Your chain loose? Here's a how-to on adjusting your chain ...
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dn_UhCtE0V0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dn_UhCtE0V0)
It's a GT250... Familiar enough to GS owners.
Cheers,
J
So, do we adjust it on its kickstand or centerstand?
Hi there,
You must measure the free play when the bike is on the side stand only.
The proper play is .8 to 1.2 inches up and down. You need to move the bike forward and backward to be sure you find the tightest spot in the chain and that's where you adjust the free play.
Good luck,
Todd
Put on center stand.
Find the tight spot.
Drop to side stand.
Adjust.
Side or center.....makes no difference in my view. I have owned bikes with sides and no centers, centers and no sides and have tensioned their chains with no issues. It doesnt matter what stand its on the adjusters will still move the wheel and with practice you learn to do it by feel and sight. As for a tight-spot, a chain in good order simply wont have one but one may develop one after a period of time in use.
Excellent.
I was curious. This video showed it done on the sidestand and others on the centerstand. Authors were saying different things with regard to the bike position.
If it's not a big deal side or center, that works for me. :thumb:
Well, you will get a different tension depending on whether you use the sidestand or centerstand, regardless of the opinions here.
Suzuki tells you to adjust the chain while the bike is on the sidestand.
In this way, the weight is on both wheels and the chain is extended because the swingarm is loaded under the weight of the bike.
If you adjust the chain on the centerstand, you will make it too tight once the weight is on both wheels. Try it and you'll see. It's simple geometry involing the andle of the swingarm, chain length, location of the swing arm pivot, etc.
I recommend you follow Suzuki's instructions and adjust the chain on the sidestand.
Not all bikes are like this, but this bike is like this.
My old Honda CB400F and other previous bikes were all adjusted on the centerstand, per the manufacturers.
Suzuki says to adjust the GS500 on the sidestand.
So listen to the maker or listen to some of the folks on this site who apparently know more than the factory on this matter.
It's up to you.
Yours,
Todd
Hm yes, I've read into that. I suppose as long as the chain has the correct tension, but I do plan to follow manufacturer instructions. Thanks for the inputs.
Here's how I did mine.
Put the bike on it's center stand.Turn the back wheel and push up every 5 links or so,until you find the tight spot.Loosen the axle.My bike was tracking streight,so I used a fine tip marker and made a line from the nut to the swing arm.Then I turned the adjuster nut a half turn and did the other side.I did this until I got the tension right.When you're finished the marker lines should be in the same place on both nuts.Took me 30 minutes to clean,adjust,and lubed my chain.Going by those marks on the swing arm will not always keep your rear tire lined up.Especially if the bike has been wrecked or dropped on something.To check alignment measure from the center of the swing arm axle to the wheel axle.This measurement should be very very close.
So what your saying is that if you adjust the chain on the centerstand the tension will be incorrect due to the fact there is no weight on the rear wheel?
Quote from: sledge on July 12, 2007, 10:44:41 PM
So what your saying is that if you adjust the chain on the centerstand the tension will be incorrect due to the fact there is no weight on the rear wheel?
With th factory shock maybe.But the way I do mine,with the wheel off the ground.I have no problems with it being to tight or slack,when I set it on the ground and check it.
Dont know if this makes a difference of not but what about those of us that has done the Kat wheel swap?
Diaz
O0
Chain tension is chain tension. There is no exact "right" setting, even Suzuki admits this in their spec'ed range of free-play.
As long as it's not loose enough to fall off, and not too tight to be stressing the chain when the suspension is compressed fully (bottomed out, if you will), you are fine.
Thanks for posting this, this is the reason why I enjoy checking this site to learn how it is done :thumb:
I concurr with Cali, chain tension is not an exact science, the figures quoted are guidelines and unless the chain is ridiculously slack or tight there are no benefits. Whatever way you choose to do it you will be in the ballpark. The tension varies in use dependent on the condition of the chain, the ongoing road conditions and the weight of the rider. Its different for everyone so why worry about 0.125"
A question for those who believe chains are manufactured with a tight spot.........ask yourself why?, what useful purpose does it serve?
.. is it just me of did he use a ton of spray ? It may just be me , as i'm a little more meticulous at hitting each o--ring with a quick burst of spray lube for every two sections :dunno_white: (done while kneeling behind the bike on the left side , so the spray is definately hitting both sections)
Tight spots develop with use of the chain, not something that *should* be there.
I've watched the last 2 chains I've put on the GS "grow" tight spots, shows up with use, but more importantly, with lack of lube and sitting out in the rain/salty air on the beach.
in that video he forgot to put it on the center stand, rev it to about 9.5-10K in first and slide a rag on the top of the chain. don't forgot to hold on tight and add pressure to the chain with ur fingers while doing it. :thumb: does a hell-of-a job if u ask me. :laugh:
Again.....I concur with Cali. New chains dont have tight spots, neither do chains that are well looked after. They develop in use due to the conditions they operate in and lack of maintenance, any chain that does have a noticable tight spot is nearing the end of its life.