First - I PROMISE I have searched and read and even tried the suggestions in most of the gazillion 'stalling' posts!! I've been riding a year and have put 11K on my 04 gs500f. I ride with two very experienced guys, but they mostly like to wrench Italian :laugh:
Problem - stalling, even when warm, when clutch pulled in, down shifting, off throttle, coming from above 35pmh or higher to a stop light...or even moving off highway to exit ramp. It's a quiet stall with no kick or sound or smell of gas or smoke.
History - Bought bike with 300 miles on it last June. Now has 11K. Stock except last summer, I did have the Suzuki official modified cam kit put it b/c it was one of those bikes with that knocking issue (could this possibly be related???)
No problems with this sweet thing until April. Bad battery cell/bike dead. Did have to jump start it from electric car :dunno_white: to get it home. That was replaced.
A few days later, after I gased up (I swear it wasn't diesle, but that was the speculation) - blew white smoke and had a jerky/choking kind a ride. Drained the tank, new gas and seafoam. Changed the plugs.
In May, went on a 1200 mile round trip (to the Delta - wonderful trip) NO PROBLEMS
BUT for the past month the above problem started...and is progressively getting worse
Attmpted fixes - "serviced" (the quotations indicate sarcasm) for 7500 miles and stalling issue. They didn't address the stalling issue nor synch carbs but it wasn't stalling for other people riding it (the service guy). Convinced that I'd gotten into a bad habit of some sort that was making me stall the bike, I rode that weekend - but its not me!
back in to shop - a hose going into the carb was leaking air - CARBS SYNCHED and hose fixed. Rest of 7500 service done. VALVES in spec.
Still doing it - I've ridden over hard bumps pre and post this problem, so could it still be the FLOATS?? We adjusted the IDLE upward. It was resting at 12K, but we've bumped it to 14K and still doing it. Is it possible that the tachometer reads higher than it's idling? Cuz if doesn't feel/sound 14...but lower. FUEL FILTER changed. AIR FILTER changed. OIL fine.
What next? Where do I go or "guide" the service department into looking? Help?!!
Thanks!
Carlie
No help? Oh man...this is day number two of my bike in the shop and they have no idea what to do....
I'm starting to have slight palpitations with worry!!
Are you absolutely sure that the fuel petcock on the tank is in its fully open position? If not, fuel starvation can occur.
I would have them, or you if you are wrench oriented, clean out/replace the entire fuel delivery to the carbs. You may even need to remove the pick-up in the tank and clean it out.
It sounds like fuel starvation of a sorts. I wonder about debris in the fuel pick-up, hoses, vacuum diaphragm, petcock, and hoses to the carbs. That's easier than pulling the carbs off. Just make sure the hoses go to right places. We've had more than one GSTwinnner pull a tank and get them crossed up.
Was the mysterious fuel purchased at an place you usually don't fuel up?
That incident seems to be a nexus in this tale.
Carlie,
I ride with Carlie and her husband.
The thing about this is I've watched it happen and it can go for days and work fine then it just gets worse and worse. My thought, the bike sat for a long time, she bought it last year and only had about 4oo miles on it, thinking she's got some debris somewhere intermittently interupting fuel flow. Checking and changing all the lines seems like a good place to start now after all other things done.
Another thing mentioned in another thread http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=36278.0
The carbs may need cleaning. I too was thinking a float issue.
Chris
may sound silly but try opening the gas cap and closing it, may be a vacuum problem
Might check for water in the gas tank... probably look like a dirty "blob" oozing around the bottom.
Use a good quality, sealed flashlight, not a lighter, please.
Quote from: Wrecent_Wryder on June 28, 2007, 06:05:21 PM
Might check for water in the gas tank... probably look like a dirty "blob" oozing around the bottom.
Use a good quality, sealed flashlight, not a lighter, please.
But i use my trusty zippo for everything, besides whats the worse that could happen :dunno_white:. :laugh: :laugh:
Well, I've fueled up more than once since this problem, so the gas cap has been opened and closed, so that isn't it (but thanks).
Could this be related in anyway (thinking fuel lines) - before the stalling issue started, I was riding along and the bike felt like it was running out of gas. Choking and stammering then cut off and coasted. My trip odometer pin had fallen out so I wasn't being as careful with watching my milage as usual - I assumed I was out of gas, put it on reserve and got to a station. It wasn't completely low when I filled up - and that was a surprise.
