Hey guys! I just picked up a '92 GS500E about 2 weeks ago for $1400 including jacket, helmet and boots. I saw the add in craigslist and bought it next day. Anyway the bike has almost 30,000 miles on it and I could use some help bringing it back to its glory days. I've taken it out locally, never anywhere too far trying to get my confidence up.
I took the MSF course back in October and that helped me so much in getting ready for my first bike. Anyway, the bike has been pretty good, no big concers other then I hate how I have to have the choke on for a while before the bike really warms up. The previous owner owned it for about 3,000 miles and only changed the spark plugs once. But the first owner did put the V&H exhaust on it which is a bit loud for me but I'll take it.
so questions
1. I'm assuming that since it's been about 2 years since an oil change that should be a priority?
2. I tried to change the air filter the other day (I have the service manual) but when removing the gas tank I couldn't pull the lines off of the petcock? (sorry, im a n00b) They were on there pretty tight and just wouldn't come off and I didn't want to rip one from pulling too hard. Any suggestions?
3. Doing the valves? Should I attempt this?
4. If I were to post pics later could someone tell me how my tread is looking? I can't really tell on these tires but I def don't want to be riding if the tires are bad.
5. I think the sprockets should be replaced? again I will post pics later. How hard is this?
6. Any other things I should look for or need to replace now?
7. I don't want to die because I overlooked anything.
I was thinking about taking it to the local suzuki place, powercycles of orlando, but don't want to get ripped off either.
PICS:
http://shutter7.com/coppermine/thumbnails-361.html (http://shutter7.com/coppermine/thumbnails-361.html)
1. yeah I would change the oil as soon as possible
2.they are probably pretty old, just go ahead and rip em off and buy some new line. I get line at a local shop for $.80ft
3.Ehhh, I wouldn't worry about valves just yet. Make re-jetting more of a priority. What type air filter is on there???
4. Sure get pics
5. sure go ahead
6.just address issues as they pop up
7. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Ohhhh and welcome, these people are little screwed up in the head, though. :laugh:
Hi Fox,
Congrats on the bike, but it's hard to know what it needs because you really didn't tell us much.
Did the previous owner(s) take care of it? Did it have regular maintenance?
Yes, you need to definitely change the oil and filter ASAP. I recommend stock OEM oil filters from Suzuki, and be sure to get a new o-ring and a new drain plug washer, too. I recommend Castrol 10W-40 oil -- good stuff.
About the sprockets -- why are you asking about whether they should be replaced? Because the bike has 30K? Has it ever had a new chain and sprockets replaced by a previous owner? And if you do decide to replace them, you should definitely replace the chain, too. There are good aftermarket chains and sprockets that you can buy for about $120 complete. Check my earlier post about a great deal I got with Parts411.com. Use the Search function on the site. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33434.0
Tires -- again, you haven't given us enough info to help you. When were they last replaced? What brand and model of tires are on the bike now? If you replace them, search the site for tire recommendations. I love my Michelin Macadam tires -- you can find details about them in a previous post -- http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=29932.0
And yes, since you don't know much about the maintenance of the bike, I'd recommend that you do a valve adjustment check, and check everything else from the tightness of bolts to chain adjustment, tire pressures, cable lubrication, etc.
Can you do these things yourself? I don't know. Can you? Are you good with tools? Are you patient and do you do good work? I'm glad to see you have a shop manual. It's good to have it to know what you are getting into as you go.
We'd love to see photos of the bike and get more info to try to help you.
There's lots of info to search here on the site so always look first to see if there is an answer to your questions.
Where do you live? Maybe someone lives near you and can help you.
Best wishes,
Trwhouse
Quote from: fox22182 on July 28, 2007, 08:15:38 AM
I was thinking about taking it to the local suzuki place, powercycles of orlando, but don't want to get ripped off either.
I would take it to the Suzuki place, and just have them do a pre-sale (post-sale in your case) inspection. The shop I just took my bike to did it for $50 CAN, and they checked everything except for compression test and gave me a full report of what work should be done. The list I got has an assessment of the condition of the:
tires, front/rear
brakes, front/rear pads & discs, fluid.
oil, fuel
engine idle and rev-up, transmission, clutch
drivetrain, chain, front/rear sprocket
forks/shocks, all bearings, tank, wheels, cables
charging system, battery
As well as some general comments on the condition or special things they noticed. I pretty much knew about most of what they told me just from owning the bike and searching this forum, but it's nice to get some professional confirmation, especially if you're not very experienced mechanically (like me).
