mounts and do a custom install.
There's really no point in a steering stabilizer for a GS, they don't make enough horsepower to lead you into a serious tankslapper. Hell, even a modern stock 600 is hard pressed to get into a bad spot unless you're just wreckless and land a wheelie all twisted. Also, the steering geometry is such that it inherently is resistant to tankslappers. Now take a 996, drop the forks an inch and a half and look out, but the GS just doesn't need one. If you've got $500 to drop on accessories, make a payment on a GSXR/CBR/YZF/ZX/Daytona, etc. or buy better gear.
what he said :thumb: :thumb:
HP has little to do with a tank slapper. I have seen them on bicycles. It mostly has to do with the steering angle and speed.
Quote from: dgyver on May 26, 2007, 08:07:02 PM
HP has little to do with a tank slapper. I have seen them on bicycles. It mostly has to do with the steering angle and speed.
Right, but you need the power to lift the front end enough so that the contact can be moved to one side without changing the direction of the rear, whether or not this comes from brute horsepower or going over a ridge, it's steering geometry that causes it. My only point is that with the GS's rake and trail, there's little chance of you running into one without some sort of massive wheelie gone awry and the bikes doesn't have the HP/torque for that, cresting a hill shouldn't throw you into a tankslapper.
Tank slappers have been an occurance since before the early 70's. HP back then was not much different than the GS has stock now. Wheelies are only a small part of the possible conditions. You can get them under braking (one of the most common), small weak forks that flex, low tire pressure, bad bearing or worn suspension parts are just a few other conditions...none of those have have anything to do with HP. I have experienced more wobbles under braking and those were all controlled with a damper.
So true dgyver, I had a 85 CB650SC that was prone to having headshake. Found out that if I took a hand off the bars while coasting thru the 40-50 mph range it would start to shake. New steering head bearings helped it but it came back and a new front tire helper it again for a short while but it came back. Some of the older bikes were just prone to shake which did occur most severly at higher speeds but power level had little to do with it. Keeping both hands on the bars was the only stabilizer I tried on that Nighthawk.
i really need one , any ideas what ill be lookin for?
Thanks
Quote from: Jay_wolf on May 27, 2007, 06:49:15 AM
i really need one , any ideas what ill be lookin for?
Thanks
You can buy one from Pro-Flo for around $110, a fork mount for another $40 and then fabricate a mount off of the bolt that holds on the lower frame loop. This is what I did for my track bike.
http://www.pro-flo.com/proflo_steering_damper.htm (http://www.pro-flo.com/proflo_steering_damper.htm)
Paul
PS I have done tank slappers on both of my GS 500's, none of them invlolved wheelies
Thanks Dude!
Perfect
You guys are talking about a wobble in the front end, that's not a tankslapper, and while a steering damper might help a wobble, the two are decidedly different. A wobble can be from worn head bearings, a warped rotor and unbalanced bike from luggage or any number of other causes. A tankslapper happens when you unload the front end and the front wheel breaks traction for a moment, when it makes contact again it is out of line with the rear tire. When this happens, it bounces back to the other side of the front tire in order to compensate (same theory as a highside, gyroscopic effect causes the front and rear tires to want to be aligned). This keeps on escalating, keeps on bouncing back and fourth stronger and stronger until you either break hard enough to defeat the bouncing, accelerate hard enough to lift the front end so as to straighten it again or simply crash.
My point was that the GS isn't really prone to unloading the front end unless it's intentional, therefore the need is minute. There's a reason that Scotts/Ohlins doesn't make a steering damper for them. Also, the reason that dampers have low speed damping and high speed damping is that one is for wobbles, one is for tankslappers, respectively.
Here's a pretty good explanation of what causes them and what to do:
http://www.joe250.com/motorcycles/ride/tankslapper.htm
Quote from: SmartDrug on May 27, 2007, 10:04:17 AM
You guys are talking about a wobble in the front end, that's not a tankslapper, and while a steering damper might help a wobble, the two are decidedly different. A wobble can be from worn head bearings, a warped rotor and unbalanced bike from luggage or any number of other causes. A tankslapper happens when you unload the front end and the front wheel breaks traction for a moment, when it makes contact again it is out of line with the rear tire. When this happens, it bounces back to the other side of the front tire in order to compensate (same theory as a highside, gyroscopic effect causes the front and rear tires to want to be aligned). This keeps on escalating, keeps on bouncing back and fourth stronger and stronger until you either break hard enough to defeat the bouncing, accelerate hard enough to lift the front end so as to straighten it again or simply crash.
