A Hex bolt has rounded it self off in the top yoke , thats holding the fork in it, it was old and rusted , and when i did a hard twist it rounded it really bad , now , it just rounds off even more when i try , is there any way to get it out ? if it helps its on the katana fork , its really stressed me out .
Thanks
Jay
looks like you are going to have to drill it out and use some taps to unscrew it. That is if its recessed
If not throw a pair of viese grips on that puppy and twist. :thumb:
good luck
i was afraid of that , that stupid owner before hand , cant keep bolts in good condition ,. if it was so rusted , grrr , damn , what are these taps your talking bout , ive neva heard of seen of these before
Yep, go to your local hardware store and get an ez-out kit or any screw extractor kit. You'll have to drill a hole in the middle and then tap in a screw that has teeth which bite into the metal, so that when you remove it the bolt comes with it. Alternatively if you have welding gear you could weld a t-handled bar on there and use that, but most people don't have equipment to do that sort of thing :)
does that not rip out the thread ?
Quote from: Jay_wolf on June 03, 2007, 06:52:54 AM
does that not rip out the thread ?
no
you'll obviously need a new bolt though. The hole you drill for the tapper is pretty small, as long as you get things centered in the bolt the threads should be fine.
Kool thanks . ill go look for one 2morrow, it stressed me out so much , this is the first day ive been able to tkae bits apart , and i get stopped boyt 10 mins into it , so annoying
Quote from: Jay_wolf on June 03, 2007, 06:22:27 AM
A Hex bolt has rounded it self off in the top yoke , thats holding the fork in it, it was old and rusted , and when i did a hard twist it rounded it really bad , now , it just rounds off even more when i try , is there any way to get it out ? if it helps its on the katana fork , its really stressed me out .
Thanks
Jay
If you can clamp vice grips on the bolt head, that's what I'd try first. Clamp them on as tight as possible, very, very tight. And then hit the vice grips with a hammer with short strong raps. Like an impact tool does. On tight bolts always use impact to break them loose, pulling hard and steady on a wrench is what rounds them off. If it's rusty around the bolt head a little Liquid Wrench or equiv will help if left to soak a bit. Soak from both sides unless it's in a blind hole. The ez-out is a last resort. :laugh:
Its Inside as such , like , its what a allen key goes into , its holding the top yoke to the fork , theres no way to get a vice round it , looks like a ez out :(
its gonna stop me using the kat front end if i cant use it :(
Bad day
S6
Thats Perfect! ill have to look in the hardware stores tomorrow
[8
I don't really see vise grips working on those, from what I recall they have a shallow rounded head and are pretty flush with the surrounding metal, I don't see any way to grab onto them. I think the ez out is going to be the only shot.
Quote from: Jay_wolf on June 03, 2007, 07:18:54 AM
Its Inside as such , like , its what a allen key goes into , its holding the top yoke to the fork , theres no way to get a vice round it , looks like a ez out :(
its gonna stop me using the kat front end if i cant use it :(
Bad day
OK, sounded like a hex head capscrew from your first post when it seems like it's a socket head capscrew like on the GS. Another shade tree mechanic suggestion since it's Sunday and you can't get those fancy tools till tomorrow at best.
Break off a piece of Allen wrench and drive it tight into the rounded hex socket hole. Use one that's about as big across the flats as the rounded out hole dia is. Then clamp the vice grips onto the hex bit and use impact to break it loose. Works like a stoneage ez-out. :laugh:
Those grade 8 socket heads are a Buddha Loves You to drill, you'll need some pretty good drill bits for ez-outs.
Another idea, not sure if it'd work because that's a big bolt, but if you have a dremel you could try to cut a slot in it to fit a flathead screwdriver. I'm not sure if you could get enough torque on a flathead to remove it though, but it might be worth a shot. It's an allen head so you might have to cut a slot all the way across and try using an old chisel or something instead of a screwdriver.
i think there torqued in pretty well . hmm damn it ,
Jay?
Sounds like you have a recessed socket-cap head bolt and if its fast enough in the part to cause the head to round out chances are it will be also be held fast enough to shear any easy-outs you may try (personaly I think they are an overated waste of time and money and I never use them) if that happens you have got BIG problems. Despite what you might read or hear drilling out broken bolts and cleaning out and re-tapping the thread or inserting helicoils is far from straightforward for someone with no basic metalworking knowledge or experience of what is involved. Its quite likely you will damage the part beyond repair. Given that the bolt holds the fork in place its safety critical and you cant afford to take chances.
Find a local Engineering company or machine shop, take the part to them and get them to remove the bolt. They will have all the gear and the knowhow to machine the bolt out and reclaim the thread without damaging the part in the process. It might cost you about £20-30 but it will be done properly.
The front ends attached to a bike , ive stripped most of it for parts , its not going to be easy to get it over to a machine shop.
im pretty damn annoyed about the whole thing , the one on the otherside
had to be tapped with a rubber mallet , to free it , there in there very tight ,
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/James_Jay_Wolf/03062007372.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/James_Jay_Wolf/03062007371.jpg)
Heres The Pics Of The Bolt
Nice pics, easily worth a thousand words. Looks like you could drive the short leg of a slightly larger Allen wrench into that rounded socket and tap the longer leg to break it loose after soaking everything with Liquid Wrench and giving it time to work. Particularly soak the bolt threads in the clamping gap of the top triple.
Failing that you could always hacksaw thru the bolt in the clamping gap releasing the fork tube for disassembly. That top triple could then be worked on at home or at a shop or even replaced if it comes to that.
i did reliese that the pics would of helped alot more., Nokia n93 ,. 3.2 megapixal cam :thumb:, very good at detail lol
thats what i was thinking to jack , also , what is liquid Wrench?
[9
I've been using a lot of Liquid Wrench on my rusty GS since I've been riding it thru the winter splashing thru much salt water on the streets of NE Ohio. It was particularly helpful recently in freeing those brake pad retainer pins that get frozen in the caliper casting each winter.
http://www.gunk.com/lubricants.asp
If not available there, you must have a similar product. It really works given time to penetrate.
Its better than WD 40?
is there anyway you can get a front on view?
as in a pic ., yea i can do , il take a pic for u now
Im not sure where ill find a 6.5 mm , as the bolt is a 6 mm
Guys?
Look at the big picture. With the greatest of respect to Jay and despite his willingness he doesnt know half of what it is we are even talking about!! He doesnt know what an easy-out is, what a tap is, no-one has told him what size drills to use, suggested a speed or even stated the obvious in dot-punching the center of the broken bolt before pilot boring it to prevent the drill wandering. I think you are giving him false hopes, the instructions are vauge and you can not realistically expect him to do this without hands-on 3rd party help.
How many guys have been in here for advice then tried to drill out broken header-bolts and screwed up big time?
OK thats me, I have said enuff on the subject now.
If worse comes to worse , ill saw it , then get a machine shop to extract b oth parts , or by a new top . i need 2 get this bike apart really ,