Since then, I can pinpoint that this problem started and is increasing in frequency.
ALSO today - finally - another person rode the bike and experienced it three times. So it's not just me and that I don't know how to ride....
Thanks for the tips - will look along the fuel lines...
Carlie
Cndnmx- last time I used a zippo to look into a fuel tank - I dropped the lighter.
Pretty bright after that!
:laugh:jk - I'd only use a disposable to do that work!
Quote from: blueskygal on June 28, 2007, 06:11:16 PM
Cndnmx- last time I used a zippo to look into a fuel tank - I dropped the lighter.
Pretty bright after that!
:laugh:jk - I'd only use a disposable to do that work!
:laugh: :laugh: it would make an ausome fireball though, that is if it doesn't blow the tank 20ft in the air .
i am having the EXACT same problem so hopefully it can be resolved. i was thinking of a complete carb rebuild on mine, get the head gaskets changed, compression check and valve adjust. but i think it may be just a gummy line problem huuuhhhhhh gummmy lines
Also, see if it happens with the petcock turned to Prime. May be a faulty/sticking diaphragm valve.
i thought prime sent less fuel
Not if the vacuum that only allows fuel to flow in the on position when the bike is running has a leak. ie a faulty petcock diaphragm :thumb:
Thanks for the tips, everybody - the bike sits in the shop with a list of all the things mentioned on this thread for the mechanic to check out. Starting with fuel pet chicken and working to floats then carb.
There are times when I wish I was a man - usually when I am speaking with mechanics and salesmen. :mad:
Starwalt - I keep going over the the mysterious fuel issue as well - it was a gas station that I don't usually use, and noone else gassed up at the pump I used nor with the grade gas I used either. But then I think it traces back to the day I had to put it on reserve....
I just want it fixed so I can ride this weekend....I've a new textile/mesh jacket due to arrive today!!!
Hate to harp on it, but did you look for water in the tank?
Air in the tank cools (usually in the evening, but maybe moving to shade) and water condenses out. It runs to the bottom, and since it's now underneath the gas, it can't evaporate, can't go anywhere. Over time it builds up... and eventually it gets to the point where by sloshing around, rusty water can get in the reserve tube (first), then much later might even get in the primary "on" tube.
The thought you express that the problem may date from when you had to put it on reserve seems to fit this scenario.
Wrecent Wryder - sorry I didn't answer your suggestion - Yes - that was one of the first areas examined when this problem first started - in fact, we drained the tank, examined interior with a flashlight ( no zippos here :nono:), put higher oct fuel and seafoam and ran that tank thru. In the beginning the problem was much more intermittent. The tank did not appear rusty, but I didn't take it off.
When the stalling became more frequent, I once again looked at the gas/tank and no problems. Is there another way to look more efficiently?
I just went up to the shop to check on it - they have the list I dropped off yesterday of you guys' suggestions - and will try to get to it Monday.
Drumming my fingers on the table and pacing the halls....amazing how attached I am to this little bike!! Thanks for your help!
Quote from: blueskygal on June 30, 2007, 01:46:10 PM
Wrecent Wryder - sorry I didn't answer your suggestion - Yes - that was one of the first areas examined when this problem first started - in fact, we drained the tank, examined interior with a flashlight ( no zippos here :nono:), put higher oct fuel and seafoam and ran that tank thru. In the beginning the problem was much more intermittent. The tank did not appear rusty, but I didn't take it off.
When the stalling became more frequent, I once again looked at the gas/tank and no problems. Is there another way to look more efficiently?
I just went up to the shop to check on it - they have the list I dropped off yesterday of you guys' suggestions - and will try to get to it Monday.
Drumming my fingers on the table and pacing the halls....amazing how attached I am to this little bike!! Thanks for your help!
Not a problem, didn't mean to create an obligation, just hoping it might be something simple. :) If it was there in large enough quantity to get into the petcock, I'm sure you would have seen it.
I know what you mean by "attached", it was almost two weeks without riding while I fixed a recent oil leak. First time I really empathized with those who want multiple bikes.
Wrecent said - "I know what you mean by "attached", it was almost two weeks without riding while I fixed a recent oil leak. First time I really empathized with those who want multiple bikes."