My point was that the GS isn't really prone to unloading the front end unless it's intentional, therefore the need is minute. There's a reason that Scotts/Ohlins doesn't make a steering damper for them. Also, the reason that dampers have low speed damping and high speed damping is that one is for wobbles, one is for tankslappers, respectively.
I know the diefference between a wobble and a tank slapper. I starting racing bikes 25 years ago, and riding long before that. You are right that the GS is not prone to tankslappers, but if you ride any bike hard enough and slide the front end and then regain traction, you can start a tank slapper. Never assume someone elses ability or knowledge.
When i accellarate hard , in first gear , or second , sometimes the front used to come up a lil , and id get a lil wobble , not fun
lol
Quote from: D-Day on May 27, 2007, 01:00:35 PM
I know the diefference between a wobble and a tank slapper. I starting racing bikes 25 years ago, and riding long before that. You are right that the GS is not prone to tankslappers, but if you ride any bike hard enough and slide the front end and then regain traction, you can start a tank slapper. Never assume someone elses ability or knowledge.
Where did I assume anyone's ability? I was just pointing out that it's probably not necessary on a GS500 and explained why. I didn't once say anything about anyone's skill level or ability. I'm a decent rider, but certainly not the best rider on this board, nor do I pretend to be; but I do know a thing or two about tankslappers, enough to know that a stabilizer isn't really worth getting. If you're planning on buying a stabilizer as an extra margin of safety, you're better off buying a higher performance bike with a better suspension, better brakes and stickier rubber before you blow money on a useless part... that is all I was saying.
That maybe The Case Of A Bone Stock GS,
with a Kat front end , wheels , and shock , with little mods , i think it may be needed ,
Quote from: Jay_wolf on May 27, 2007, 02:44:01 PM
That maybe The Case Of A Bone Stock GS,
with a Kat front end , wheels , and shock , with little mods , i think it may be needed ,
Fair enough, how bad of a shake do you get though? I've had tankslappers and I've had wobbles, but I've never had a wobble turn into a tankslapper or even get to the point where I almost lost hold of the controls. This is the only reason I doubt the necessity of a steering damper, has anyone here had a wobble get progressively worse until you've lost control?
Neva Had One,. I kept My Balance And I Only Really did it on a straight , so i didnt get the chance , they look kool tho lol :thumb:
Quote from: SmartDrug on May 27, 2007, 02:57:39 PM
Quote from: Jay_wolf on May 27, 2007, 02:44:01 PM
That maybe The Case Of A Bone Stock GS,
with a Kat front end , wheels , and shock , with little mods , i think it may be needed ,
Fair enough, how bad of a shake do you get though? I've had tankslappers and I've had wobbles, but I've never had a wobble turn into a tankslapper or even get to the point where I almost lost hold of the controls. This is the only reason I doubt the necessity of a steering damper, has anyone here had a wobble get progressively worse until you've lost control?
Yeah, me, on a box stock Honda 400 four, and on any bike if it starts wobbling in the middle of a turn you are going to run wide, a damper will stop that. If one rides agressively, I don't think it is a waste of money, hell my 1977 BMW RS has one fitted stock from the factory.
I guess I'm wrong then, but I still would have to say that if this is a recurring problem then there are probably other issues that should be dealt with. I've ridden a number of bikes from over 4 decades and NEVER run into a tankslapper or wobble that was serious enough to cause me to want to invest in a steering damper with the exception of a Honda RC51 and an Aprilia RSV-R.
Still want one :P :thumb:
I have a problem with wobble.I checked head set bearings,all wheel bearings,balance,tires are new,and swing arm bearings.What gives?Nothing is loose or worn.The bike just rolled over to 5000 miles.It's constant between 50 and 70.Scared to go faster.It' doesn't happen in low speed curves unless I try to lay it over.High speed sweepers,usually the wobble starts about half way through.Do I need something to stop this?
tire pressure?
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on May 28, 2007, 03:53:47 PM
tire pressure?
