OK my bike seems to have developed a small problem after adding the pods and rejetting. The bike is stock except for the pod filter from K&N. 140 mains, 40 pilots, 2 washers and the mixture screw turned out 3 turns.
When I first start it with choke it revs up ok then the revs start to go down so I take more choke out so it stays around 3k and when the revs start to go down again I give it less choke etc etc until it has no choke and it idles about 1-1.2k. If I add choke to it it just dies unlike before it would rev up to like 4-5k. If I blip the throttle to about 2k and back off it dies sometimes and others it just revs real real low then comes back up. I turned the idle screw up so now when the engine gets warm after riding it revs at 2-2.2k, but if I turn it down when I start it again once its cooled it idles too low to run. It also kinda bogs off the line unless I give it gas and keep on the throttle unlike before where I had to give it some revs to start it off then kinda ease of. Should I take some turns out of the mixture screw? Washers from the needle? This is the only problem otherwise it runs like a champ all the rest of the way. No hanging idle, no popping or backfire.
Thanks?!
Its rich at low rpm. Screw in the mix screw 1/2 turn at a time. However you have taken off the airbox and have a K&N clamp on filter and are using the stock needles. I think 140 mains are a little small. I use 150's with the same setup. Oh ok stock pipe...maybe 140 will be fine. Even so 145 may be more like it but I never run that setup. So no idea.
Cool.
Srinath.
I think someone posted they ran 140 mains with stock pipe and it ran good but I forgot how many turns they did on the mixture screw and if they used 2 washers, so I pulled from you stage 3 jetting info with the 3 turns and 2 washers.
Well the 3 turns is only a starting point. Its externally adjustable so I am not too concerned with it. Washers I believe 2 is about fine for your situation. But I am guessing 140 may be a little too small. Between aftermarket and stock pipes I see just 1-2 size differences. So to your setup adding a pipe will make 150 the right size. So in your case 145 is what I'd try. However before you run out and buy and swap them out I'd try the 140's in various conditions. Hot day, cold day, humid day, night etc. I prefer to test my jetting around the coldest times of the year. Most of the good jetting work I did were in January in Canada riding to and back from work in the dead cold and dark times.
Cool.
Srinath.
What kind of signs will I see if its lean? Right now weather here is 70-85max out and pretty humid.
In a lean situation the bike gets worse when cold. The problem spots will be bigger and deeper problem spots.
Cool.
Srinath.
Ok was messing with some stuff today and decided to turn the screws in all the way after reading all the way in should be the richest and if my jets are a tad lean then that should help. I previously had it at 2 turns out and before that 3 turns out. 3 turns it dies if I give it a little throttle blurp or it pops. 2 turns out the revs just kinda dropped down another 200-400 below idle then came back up but otherwise seemed to run ok. So going on 3 sucked 2 was better I was thinking none would be great! WRONG! Now it wants to rev hang around 3-4k more so when the engine is hot like it was after 45min in 5mph interstate traffic. But it would do it after running for a bit or at a stop I could rev it up some and it would stay at 3-4k and other times it would go right back down. Also when I went to no turns out I had to raise the idle screw up a few turns. Also could hear small burp backfires at idle. Also didnt seem to have as much power as the 2 turns. Guess I am gonna try 1 turn and go from there.
Pilot screws can work one of two ways - some are pilot AIR screws adjusting the amount of air going in with the fuel and pilot FUEL screws that control the amount of fuel with air pretty much fixec by position of either the slide or the butterfly and the cutout at the bottom of either or both of those.
The GS500 carbs have pilot FUEL screws. the further out they are, the more fuel the are letting in at idle. Basic adjustment strategy is to adjust to a factory set point (I believe its either 2 or 2 1/2 turns out) then set the idle to about 1100 with the idle adjustment screw - then in 1/4 turn increments open (or close) the pilot screws - you want to go in the direction where the idle speed increases. When you find the point where it idles fastest - go back in 1/4 turn on both and then adjust the idle speed to about 1100 or 1200 with the idle adjust screw.
When you turned the screws in all the way to lightly bottomed you made things way too lean - go back out to 2 1/2 and start adjusting. It also sounds like some of your problems could be the floats set wrong and a need for syncronization.
Yep figured that with the screws. Tried 1 out and it wasnt as good as 2. 3 out and its too rich and bogs. Now I need to balance the carbs..gonna make that DIY balancer and do it.