Just 30 minutes ago, I went to dinner with DH who has 2 bikes and one of my best friends who has 3 bikes - and I said those very words "I NEED a back up bike"!!! I hope you got your oil leak fixed!!
make sure the little holes in the gas cap are clear, especially if your problems tend to come up in hot weather
If the problem doesn't happen under load it's not lacking fuel. If it was a starvation problem then all the bike would want to do is idle and at WOT she would buck choke and die same goes for the peacock. Check the coil and the ignition control module.
Quote from: blueskygal on June 30, 2007, 04:15:38 PM
I hope you got your oil leak fixed!!
Thanks, yes, I kept tuning it while all this was going on, and it's riding better than it ever has (saying that in a post is probably enough to jinx it).
In fact, I rode for about 90 miles yesterday, just enjoying that feeling, a glorious day out when everything is working smoothly and perfectly.
Tell me again about how this is saving gas? ;)
General Bump for curiousity's sake---
Quote from: blueskygal on June 30, 2007, 01:46:10 PM- in fact, we drained the tank, examined interior with a flashlight ...
One would hope the Seafoam would rid the carbs of any water accumulation that *may* have gotten in there. I also thought that if H2O were in the fuel tank, it could be hitching a ride to the carbs intermittantly. It would settle in the bottom of the carbs and as the bike was moved about, get mixed in with the good stuff. That usually explains the rusty crap found in the belly of neglected carbs.
I hope the shop drains the carbs as well as other checks. Tis a shame our little GSs don't have more brains to tell us what is going on. On the other hand, if they were too smart, they might tell us what for! :laugh:
The bike sits in the shop. Still. Mostly cuz I made the sales manager mad at me, so he ordered that my bike be serviced last after any other bikes. I know this b/c he bragged to me about it today. :mad:
The good thing is that the mechanic allowed me to come back and watch him do a few things (bike went up on the rack at 5p and they close at 6p). Smart guy and walking me thru everything. SO FAR - the floats are fine, the lines from tank to carb are clear. The carb is clear but the o-rings around a valve - type screw had tiny pieces of debris and some darkened areas. The diaphragms in the carb are fine. The air filter was due for a change at the service a few weeks ago, but they didn't change it out b/c they didn't have one in stock. And that was all that they got to do.
So no riding for me until this weekend, fingers crossed!!
Quote from: blueskygal on July 03, 2007, 08:28:37 PM
The bike sits in the shop. Still. Mostly cuz I made the sales manager mad at me, so he ordered that my bike be serviced last after any other bikes. I know this b/c he bragged to me about it today. :mad:
Gee, what'd ya do to tick him off so much? And on top of that, what kind of shop would punish a customer for having a problem? :cookoo:
Do we all need a group hug and sing the
Barney song? (http://pbskids.org/barney/)
:laugh: :cheers:
Starwalt - all ya gotta do to piss off a mechanic wannabe manger type who seems to like steroids and alcohol is ...
be a female who won't take BS answers to her questions. It's real easy to do!! Sorry - I generalize and don't mean any harm. I am just still angry.
Basically, I wouldn't let the guy pat me on the head and tell me "there, there, dearie, it's just a motorcycle"....
UPDATE - they took the carb apart and put it back together and....took it for a test ride and....still stalling. :cry: They suggested I go ahead and take it on my 1200 mile round trip vacation planned for today and see if it happens to me too. :o I just grabbed the bike and got out of there as fast as I could....which wasn't too fast cuz she was stalling on me...and took her to a noncertified zuki shop.
But the mechanic formerly raced suzukis and is a small shop. I gave him the history and he listened to everything and just went step by step thru the differential you guys gave me. He has a few ideas - and is going to pull the carb out again.
I am driving my Sky on vacation. Please keep your fingers crossed for me!! thanks for your help!
I was going to recommend another wrencher as it was obvious they couldn't help you much. If they had just come out and told you they didn't have a clue why the bike was stalling/dying, at least they would have your respect. Also, there is no incentive for a shop to do warranty work before paid work. That's just bad customer relations and service.
This reminds me of a visit to my personal automechanic a couple of weeks ago...
I was ferrying a car to him and in the first bay was a 68 Camaro. It seems noone in town could keep it running on idle. Classis Edelbrock manifold, Holley 4 barrel, etc. No ECU, no sensors, no EFI, etc. Just points, distributor, a coil, and a battery. The "new age" auto techs didn't know what to do with a machine that didn't connect to a computer.
My mech had it purring in about 15 minutes. The owner is going to get in soooo much trouble with that car. :laugh:
I give up. What's a "Sky"?
