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Main Area => General GS500 Discussion => Topic started by: Crucialval on July 12, 2007, 06:43:27 PM

Title: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Crucialval on July 12, 2007, 06:43:27 PM
First off the bike will lift the front tire up if you jerk on the throttle in 1st. on clutch needed :o

Under 3k it's a little less powerful then before. Does this sound rich or lean?

After 3K WOW it screams. Very loud on the intake side.

My biggest problem is that It seems to be very hot running. Lean or rich? or just normal becuase of the power increase.

Thanks
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: The Antibody on July 12, 2007, 08:45:41 PM
Excessive heat is a common side effect of a lean bike.

  -Anti  8)
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Chris24 on July 12, 2007, 08:50:47 PM
yes, i believe the following is correct, someone correct me and slap me if im wrong.

lean = hot.
rich = cool

too much much fuel (rich), puts so much fuel in the cylinder that it doesnt all burn. the excess unburnt fuel in liquid form cools cylinder. a lean bike will have sparkl plugs that look very white or gray. rich will be more brown. ideal is a very light brown, orange or tan. i.e. right in the middle.
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Crucialval on July 12, 2007, 09:06:47 PM
I think you guys are right on the lean suggestions, I run 140 mains and 40 pilots with a #4 washer should I try to adjust the air/fuel, add/remove washers, or get bigger main jets?

I guesss in an awnser to my own question I should prolly test in that order :dunno_white:

Any tips are welcome :thumb:
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Wrecent_Wryder on July 13, 2007, 04:34:07 AM
If re-jetted properly, it should be running cooler than stock, which is pretty lean.  There are usually other symptoms that are more immediately evident, though. The first symptom I get of a lean mixture is a "flat spot" in the aceleration, or "hunting" at 7-8k RPM. If I go leaner than that, multiple flat spots appear in the RPM range.

A lot of folks here don't spend much time below 3k RPM at all. The ignition advancer mod helps that range, and playing with the mixture screws, I'm finding, affects the whole range to some degree.
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: gs500f-gaz on July 13, 2007, 04:46:00 AM
if its rich the plugs will be wet and black. if its lean they will be whiteish colour. if mixture ok it will be a brown tan
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Crucialval on July 13, 2007, 05:57:12 AM
I think I'm going to play with the screws first to see what I can work out. I think it's fairly close becuase it runs so much better except in 3k and I do think it has a very quick flat spot in the 7-8K range. It revs hard slacks and then hard again. I'm guessing that is a flat spot. :dunno_white:
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Wrecent_Wryder on July 13, 2007, 06:05:46 AM
Sure sounds like.

You can try a half-turn out on the mix screws, it may well help, but keep an eye on your warmup, if it gets too rich at idle it will start behaving oddly with the choke in.

If that compromise doesn't work out... do you have shims on the needles yet? That's usually the next step.
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Crucialval on July 13, 2007, 06:10:37 AM
I do #4's but have extras. At this piont it starts and run fairly smooth with no choke.
Title: Re: how hot should the bike run after rejeting?
Post by: Wrecent_Wryder on July 13, 2007, 06:25:41 AM
I wouldn't hesitate to go with two washers. I might even try three- mine runs GREAT, solid, smooth acceleration, but I'm back to the warmup behaving a bit oddly, and when I lean out the mixture screws I start getting a hint of the 7-8k flat spot back again.

Srinath usually says to go up one size on the mains rather than three needle shims, but the larger mains didn't work nearly as well as it's doing now, and...  how many slots are there on the Euro-spec or DynoJet needles? Got to be at least five. Plus the space between the slots, which the washers don't have... I'm guessing 3 of the thin 3 mm washers I'm using might be about equivalent to two grooves on the multi-groove needles.  Anyway, I may give it a try.

The thing is, once you rejet, if you're even close, it's usually so much better than stock that it takes awhile to become sensitive to any little left-over nuances (sometime after you quit yelling "wheee!"), so it can be hard to tell if it's dead on, and then hard to guess which way to adjust.