My guess too, that or tire cupping/uneven wear
Try riding at about 10-15 mph, and removing your hands from the bars. Do the bars try to wobble, even just a little bit? I had that issue.. freaked me out.. then I realized I hadn't checked my tire pressures in a week, and had ridiculously little pressure. I can feel differences in my tires of about 3psi, that's where the bike starts to feel odd. Check your pressure every ride if possible, or at LEAST every other ride.
dude.. 34/40 is WAY high
IIRC, max pressures are 33/36
Drop the pressure, see how the bike responds.
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on May 28, 2007, 04:38:56 PM
Try riding at about 10-15 mph, and removing your hands from the bars. Do the bars try to wobble, even just a little bit? I had that issue.. freaked me out.. then I realized I hadn't checked my tire pressures in a week, and had ridiculously little pressure. I can feel differences in my tires of about 3psi, that's where the bike starts to feel odd. Check your pressure every ride if possible, or at LEAST every other ride.
Only starts to wobble above 50mph gets worse with speed.At 10 -15mph no problem.Checked psi,spot on.
I'm wondering if I may have a slightly out of round wheel or bent axle bolt.My new rear wheel and tire should be here soon.
Also,I am replacing front and rear disk,along with pads.All New parts.
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on May 28, 2007, 05:38:10 PM
dude.. 34/40 is WAY high
IIRC, max pressures are 33/36
Drop the pressure, see how the bike responds.
I will try that.My manual says 2 people or heavy rider set psi to 36/41.I weight 205+,in riding gear.Not tryin to start a war over psi.
Do ya think someone could have put a tube in the tires?I bought the bike a month ago with new rubber.The nubies were still on the tread.
Do not always trust your pressure gauge. I was running higher pressures for several years until I had my gauges checked against a calibrated digital gauge. One was 3 pounds high and the other was 2 pounds low.
It was not that big of deal since I ran what pressure worked the best, according to my gauge. I have since replaced those gauges. My ill handling of the gauges probably led to their inaccurancy.
Even digital gauges can be off, but he's right in principle, don't necessarily trust the gauge unless it's higher end. A $2 gauge from Walmart might not be accurate.
Quote from: SmartDrug on May 28, 2007, 07:34:58 PM
Even digital gauges can be off, but he's right in principle, don't necessarily trust the gauge unless it's higher end. A $2 gauge from Walmart might not be accurate.
My gauge is a $60 dial gauge,encased in a rubber housing.It reads 0-70 in 1 psi increments.
I take very good care of my gauge and store it properly after use.
Never trust a stick gauge.They are crap and make good book marks for your repair manual. :laugh:
Quote from: ben2go on May 28, 2007, 09:54:51 PM
Quote from: SmartDrug on May 28, 2007, 07:34:58 PM
Even digital gauges can be off, but he's right in principle, don't necessarily trust the gauge unless it's higher end. A $2 gauge from Walmart might not be accurate.
My gauge is a $60 dial gauge,encased in a rubber housing.It reads 0-70 in 1 psi increments.
I take very good care of my gauge and store it properly after use.
Never trust a stick gauge.They are crap and make good book marks for your repair manual. :laugh:
Where'd ya get it? I've been looking to pick up a nicer one.
Quote from: SmartDrug on May 28, 2007, 10:00:59 PM
Quote from: ben2go on May 28, 2007, 09:54:51 PM
Quote from: SmartDrug on May 28, 2007, 07:34:58 PM
Even digital gauges can be off, but he's right in principle, don't necessarily trust the gauge unless it's higher end. A $2 gauge from Walmart might not be accurate.
My gauge is a $60 dial gauge,encased in a rubber housing.It reads 0-70 in 1 psi increments.
I take very good care of my gauge and store it properly after use.
Never trust a stick gauge.They are crap and make good book marks for your repair manual. :laugh:
Where'd ya get it? I've been looking to pick up a nicer one.
I ordered mine from Summit Racing about 4 years ago.I can't remember the manufactures name.
It came with a 2 year warranty and I can send it in for calibration.If I can find the manual and get
the address.Mine shouldn't need calibrating,but it's nice to have the option.Here's a tip when looking
for an air gauge.Get one with a short nozzle.Mine is long and I have to bend my air valve to check
the psi.
Or buy a British bike (LIKE MINE, IT'S FOR SALE!!!!!)... I have 90 degree bent valve stems, makes checking pressure a 30 second job.