A Saturn Sky ? ive got testdrive unlimited , its on there :thumb:
I'm looking forward to the solution to this stalling prob. Sounds like they've given the entire fuel system a good look...
Therefore I'm betting electrical - like maybe the signal amp or whatever the gs 500 has that does the job of breaker points ???
Quote from: Jay_wolf on July 07, 2007, 01:58:45 PM
A Saturn Sky ? ive got testdrive unlimited , its on there :thumb:
Yep, I've got a great Saturn Sky that is my second vehicle - usually try to ride the bike! I love the car. What is "testdrive unlimited"??
Quote from: bigfatcat on July 08, 2007, 03:55:58 PM
I'm looking forward to the solution to this stalling prob. Sounds like they've given the entire fuel system a good look...
Therefore I'm betting electrical - like maybe the signal amp or whatever the gs 500 has that does the job of breaker points ???
I am looking for a solution to this stalling problem too. OK - I picked it up from the second shop today. After tearing down the carb and cleaning it out, they found some oil/crude on the 'valve cut off' which he says is and ELECTRICAL plug. They cleaned it off (only exterior). I cannot find it in my Clymer.
I drove 5 miles and it was idling at 3500 in first at the stop lights. I went right back to the shop and he adjusted the idle down. Drove to the end of the block and it stalled.
I came home and got my mechanix glove and drove around town pulling over, upping the idle....downing the idle....I cannot get the bike back to it's happy place.
Just to share how desparate I am - I did all this tweaking this afternoon between hail storms, gusts of wind, pouring rain and lots of other stuff.
WHAT DO I DO NEXT ??? Electrical? Keep bumping around the idle?? Isnt that a bandaid?? Start praying or put an ad in the paper??!! NO I love my bike!!
Thanks!
Carlie
I think you need to get a fuel injected bike!! ;)
I'm at a loss too, I told Carlie I'd ride it for a long period this weekend and duplicate the prob. I've tried to figure out how a rider could input that would cause these intermittent probs and just cant.
I 'm beginning to think electrical, The other thing I considered was clutch drag stalling the bike but it even does it higher gears.
Chris
OH OH OH - AND I forgot to add this piece -
the idle will not stay where I adjust it. eg - if I set it at 1200 and then ride a bit, it changes either up or down. Not just cold/hot bike. But I was riding around for hours this afternoon - it will change thru out the ride.
Is that any clue?
forlorned in columbus ga
Carlie
Dunno, but I'm thinking electrical now.
1. You said it cuts out with no sputtering or distress signals. Much more likely to be electrical than fuel from that.
2. You mentioned that it doesn't "sound" as if it's idling as fast as the tach says it is. That's sort of subjective, but does it always sound the same? Maybe it's running on one cylinder at idle? Maybe intermittently?
I think I'd shift from focusing on fuel to focusing on spark. After the time when you "might" have gotten diesel or bad fuel, have the spark plugs been pulled? Anyone actually checked for spark in each at idle?
Just a thought.
What year is it? The later models have a TON of hoses and places for a vacuum leak...
Quote from: Wrecent_Wryder on July 12, 2007, 06:00:41 AM
Dunno, but I'm thinking electrical now.
1. You said it cuts out with no sputtering or distress signals. Much more likely to be electrical than fuel from that.
2. You mentioned that it doesn't "sound" as if it's idling as fast as the tach says it is. That's sort of subjective, but does it always sound the same? Maybe it's running on one cylinder at idle? Maybe intermittently?
I think I'd shift from focusing on fuel to focusing on spark. After the time when you "might" have gotten diesel or bad fuel, have the spark plugs been pulled? Anyone actually checked for spark in each at idle?
Just a thought.
What year is it? The later models have a TON of hoses and places for a vacuum leak...
Its an 04, plugs were changed after the possible diesle incident, BUT you bring up good question if spark was checked at idle - not sure about that. Something else to check. How would we be able to tell if running on only one cylinder during idle? The idle is sooo erratic - it is like it has a mind of its own now!!
Thanks!!
When I had erratic idle ages ago, it was time to do the valves.
I would adjust the idle and when it got hot the idle would shoot up pretty high.
I would adjust it down and it would be too low.
Even when it was full warmed up the idle was not consistent.
Would have to rev it high when taking off to keep it from stalling.
Felt like it was lacking power when taking off.
