Hey guys,
I recently did an oil change and thought I'd try using a heavier oil, seeing as how it's summer and all.
However, I'm noticing that it takes a bit longer to start up cold, it idles at a lower rev, and when I blip the throttle, the engine sometimes (rarely) makes this loud popping noise. I'm guessing that it's normal for the bike to take longer to start up, and I've adjusted the idle back to around 1.2k. However, it's the last thing that I'm kinda worried about.
Just checking to make sure that it won't cause any issues down the road.
Thanks!
I've used 10W-60 oil in my bike for over a year now and it loves it especially in summer.
In winter, yes the bike does take longer to warm up than when I used 10W-40
Your engine is working harder to move around all that heavy oil. That drags down the idle, and makes it harder to spin up when you hit the throttle.
The only time I use 50W is when my engine leaks. The oil has a harder time squeezing through whatever it's leaking out of. And then I feel guilty, because if it slows down the leaks, it probably also has a harder time pumping and getting into the bearing surfaces and things it's supposed to lubricate.
So, based on that "logic" I would only use oil that heavy if I have a super compelling reason.
I run 10W30 for 12 months, and never had a problem.
depends where you live I guess, cause in texas, I have 10w40 in mine and it whinnnnnnnesss at 8K rpm.
I am goin to try out the 20w50 someone suggested.... see what it does.
PS: nothing like 100+ F days and 2 hrs commute on highways to make you tired of listening to the GS running.
I'll buy that. Doesn't get much past 95 around here.
I use 50w full syn in the summer because i noticed im burning a lot more oil since i switch to syn and summer combined. I have burned a LOT less oil switching and my bike runs the same it seems
Chuck that's why I use a 10W-60 oil.
Thinner than a straight 50W oil when col but doesn't thin down as much when it heats up.
Quote from: yupoo on August 09, 2007, 07:11:29 PM
I use 50w full syn in the summer because i noticed im burning a lot more oil since i switch to syn and summer combined. I have burned a LOT less oil switching and my bike runs the same it seems
You do know that you can't go back to regular,right? :icon_confused:
Quote from: average on August 10, 2007, 12:46:00 AM
You do know that you can't go back to regular,right? :icon_confused:
This was true of early synthetics, because of the high level of ester screwing with the seals.
Modern synthetics are all compatible. You can mix them, and mix with conventional oil all you want.
Quote from: average on August 10, 2007, 12:46:00 AM
You do know that you can't go back to regular,right? :icon_confused:
I mean im switching back to 10w-40 or maybe 30 when winter rolls along. I really noticed i burned a lot more oil at 10-40w full syn from 10-40w conventional but its summer to so ill just have to test it to see
i also have noticed slower idle, etc after trying Kendall 50w at the advice of the local shop. I am considering going back to 10-40; can i jiust drain my oil and refill it with the 40w, or do I need to replace my filter at the same time? I've heard in the past that you couldn't mix brands/weights; not sure if this was an old wives tale, just never tested it, and also not sure how much oil is held in the filter.
Most oils these days are compatible and can be mixed.
As kind of a follow up about a month and a half later, (I'm not sure if this has to do with oil weight)
The bike wouldn't start this morning!
I started it, and the engine would turn, but after I let go of the starter it would just die. It would fire a few times, kinda sporadically, during the start.
So, I just let it sit for about an hour or so while the temps outside got from about 45 to 60. It started without a hitch after that.
Does anyone think that 20w-50 oil was the culprit here?
Possibly. :dunno_white:
When its really cold, the combination of thicker oil and a cold battery could mean the starter motor isn't getting enough current to turn the thicker oil.
Did you use full choke?
Yeah, full choke, and when that didn't work, full throttle. Still didn't start :dunno_white:
It did that "not want to start" thing again when I was about to leave from work. Eventually did, and after it warmed up, it ran without a hitch.
Any ideas what could be the issue?
How cold is it atm?
How are your plugs?
hmm. guess the dipstick is wrong again. i should be running _anything_ but 10w40, right ?
Lets refer to the owners manual.
ENGINE OIL
Use a premium quality 4-stroke motor oil to ensure longer service life of your motorcycle. Use only oils which are rated SF or SG under the API service application. The recommended viscosity is SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 motor oil is not available, select an alternative according to the following chart.
Oil is suitable if operated within ambient (outside atmosphere) temperature ranges of:
20W-50 -10 degrees celcius or more (14 degrees Fahrenheit or more )
15W-40 -15 degrees celcius or more (5 degrees Fahrenheit or more )
15W-50 -15 degrees celcius or more (5 degrees Fahrenheit or more )
10W-40 -20 degrees celcius or more (-4 degrees Fahrenheit or more )
10W-50 -20 degrees celcius or more (-4 degrees Fahrenheit or more )
10W-30 -20 degrees celcius to 30 degrees celcius (-4 degrees Fahrenheit to 86 degrees Fahrenheit )
So other oils are suitable IF used in the correct operating temperatures.
I personally use a 10W-60 full synthetic oil in the belief if will protect the engine better in Australia's hotter climate. So far so good. Our oil in our GS's gets treated pretty rough as its viscosity gets broken down as it gets churned and cut up in the gear box. I have not had the bike burn any oil at all after 12,000km's so fingers crossed :thumb:
Only downside I have had using a thicker oil is a slightly longer warm up in winter.
since suzuki dropped the price of its synth oil i have been using it and have really noticed a nice difference. in general it is just smoother in general
It's about 50 degrees in the morning right now. Bike started up this morning without much problem, but this with holding down the ignition button for about 5 seconds,
twisting the throttle all the way, and full choke.
I'm just wondering why it's having such a hard time starting up cold... According to the part that galahs posted, 50 weight should be fine for where I live. It just about never goes below freezing here.
I'll pull the plugs and take a look later today.
Thanks!