Quote from: fox22182 on July 28, 2007, 08:15:38 AM
2. I tried to change the air filter the other day (I have the service manual) but when removing the gas tank I couldn't pull the lines off of the petcock? (sorry, im a n00b) They were on there pretty tight and just wouldn't come off and I didn't want to rip one from pulling too hard. Any suggestions?
When you're removing the tank, make sure to close the petcock attached to the tank. There's a screw facing inwards that you want to turn a quarter turn so the slot is horizontal.
Once you replace the lines, make them long enough so you can lift up the tank and easily close that screw.
-b.
Quote from: fox22182 on July 28, 2007, 08:15:38 AM
2. I tried to change the air filter the other day (I have the service manual) but when removing the gas tank I couldn't pull the lines off of the petcock? (sorry, im a n00b) They were on there pretty tight and just wouldn't come off and I didn't want to rip one from pulling too hard. Any suggestions?
Oh yeah, and watch this video. It's about adjusting valve clearance, but Kerry also shows you how to take those lines off the tank properly.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363&q=gs500+valve+video
That is an awesome video. I even learned a lot from it.
DLW
yeah I kind of made this post just as a prelim until I can go get more info about the bike. It also just started raining, but I shouldn't be surprised, Florida summer for ya.
Anyway, a couple of things.
I have no idea about the past maintenence of the bike, all the guy could tell me was that he replaced the spark plugs about a year ago. That's it. Other then that it's whatever the first owner did but he must have been known what he was doing since he put the aftermarket exhaust on there.
I probably will end up taking it to the suzuki place to have them do an inspection to see what I can do on my own Vs. what they can do. I just don't want to get in over my head and not have it drivable to take it to a professional.
This is my first bike so I'm a little nervous about messing with it. I'm somewhat experienced working on my car and ahve a decent amount of tools (ratchet set and such), but the biggest problem is that I live in an apartment complex so my working space is somewhat limited.
To answer someone's question, I did turn off the fuel on the petcock when I pulled the tank off. I just loosned the clamp with a pair of pliers and tried pulling the lines off, wasn't budging. Where do the fuel lines from the petcock attach to on the engine?
Quote from: fox22182 on July 28, 2007, 10:20:37 AM
To answer someone's question, I did turn off the fuel on the petcock when I pulled the tank off. I just loosned the clamp with a pair of pliers and tried pulling the lines off, wasn't budging. Where do the fuel lines from the petcock attach to on the engine?
Just slice the lines in half with a sharp knife. They're probably gummed onto the petcock nipples. They attach to the fuel valve on the other end, which is the little lever that switches between reserve, on, and prime. Also replace the fuel line between the fuel valve and the carbs themselves.
-b.
Pics updated at the top. Thanks!
You see in the pics how the tires have Squared off? done alot of straight miles ., and the outsides look really good ,so maybe he didnt get right to the edge of the tire ,which might suggest it hasnt been abused *not round twistys anyways , but the centre is flat as you like , id replace the rusty chain to ,
Otherwise looks clean and tidy
Love the colour , im sure Scottpa will 2 :thumb:
Oil yes.just don't over tighten the oil filter cover bolts.They break easily.
The tires I would replace.They are Kenda 671 cruziers.I loved them until I had the front cup real bad and made for some scary riding.
The fuel lines ,replace them with thin wall 5/16 lawn mower or motorcycle fuel lines.
Sprockets I'm not sure with out seeing in person.The tips should be flat and not sharp.
Chain,if there's any doubt replace it.If it brakes it could lock up the rear wheel.It's a 520 O-ring chain with 112 links.
There's is a great debate about using snap type master links.For commuting and touring,I say they're fine.
For flogging the wee out of it in the curves,I say a press type master link.
Hope this helps and congrats on the new ride. :thumb:
Doing your own maintenance is a great way to get aquainted with your new bike, and definitely worth your time. I'd recommend flushing all the fluids, ie: doing a complete oil change (and then possibly another, to further reduce sludge, after another 100-500 miles), both brake systems, lubing all the cables and burning off all the potentially old (stale) gas, and new fork oil in the forks. Last one is not necessary, just will feel better and have a base-line for future maintenance records.
Get in line for the valve checking kit and you'll have all the tools you'll need to check the valves. Kerry has a very good video explaining in detail the step-by-step how-to for this procedure and it's quite simple once you are in there.
Make sure your axle bolts are tightened correctly, your tires are in good shape (new ones are good idea), and you've got plenty of pad left, and you won't die (at least from the bike failing). Spend your time on surface streets until you get truly comfortable with the operation and feeling of the machine.