Just because they said the did the valves does not mean they did them
or did them correctly.
Carbs get blamed for too much stuff.
On the other hand there is nothing like a FI bike.
Can be 15 degrees and I hit the starter on my V-Strom and it just starts.
Good luck.
Quote from: blueskygal on July 12, 2007, 08:27:45 AM
Its an 04, plugs were changed after the possible diesle incident, BUT you bring up good question if spark was checked at idle - not sure about that. Something else to check. How would we be able to tell if running on only one cylinder during idle? The idle is sooo erratic - it is like it has a mind of its own now!!
Thanks!!
Sorry, I missed this...
Well, the easiest way to test is one that I hesitate to recommend. That's just pulling the plug wires, one at a time, when it's idling. It should start "loping" when you pull either plug wire. If one kills the engine, and the other makes no difference, then you've established which cylinder is not firing.
The reason I hesitate to mention it is that the plug wires can give you a heck of a jolt. I've never done it with a bike, and the last time I did it was with an older car where the coil was a lot bigger (used to be one coil for ally the cylinders), but it was not pleasant. If you're not careful, or you're better grounded than you expected when you grab hold of that wire... well, I've never actually heard of anyone being killed that way, but for a fraction of a second you may well be in doubt...
You can also take the plug out, put the wire back on it, ground it, and see if it's sparking. You still have to be careful, though, and that just tells you that there's spark, not that the cylinder is actually firing.
I wonder if the TPS has a burn in . To check that yourself all you need is a DMM set to DC volts and probe the signal wire and ground out the other probe. Then just open the throtle slow and watch the volt climb ( from 0 to 5 volts) and backoff slow. You must do it real slow because the DMM is only refreshed about 4 times a second. You should see the volts cllimb smoothly . If when you are backing off the throtle it just jumps down to 0 volts that could be your problem. TPS sensors do wear out beacuse of the mechanical contacts inside them. If that checks out fine the plug wires need to be check. If they have a high resistance the wires could be using up all the energy that is needed to make the spark. Some IGN. control MODs only use a small dwell time at idle ( when the throtle is closed ). If that is the problem the spark is being blown out at the higher rpms when the throtle is being closed. I had a Toyota once that did the same thing when getting off the freeway and the only problem was the plug wires, replaced them and the problem just went away. :cheers:
'nother thing to check that just occurred to me because it's happening to me, and it's such a "duh" thing that I didn't think to check it... what's the inside of the tank look like? Mine developed some decent surface rust, and I believe it's that which is causing my problem.
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on July 14, 2007, 09:57:21 AM
'nother thing to check that just occurred to me because it's happening to me, and it's such a "duh" thing that I didn't think to check it... what's the inside of the tank look like? Mine developed some decent surface rust, and I believe it's that which is causing my problem.
Oh - thanks - actually that was one of the first things checked - with my zippo ;) (see earlier post) but it looks fine! What are you doing to do about your rust??
Test Drive Unlimited , is a game on the xbox 360, its gota few bikes on it as well , namly the Zx10 :thumb:
Quote from: blueskygal on July 15, 2007, 12:38:42 PM
Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on July 14, 2007, 09:57:21 AM
'nother thing to check that just occurred to me because it's happening to me, and it's such a "duh" thing that I didn't think to check it... what's the inside of the tank look like? Mine developed some decent surface rust, and I believe it's that which is causing my problem.
Oh - thanks - actually that was one of the first things checked - with my zippo ;) (see earlier post) but it looks fine! What are you doing to do about your rust??
gonna either pay a radiator shop to line it, or do kreem myself.. not sure yet. Also heard of this stuff called red-kote.. gonna look into it.
Boy, I'm drunk. That was amazingly coherent.. go me... Jay, I think you posted in the wrong thread..
NGFL , what is was, some asked what a Sky was , so i sed it was a Satern Sky , its on a game , i had never even heard of the car before that , and then blue asked me what test drive unlimited was ... :dunno_white:
THanks, Jay, I had no idea the Sky was in a game - how cool! It's a great car!
Anybody know about the Solenoid? COuld this problem be related to that? (erratic idle and cutting off??) Thanks.
NGFL - don't drive, just post!!
Hi BlueSky,
Actually, I thought your name meant you love Wyoming, or Willie Nelson ("Blue SKies"). :)
And to answer your Q, your bike's problem has nothing to do with the starter solenoid. That is an electrical switch that activates the starter when you hit the starter button. It has nothing to do with your cutting out and stalling issues.
