Just picked up a '96 GS500 this past week, and am planning on doing some basic maintenance in the next few days. I took a look at the oil change post on the how-to page, and I noticed it was recommended that the filter o ring, filler cap o ring, and the drain plug washer all be replaced. Is there any way I can figure out what size o rings/ washer this needs to be prior to starting?
Thanks in advance.
Quinnsi
I still have the same washer after 26,000 + miles.
It's a crush washer so get one from the dealer if you want to change it.
I never changed the filler cap o ring.
Can't see a reason for this one.
I change the oil filter o ring every second or third oil change.
You can change this every time.
I've never changed a filler cap o-ring or a drain plug washer in 360,000 miles of oil changes. The oil filter o-ring comes with the filter with most aftermarket filters, if you buy a Suzuki filter which comes w/o the o-ring you can get one when you buy the filter.
Thanks guys
On the other side of the equation, spending a dollar on the crush washer (which you can exchange for a copper 14mm washer that will be WAY easier to get off the plug) is good piece of mind for leakage.
I swapped out my drain plug for a plug with a larger head (But same thread pitch/thread count) to prevent rounding of the bolt too.
Again, piece of mind.
Be careful on the filter cover studs! I knew you weren't supposed to over tighten them, but I snapped one anyways haha. I replaced them both with regular hex bolts and have had no problems.
I just changed my oil filter using the Fram CH6000 it came with an o ring I put alittle white lithium grease from Napa autoparts in the O ring groove to make sure it didnt move or get pinched, I have a '02 that uses a 17 mm drain plug, I had to get the crush washer at the dealer it was about a buck, as for the filler cap O ring that sucker is on there til it falls off because it is a bear to get off and back on. So, if you dont have to you dont need to replace that little o ring. If you can get a hold of a torque wrench then torque those little bolts heads to 5 to 8 ft lbs and your drain bolt to 18 ft lbs. use alittle copper anti seize also from Napa and that is it take your time and do it by the number just like build a model airplane and it is so easy. I usually have two of everything just in case I blow something, so get a couple of those crush washer that way you wont have to go back to the dealer next time. Have fun and go slow. :thumb:
I used the Fram a few times and found the rings to be on the thin side.
The Suzuki I found to be reusable and the Fram barely usable.
Really mp, I didnt notice much of a difference, I have about 70 miles and no leaks. Anyone else have any problems with Frams O ring, should quinnessi just P/U an oem O ring at the dealer???
Don't even get me started with the Fram/Autozone filters...booo....do a search of "oil filter" and coll0412 as the author.
What do you recommend Coll? Purolator? :dunno_white:
washer? what washer? :o
ohhh and errm unless youre good at not dripping oil when you change it, REMOVE or MOVE the headers away from teh oil filter area ( prevents drippage onto the headers) also prevents it stinking to all hell when it burns off :thumb:
Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on September 13, 2007, 12:49:27 AM
ohhh and errm unless youre good at not dripping oil when you change it, REMOVE or MOVE the headers away from teh oil filter area ( prevents drippage onto the headers) also prevents it stinking to all hell when it burns off :thumb:
that seems like so much trouble compared to letting some oil drain out the plug first. never had much trouble with the oil filter cover. so what if some oil spills on it... its so filthy anyway :cheers:
Better idea yet:
Cover your headers with aluminum foil before you drop the filter.