Any way to repair this without bending over at the shop? They say around 75.00 which isn't that bad, but I have to have it towed in.
There are 3 bolts that the cover fit over, and nuts fit over those bolts... well as i was putting the cover back on for the 2nd time ( had to re-seat the gasket) the bolt in the upper-right broke right off, and oil is spewing thru the hole.
JB Weld? but I want to be able to change the oil in the future...
you can drill it out and possibly use easy out on it and take out the bolt and replace it..
i believe teh bolts are replaceable (like the nuts).
That's what the shop I called said.. they mentioned easy out, and drilling.. I just didn't know how hard it would be to put another bolt in the engine casing. I'm still going to have to have the shop do it, as I only have very minimal tools here, and don't want to buy any un-necessary tools ( I have a bunch in storage in RI already).
Thanks for the info... hopefully the shop can do this fairly quickly.
its very easy, Just try yourself if you have a power drill, and tap.
First step is to tap the center of the broken bolt (so the drill doesnt wobble all over the place) then drill out the center of the bolt maybe halfway down. Next get an easy out or a big(just a little bigger than the one you used to drill it out) left handed drill bit (maybe $10 at the store) then slowly drill into the drilled out bolt (now this should be going counter clockwise) and it should catch the bolt and then slowly work it out. then just get a bolt that is the correct size and change it. :thumb:
Do a search on "oil cover torque" (match all) and you'll find a bunch a stuff.
If you've got enough bolt sticking-out, sand-down the threads at the very end, then thread on two nuts. Turn them against each other using two wrenches. Then use the inner nut to turn-out the bolt.
If not that much bolt, try putting a locking pliers on it (*tight*) and turn the bolt counter-clockwise to get it out. Replacement is (I think) a standard 6mm bolt (not sure of length).
If not enough bolt to even get the locking-pliers on, then put a dent in the middle of the bolt with a sharp drift punch, take a tiny drill bit and drill a small hole *straight* into the broken bolt; go to your nearest hardware and get an "easy-out" (smaller than 6mm bolt!), come back, put it into your drill (tight chuck), and put the drill on backwards (counter clockwise) and drill into the bolt with the easy-out.
I'm just regurgitating the previous postings. But I've done this kind of thing on car engines.
Ok... well, it doesn't seem that bad. I will attempt to do this myself before I have the tow person come and take it to the shop.
Thanks for all the hints and encouragement... it looks like I may be able to handle this one after all.
I wouldn't JB Weld that either. It's a funny spot to join and if the joint breaks while the bike is running you'll have bigger problems than a broken stud!
Quote from: Rema1000Replacement is (I think) a standard 6mm bolt (not sure of length).
The description of the part on
http://www.bikebandit.com is
6 X 20 STUD BOL
so it sounds like its 20mm long.
Speaking of which, you could get a 6x20 metric bolt (with regular hex head) at a hardware store and use it to get up and running. By the time you need to change your oil again the "real" stud bolt will have arrived, and you can install it with the original nut.
Whichever way you go, just make sure you don't torque it down too much!
I went the bolt route and used a metric 6 bolt that was 20mm long and a lock washer instead of messing with the snapping studs.