Just to check... If you've done all the carb and fuel flow checks and all is well...
Have you checked your coil wires where they come out of the coils? Sometimes they can come loose. You can see multiple posts about this by doing a search of the site.
Has a mechanic done charging system checks to be sure the alternator and rectifier/voltage regulator are working properly?
And have you checked every single charging system wire to be sure that it is connected and not shorted?
Had the bike ever fallen over or been crashed? This is a critical question... here's why...
If so, often an often overlooked sliced or damaged wire at a handlebar switch can be the culprit, particularly the kill switch (a short there would cause it to die) or at the clutch lever safety switch.
I'd even check the sidestand safety switch to be sure it is not shorting out. You can unplug it and put a jumper wire across the connectors to take the switch out of the system to test to see if it is working properly or not.
This is a bugger of a problem, your bike has.
Keep us informed as you try these things...
Yours,
Todd
Your first post in this thread says you got jumped started from an 'electric car' - hope that was 12 volts, was it ?
You recently replaced battery - are you sure the positive post has the original insulation cover, and the battery is firmly secured so that it can't shift around ? cuz your first post sounds like the bike stalls as you decelerate, come off the throttle, exit freeway to ramp where something electrical is moving around enough to ground to the frame, possibly killing the primary ignition circuit.
Do you still have the erratic idle ? Seems that occured after you had the carbs rebuilt ?
Thanks!! Now I've got another list of items to try - will have to say that neither the coils nor every electical wire was checked. The bike has 'fallen over' a few times, but long ago before the problem started. "fallen over" as in newbie dropping it in the driveway. :oops:
The erratic idle DOES seem to have appeared since the carbs redone, however, maybe I just didn't notice it cuz the problem is the same...altho is occuring more.
I will follow up on the battery issue (yes 12 volt jump) and ensure it's secure. I believe it is. The voltage off of it was fine.
The bike starts up fine and at speed runs great. Decel/stopping....cuts out. I'll follow up on these tips! Thanks so much!!! :bowdown:
bumping this to see how it turned out ??????
Y'all aren't gonna believe this - but my bike is STILL in the shop. I have the state and regional reps aware and giving the current mechanic suggestions and a Suzuki Case Worker!!
I've heard every possible explaination under the sun -
-the stalling being a result of my "abberant riding behavior"
-I've put too many miles on the bike in a year (11K in 11 months)
-I wore the bike out
-It's a woman rider thing
For a week they were going to take out the 04 carbs and replace them w/ a pre-04 carb....but another rep suggested to look in a different direction.
All in all - every mechanical road that the mechanic takes - doesn't come up with an answer. I've taken lists of all that you folks have recommended here to the mechanic and they've tried most of them. American Suzuki has heard me on numerous occasions say "the guys on the forum are suggesting....."!!!
We are getting no where - and I need to ride. SO while my first love sits in the shop, I did buy a Kawi 650R. Cuz I am thinking Thanksgiving when a true fix is found.
IS ANYONE HAVING ANY STALLING TROUBLE on their 04s??? and thanks for all your help.
To expand on what BlueskyG says, I was there at the shop with her and her hubby today. These are the suggested points to look at by the official suzuki rep.
!st check to make sure a valve is not tight (no one thinks that's the case but we have to do this methodically or suzuki might deny payment)
2nd. the o-rings under the boots below the carbs, not sure what the boots are but the o rings there are to be checked.
3rd.the rep feel it's an air leak somewhere in the intake so that's the next step.
Told BGG, if it were me, I'd dump this thing on ebay with the issue being fully described and get whatever I could for it, since she's gotten another ride now.
Thanks for expanding on my post, Chris, I actually was going to ask you to add that as I did glaze over a bit when we were in the shop....
This is just a wild shot in the air...
is the carb breather hose blocked?
Quote from: galahs on August 26, 2007, 04:42:13 AM
This is just a wild shot in the air...
is the carb breather hose blocked?
Well, nothing is a wild guess at this point -but they did check that hose in the beginning and found a leak, actually, replaced it> we were hopeful that was the answer, but...not.
Spoke with American Suzuki again - and if the above plan doesn't work, they will send one of their area travelling technicians to the dealer to look at that bike. Actually I am hoping we find the problem this week.
