http://www.leescycle.com/theShop/pricing/main.htm
For all the stuff included, it appears to be a good deal. Since I need an oil change, and I'd like to have the valves adjusted, camchain checked, etc. this seems like a decent price. What do y'all think?
Seems very high.
OK here is the break down....
The GS has valves but they need adjusting one in 5 times. If you check at 3500.
Adjust fuel screws...what screws...I have never had to adjust it once its jetted and even so its a 2 second deal.
Synch carbs...does it need it??? Not unless you screwed with that.
Cam chain cant be adjusted. You inspect it but that is done when you do valves and are turning the motor between valves.
Oil an filter - Yes needs to be done.
Chain...You do that every 3-500 miles...so you are doing it your self 9 times out of 10...so what's the diff.
Spark plugs...well I have never used up a set of plugs, the bikes I have bought that supposedly were professionally maintained always have had plugs that has the top threads bent. Then I found out that if the wrenches dont have the rubber grommets inside that tends to happen. So I do my plugs and I clean them and replace them much less often than 3500 miles.
Air filter - Fine but its easy and you should be checking and cleaning it with compressed air especially the paper one. BTW I'd like the old one if you are changing it. Paper filters only.
Adjust clutch....how do they know where you like it to engage and how much play you like in it.
Check brakes...You supposed to do it pretty often and its quite easy.
Fluid to battery....again more often than 3500 but I have a sealed one now so I never do it.
Coolant...well GS has none.
Adjust steering head...Well its easy too but yous should be fine if you can ride it and not feel shake or tightness. I'd check it and if the thing tests out fine I'd not adjust it....cos that could hurt it once you know its right.
Cool.
Srinath.
I'm with Srinath on this one.
If you haven't done much "wrenching" in the past, the $250 would look pretty tempting, especially given the time it would take you to learn how to do all of these tasks the first time.
But you know what? After you've spent the $250, you're no closer to knowing how to do these tasks yourself, and you're looking at another $250 charge within a matter of months (assuming you put a good number of miles on). Not only that, but you run the risk of having to go back and forth with the shop to get things re-fixed every time they touch the bike.
On the other hand, if you learn how to do each task as needed, your biggest expense will be time. But your payback will be HUGE. I knew NOTHING about working on motorcycles when I got my GS in the spring of 2000, and now I'm very comfortable with all of the regular maintenance items and a few of the not-so-regular ones.
If you needed to service a Honda GoldWing or something, I'd say this would be pretty good deal. (Not that I know anything about GoldWings....) But for the GS500, it's overkill. The bike is just TOO easy to work on to justify that kind of expense.
With a Haynes and/or Clymer manual in hand, and GStwin.com just a mouse click away, there's no reason NOT to "Do It Yourself".
i believe pablo had half that done for about 140 or so.. marina suzuki, ca
I had all that done at dealer and it cost me $140+ parts (oil and stuff). Came to $180 or so. I don't have time to wrench so its worth it. For what its worth I also checked a local indy motomech and they wanted $260 for same work, basically the 4K service.
If you need an oil change do that yourself. The rest I leave to the wrenches. check prices at your local suzuki dealer. Also, I have heard good things about Lee's Cycle.
In my opinion that is a rip off. Granted that is my opinion. Half of what is listed you can do yourself. The other quarter probably doesn't need to be done, and if it does won't be hard for you to do. Invest in a tech manual and buy the tools. The engine tune is the hardest part as I learned recently. If you get the right tools and the shims, it isn't so bad though. My two cents. :thumb:
Quote from: pantabloCame to $180 or so. I don't have time to wrench so its worth it.
A very valid point. Sometimes it's hard to remember that there are all kinds of people in this world, in all kinds of situations!
Well rprata, I hope we've supplied enough info so you can make your decision ... based on YOUR situation.
Good luck!
Dude,
If you're thinking about doing it yourself, the following is comforting:
" . . . there's a school of mechanical thought which says I shouldn't be getting into a complex assembly I don't know anything about. I should have training or leave the job to a specialist. That's a self-serving school of mechanical eliteness I'd like to see wiped out .
" . . . You're at a disadvantage the first time around and it may cost you a little more because of parts you accidentally damage, and it will almost undoubtedly take a lot more time, but the next time around you're way ahead of the specialist. You, with gumption, have learned the assembly the hard way and you've a whole set of good feelings about it that the specialist is unlikely to have." from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
It is a Rip Off. Read the small letters. PART NOT INCLUDED. You will have to pay for oil, filter, sparks plugs, etc. It will come to more. Learn how to do it and do it yourself.