Chain/sprocket set isn't hard if you have the chain breaking tool and are comfortable running a master link (rather than an end-less, or riveted) style chain. I don't run a master link on anything bigger/faster than a 500cc street bike, as I think the stresses are just too much with anything faster/heavier, but have run a master link ever since stock chain wore out on the GS with no issues.
haha thanks guys. Yeah, the chain and fluids were going to be a top priority for me. So tired look okay to everyone? I was probably going to upgrade the sprockets while I had the bike open to do the chain.
how do i burn off the excess gas? just run it until its empty?
Also the brakes seem to squeal in the front until they are warm and even then sometimes when applying they squeal like a pig. that my sign to replace?
Also I feel retarded but when trying to put the bike on its center stand, I just can't do it. It just scrapes along the bottome but won't go up. I almost broke my leg trying to get it up there putting all my weight into it.
I swear riding this bike won't kill me but doing maintenence on it probably will.
Man I wish my '92 was that clean...LOL
I had a hard time putting mine on the center stand too. I found that stepping on it and pulling both grips towards the back of the bike helped. I have to sorta "rock" the bike to get it up there.
DLW
Quote from: fox22182 on July 31, 2007, 06:52:41 AM
Also I feel retarded but when trying to put the bike on its center stand, I just can't do it. It just scrapes along the bottome but won't go up. I almost broke my leg trying to get it up there putting all my weight into it.
What's your weight?
I'm 181 cms = 5'11.3'' x 73 kgs = 158.73 lbs; personally I haven't met many difficulties when putting my GS 500 on its centerstand.
Anyway:
you should find two rails (one per side) under the tail panels (roughly under the two "GS 500 E" monikers), near the side reflectors. (For identification purposes, these two rails are provided with small pegs that you can use to attach a bungee net there.).
Well, you can use these rails, namely the one on the left, to put your bike on the centerstand:
step on the centerstand as usual with your foot,
your left hand on the left grip,
grab said left rail with your right hand, pulling up and towards the rear of the bike, while contemporarily pressing on centerstand with your foot.
I find it easier to put my bike up there using this method, instead than pulling the handle behind the seat. :thumb:
Hope this helps
and I hope I decently explained myself (sorry, English not my native language :icon_mrgreen:)
The rear brake design is the cause of the squealing, not a sign of pads needing replacement. There is a small plastic cover that clips onto the brake caliper and hides the pads/retaining pins/springs from view, if you pop that cover off, you can check the condition of your pads and see how much life you have left.
New pads wouldn't be a bad idea, but unless you are seriously down on braking power from where you think you should be (You should be able to lock the rear tire at basically any speed, stomping on it hard enough), I wouldn't worry about replacing them until you wear them out (but before you start using the backing plate as stopping material on the rotors, that is hard on these bikes!!)
As for burning off the gas, you could drain the tank into your car and refill the bike with fresh stuff, or just go for a ride over 100 miles round trip, which will burn it all off. Some fuel system cleaner (I like Chevron's Techron) would again help establish a base-line.
These bikes are great for teaching non-mechanically-minded (or experienced) folks how to do their own wrenching as it's all pretty simple, all very accessible, and quite easy to get the stuff right. Enjoy, and don't be afraid to ask questions here, we're here to help!
thanks guys this place is awesome.
Welcome!
1. Yes
2. Use a screwdriver to leverage them off (but it would be wise to have a replacement hose nearby)
3. Depends on how comfortable you are with doing so. Review Kerry's valve adjustment video. Otherwise, I'd suggest having them checked at a shop at your next 4000 mile interval (example: if you're at 11,000 miles wait til you're at 12,000 miles, or 16,000, 20k, and so on)
4. The front tire looks fine. The rear can be replaced soon. Check pressures at 33psi on the front and 36 on the rear; adjust from there to what feels comfortable (maybe you like 32 in the front and 37 in the rear).
5. At least replace the chain. Inspect the front sprocket first though.
6. Change the fork oil (it should be changed every other year)
7. Brake fluid. The brake fluid should be changed every other year as well. Look to see if it is a nice clear or clear yellow; if it's cloudy or dark, change it. Front and rear.
Hope this helps.
I actually found out today that my bike is actually a '95. The guy who sold it to me kept saying '92 and the listing on craigslist said '92. Well the title when I went to go to the DMV today says '95. LOL. Who doesn't know the correct year of there bike? come on now.
I guess that came out in my favor then!
welcome Fox!! It looks like you're in good hands. So I'll just say we're glad to have you here. Nice bike!
Quote from: Mk1inCali on July 31, 2007, 09:01:21 AM
These bikes are great for teaching non-mechanically-minded (or experienced) folks how to do their own wrenching as it's all pretty simple, all very accessible, and quite easy to get the stuff right.
Nah, they're just GENERALLY great. Skinned knuckles and odd bodily contortions aren't fun, no matter HOW much experience you've got.
-b.