UPDATE
It's now nearly 3 months with this bike being in the shop -
and American Suzuki is sending a mechanic to the bike.
Maybe....maybe....maybe... (But after 3 months of this - my hopes are NOT up)
I feel like I should take bets on what they'll find!!!
Cautiously optimisitic, I am.
Have they checked the TPS yet ? This sound like a funky tps to me, he!l if it is not adjusted right this could happen. Have you ever adjusted the idle? If you have then the tps is not adjusted right. ( if anybody thinks i'm wrong that adjusting the idle will mess up the TPS adjustment :flipoff: :2guns:) Also have they checked the ignition control module? Maybe something went nutty inside (small chance) but worth a look. Stalling on decel and a screwy idle screams ignition system not adjusted right. By the way I ran this by my teacher ( motorcycle rebuilder and racer) at school ( UTI ) and he agrees with me. To bad it's not an 07, lemon law baby. Good luck.
You did adjust the Idle Have them check the TPS adjustment , the TPS is not set at it's idle postion. That could be your problem.
AFTER all that agony and turmoil.....I have the bike back home safe and sound - and even better - running as good as new and not stalling EVER!!
American Suzuki sent a rep who recommended the shop check the valves. The shop reminded the Rep and I reminded them that the valves were done at shop #1. Now - shop #1 was completing it's 10K service and I mentioned the stalling issue. They worked on neither (basically just looked at the bike)> I took it back to them with the service manual's list of 10K activities and asked for the valves to be check to ensure they were in spec. What they told me (yes, on a cold bike) was that they needed a little adjusting and they were now fine and in spec.
WELL after sitting in numerous shops over almost 4 months - the last shop found the VALVES TO BE OUT OF SPEC - the first intake and last out put (???not sure if that means anything to any of you - but I want to be helpful to anyone who might experience this).
In the meanwhile I got motorcyclepsychosis and nearly lost it a number of times.
KUDOS to those of you who were telling me "valves, valves, valves" but we thought they were fixed. Hopefully no one will go thru this ordeal!
Thanks to all of you for your advice and help!
Three cheers for BSG returning to her thread and letting us hear the end of the story!
:cheers:
:cheers:
:cheers:
Now ride that thang and get over the "itis" of the chosis. :laugh:
Now ride that thang and get over the "itis" of the chosis. :laugh:
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Sorry it took me so long to get back and finish the book!! AND that bike rides GREAT now - took it to the mountains in N Ga, NCarolina last weekend and round our favorite roads here - it's running great now.....
and my mood is so much better!!! :laugh:
Yup,
I got another one over here its been doing the samething its been acting up for two months . checked everything i'll say it again "EVERYTHING" even paid the dealer to double check the valves got the standard "their in spec" answer which didnt sit right with me and after talking back and worth with kerry and blueskygal (which by the way you guys freakin rock) i chose to check them my self. Well well well guess what i found, both exhaust valves have .000 tol. and are so tight that the buckets wont even turn. Leads me to beleave the valves are not even closing, as well as i can see wear on my cam due to the fact its in constant contact with the shim. I called suzuki and got them up to speed as well as video documented it, because im going to take it back the dealer and make them double check there work. If they try to tell me "their in spec" and charge me/rip me off I will be persuing this legally as fraud, as well as recovering $$$ ive alredy paid to have this checked. :icon_mrgreen: The balls in their court now!! lol It's pretty sad when you have a 3yr service pack and cant trust the dealer with your machine. :mad:
I'll keep ya posted
David-
I wasnt able to get a trailer untill day before yesterday, I took it back to the dealer yesterday. Right off the bat i knew it was going to be interesting, The manager had told me on the phone that he would pull someone off another bike "as soon as i got there" and have them check mine out or he would do it him self right then. I also got him to agree (because i dont trust them)that i could watch the process to ensure there was no shim-switcha-roo to try to cover their mistake. i Didnt want them tofind it, fix it, tell me it was fine, and charge me AGAIN! So anyways I called first he said bring it in, when I got there of course they were "too busy" to pull someone off and what do you know all of a sudden he had a problem with me watching but i could wait if i wanted. So i did for about 2.5 hrs. before i had to leave to take my father to dialasis, as soon as i told him I'd be back someone rolled my bike to the back.(weird huh) He said he would give me a call i about an hour after he got the tank and valve cover off, I eventually got a call a little over three hours later. It was the manager he told me that he checked my valves personally and that everything was "In spec" :bs: and that he was able to slide a .05 feeler gauge freely between the exhaust cam and shim. Even though I couldnt get a .04 or a .03 (i barrowed) between them or turn the buckets, Yea Right!!! So i told him "dont even put it back together im gonna come a take a look for my self that dosnt make any sense" So this morning i went to the dealer with my feeler gauges and trustly camcorder ive been documenting with, and sure enough my bike MAGICALLY fixed itself I personally checked it and they are "in spec". the manager assured me that they didnt adjust them because they didnt need it because his tech "did it right the first time" but because ive had so many problems with them he's decided not to charge me for ANY of their time and labor. Funny huh? suddenly he's a nice guy who dosnt want to charge me, or is it the fact he dosnt want to tell me im right and dosnt want to let me leave with it documented that they screwed up and had to redo it.(since ive already called suzuki) Anyways I picking it up on sat should know then if its fixed.