Ok, I see everyone's point. I partly agree with Kerry in that if I never do the work, I'll never learn.
here's the problem.
It seems like every time I try to work on my bike, I cause more damage than I fix. Examples:
When I first got the bike, the choke cable was broken. I have a Haynes manual that came with the bike (unfortunately the manual is now in storage in RI). So I followed the instructions in the Haynes manual to replace the choke cable, and it went OK. But, after the cable got replaced, the bike ran like crap, wouldn't stay running, etc. I had the shop look at it, and they said the carbs were full of dirt and water ?!? and it cost me 200.00 to get it fixed. All because of a 15.00 cable.
Then, I tried to replace the rear brake pads, and the caliper was siezed, so I had to again bring the bike to the shop, and have the caliper rebuilt. Another 150.00 labor.
Now, I try to change the damned oil, and I break a damned bolt, and it's going to cost 75.00+ to get it fixed, plus the cost of a tow, and I'm without a vehicle for around 3-5 days while the shop gets the necessary part(s) (bolt or whatever) and fixes it for me.
That's why I'm scared to do anything to my bike that involves the motor or carbs. I'm not very mechanical, I really wish I were. Especially with the GS, because it's supposed to be so damned easy to work on. And I really want to learn to do these things myself, but it seems like every time I decide to do a repair/maintenance myself, I end up costing myself a LOT of money in repairs.
My father is an ASE certified master mechanic, and could dis-assemble a car and re-assemble it no problem. I can't change the oil on my damned bike. Go figure. :x
Wow - sorry to hear about your bad luck so far. :cry:
About the oil filter bolt - did you break the bolt, or strip the threads on it, or strip the threads on the dome nut?
Take a look at this BikeBandit image of the oil filter and surrounding parts (http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic.asp?dept_id=137622). Part #12 is the "stud bolt" that you must be talking about. Looks like the OEM part number is 01421-06208 and the BikeBandit price is $1.06.
Here are your options as I see them:
1) No matter what, I would drain the oil into a clean container and pop the oil filter off.
2) If there is any portion of the "stud bolt" protruding from the engine case, there is a hope of spinning it out (carefully!) with a standard tool like Vise-Grips or something. If the bolt is broken off below the surface, the job is significantly harder; now we're talking about using a drill and an EZ-Out in an aluminum block. You might want to get help if this is the case.
3) If you CAN get the bolt out and you get another one, spin the new one in with your fingers as far as possible, then grip the bolt with pliers of some kind - WITH SOMETHING SEMI-SOFT (rubber from an inner tube, etc.) BETWEEN THE JAWS OF THE PLIERS AND THE BOLT - and tighten it up. Then just take it easy when you put the nut back on.
4) If it's the nut that's stripped, get a new one and go easy when you put it on.
5) If BOTH items are stripped, you'll have to get both parts of course.
Have you ever hooked up with cgreenland (http://www.gstwins.com/forum/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=90)? According to his profile, he's from San Diego. And from the sound of his posts he's had at least some hands-on experience. (I realize that San Diego is a BIG place, but he MIGHT live fairly close by....) Worth a shot, just to have someone local to bounce ideas off of.
Hang in there, bud!
I agree the work doesn't sound that bad, and if I had a little patience I would probably attempt it. The bolt just snapped. It's not stripped. I can probably get to it with vice-grips or whatever. I called a few shops, and nobody has the 'stud bolt' so it would need to be ordered.
I'm just in a position where I don't have a lot of tools available, so it's hard to do this kind of work right now.
However the support on this site is second-to-none, and I appeciate people like Srinath and Kerry, Manjul and everyone else I may have not mentioned. You are all great folks, and I appreciate the time everyone takes to reply to my threads. Thanks a bunch. :thumb: :cheers:
Quote from: rprataI called a few shops, and nobody has the 'stud bolt' so it would need to be ordered.
Check with a local mom and pop hardware store. The one local to me always have those kind of bolts/studs handy and since its mom and pop they'll find it for you. Just bring in the nut and they'll match it. That's what I always do.
Also, when you (if you) install the stud loctite it in so it wont unscrew when removing the nuts in the future.
I've had the same experience as you mechanically. I used to be great with cars having restored a couple in the past but these days unless I tend to do more harm than good. Rejet my carbs? You've got to be kidding...
I'm going to try to source the 'stud bolt' locally, or I'll order it. I have the nut. 'till tomorrow...