David-
Hello,
It runs horrible now! I dont know what they did but it's BAD. It sounds like a "steam engine" when it idles i hear psss psss psss psss coming from somewhere around the carbs? sounds like pressure not vaccum? Also, when i hold it at about 2-3k rpm it coughs air and hiss's backwards through the carbs, it almost seems like pressure surges out the intake and litterly causes the carbs to jump backwards (1/4 inch maybe) .I think they messed with the idle screw aswell because it starts right up cold with no choke :dunno_white: (dosnt sound right!) The GM and Service manager tried to tell me thats how i brought it in :bs: !!They some how think its running "very lean" even though i havent changed anything. They suggested that I PAY to have the fuel mixture screw cover removed and adjusted.why? never had a problem before, does the mix change over time? Then they told me " we've decided that since we cant ever meet your exspectations you should take you bike somewhere else in the future" How about that! I spoke with a mechanic freind of mine he said it sounds like they either bent a valve (on purpose?to try to say the problem was something else) or they used the wrong shims when the adjusted it, either way it sounds like im starting over. Im really concerned about that cough and carb jump/hiss.
Any suggestions?????????
Im going to try to tear it down tomarrow but im working the checker 500 and probly wont have much time. think ill start around 3am.
What do you think it can be?
Sorry for the novel, just trying to be thoro
David
Hissing, popping, and farting sounds coming from the exhaust and carbs? That sounds like VERY tight valves to me.
DON"T FOOL WITH THE MIXTURE! Check the valves first to see if they're in spec, then go from there. I suggest you buy a service manual if you don't already have one and do the work yourself.
I'm sick of hearing stories like this. What the hell happened to customer service? I would never treat a customer with a problem like you and bluesky have been treated. It just isn't good for business!
One part sounds like its sucking air in the manifold boots - AKA vacuum leak.
The shims being tight - yes its worth checking. Most shops dont know that the buckets fill with oil when you pull the shim out, and the next shim reads tight - usually till you start it up. However ... they tend to measure it, and go back to thinner and thinner till the shim in there is a lot thinner than ideal. That will be noisy, but not create much other problem. You have too thick - sounds like they made some other mistake. If its thick by a very small amount - 1 size or lesser only, it will be great after it gets hot, but startup and warm ups will be absolute misery. Past that, no idea, never run it that way.
Cool.
Srinath.
Okay,
Im still scratching my head..... I pulled it apart again, checked the valve clearance and all are either .05 or .06 (in spec). I also did a compression test (finger over plug hole) and they both seem fine, lots of pressure. I also did the light test, passed with flying colors. I did notice that one plug had some carbon on it (looked normal) but the other one looked really clean, the white ceramic part looked spotless no carbon? They only have thirty miles on them but still, they dont look the same??? Kinda gave me the feeling that the clean one wasnt getting fuel. Any comment?The ones that just got replaced looked normal? With that said I have a question. On the back/top of my 06 gs500f petcock valve there is a vac line that goes about 10in to a tee, on the the opposite side of the tee there is another line , on the side nub there is NOTHING at all, no line, no cap, no breather, nada just a Naked open nub. Is this right? BEFORE YOU SAY IT Im going to order a manual next week (been down from stomach surgery). I dont remember ever seeing an open tee like that, Seems like there should be atleast somthing to keep the dust out. Sure would be nice if thats my Problem/vac leak easy fix too, but im still going recheck my carbs for clogs (even though i cleaned them just to be sure).
thanks for any help
David