Hello Everyone,
Before I joined this forum, I spent a few hours reading up on different discussions that caught my interest. I do have a few questions to ask though and if they are noob questions if you can please forward me to the right thread or just answer them again it would be appreciated.
So I bought a 2000 GS500E from someone who wanted to get rid of it. I think I am sitting around 7k or 8k miles and I was wondering what should I check out for maintenance? I will post up the site I have bookmarked when I get home.
Well the problem I have been having is that after I warm up the bike, it cant idle. The first 3 times I rode it, it drove fine. but now it keeps dying. I have read and read about cleaning the Carbs and rejetting many times, so I guess my questions are how much would each cost? ( I am in no need of doing it myself right now, I am pretty busy with school and other projects), and what should I be looking for in terms of cost of an oil change? I think ill be able to do the oil change after reading a few tutorials posted online, but I dont feel comfortable taking apart the car for cleaning the carbs. Also, where do I adjust the bike for the idling RPM? I have just been using the choke before, but now that seems to either keep raising the RPM, or its set too low and the bike dies anyway.
If someone could answer my questions I would greatly appreciate it. I really like this bike and dont want to get rid of it becuase of the maintenance I have to do on it. I can also upload pictures if anyone is interested.
Last question of the day, how much would you spend on a bike like this?
Quote from: shuluke on October 23, 2007, 03:37:29 PM
So I bought a 2000 GS500E from someone who wanted to get rid of it. I think I am sitting around 7k or 8k miles and I was wondering what should I check out for maintenance?
If you don't have a service/repair manual yet, check out the Maintenance Schedule (http://www.gstwin.com/maintenance_info.htm) available from the main GStwin (http://www.gstwin.com) page. Good stuff!
Quote from: shuluke on October 23, 2007, 03:37:29 PM
Well the problem I have been having is that after I warm up the bike, it cant idle. The first 3 times I rode it, it drove fine. but now it keeps dying. [...] Also, where do I adjust the bike for the idling RPM? I have just been using the choke before, but now that seems to either keep raising the RPM, or its set too low and the bike dies anyway.
Yeah, the choke will only help until the engine is up to temperature. Once it's hot, having the choke tends to kill it.
The following picture is taken from the left side of the bike. It shows where the Idle Adjustment Screw is situated ... between the carburetors:
(http://bbburma.net/MiscFotos/DSCF2431_Idle_Drain_Mixture_Screws.jpg)
This next picture (ignore the text for now) gives you more of a walk-up view of the idle adjustment screw from the right side of the bike - the side you're more likely to adjust it from:
(http://bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_0797_Carb_Engine_Boots.jpg)
I tend to adjust the idle while sitting on the bike, with the engine running. For that matter, I usually adjust it while rolling down the road with the clutch pulled in ... so I can see what RPMs the engine is idling at without stopping. (Only on a deserted stretch of road, though ... and only after so much practice that my hand can now find the screw automatically, without any fumbling.) At idle, the RPMs should be between 1200 and 1300.
Good luck!
Definitely change the oil yourself - it's a piece of cake even for people that don't have any experience working on cars or bikes. It would take $10 to buy the materials (oil pan, filter and oil) and you'll learn something about your bike Be sure that you don't break off one of the oil filter cover bolts though or it could get a lot more expensive. Like Kerry said though, you should buy a manual - it will save you a lot of money. Welcome to the board.
Kerry, it's really good to have your photo posts back. :thumb:
Welcome!
Changing the oil in the GS is simple, if you have the time. After the first time you can do it in about 10 minutes including the beer break. As Kerry has suggested, pick up a Clymer's shop manual. The manual will guide you step-by-step though changing the oil as well as many other things.
Be careful tightening the oil filter cover nuts, as it is easy to snap off the stud. By using a 1/4 inch ratchet held between your thumb, index, and middle finger you can feel the gasket compress as the nut turns. All of a sudden, the torque will begin to rise rapidly, which signifies that the oil fiter cover has bottomed on the engine case. Turn the nut a little more and you'll be set.
I'm not sure how much an oil change costs, as it depends greatly on the dealer. I would guess around $40 - $50. For a more specific answer call the dealer you intend to take it to.
If I liked the GS, which I do, I would spend whatever it took to maintain it. I paid $750 for my GS. So far I would estimate I've spent at least a thousand on repair and maintenance. Better the machine you know than the shiny waxed lemon you don't. ;)
If you learn to work on the bike yourself you will save at least $75 for every hour it isn't in the shop. It is worth buying a good set of tools just to work on your bike.
Thank you guys for the replies. I will have to check out the idle adjustment screw this weekend.. :( I was going to call around to see what the price is for a Carb cleaning and a rejet. My question is what should I be looking at? I am a college student and would like to find a price that is reasonable.
Any idea on costs of a carb cleaning and rejet? I am not sure what a rejet actually is but I will look that up tonight. Thanks.
Hey hey!
First of all I had some question that u got yourself now to. Like the guys told ya, get a manual. I've the Haynes one and its really fantastic. Change the oil yourself. Dont rely on someone else to do it if u love ur bike.. Its good time spend and at the end you will be happy for a job welldone and knowing that ur bike got new blood!
Carb cleaning plus rejet was for me 30€.. thats more or less 20$/25$. BUT thats a price in Portugal! Dont imagine doing it that yourself for now. Removing carbs is easy but cleaning and rejet isnt for anyone. Give a call to a dealer. :icon_razz:
Cya soon!
If the bike was running when you bought it, don't bother with a rejet (or even cleaning the carbs -- it's a 2005 bike!).
Learn to adjust the idle speed screw -- it will take you one minute and it will probably solve your problem.
The bike is actually a 2000. It was barely used. only has 7000 miles on it. I replaced the spark plugs because they were really dirty. I am thinking maybe it has not been taken care of?
Thanks for answering my questions pretty fast. I think this is my new favorite forum!
Quote from: shuluke on October 23, 2007, 09:46:30 PMI replaced the spark plugs because they were really dirty. I
am thinking maybe it has not been taken care of?
When you say "dirty" ... do you mean like this?
(http://bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_100_1301_SparkPlugs_CarbonFouling.jpg)
Or more like one of [these other photos? (http://bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_SparkPlugChart.jpg)]
If the plugs looked more like the first photo, you may find the same thing on your new plugs too. The sooty appearance indicates a "rich" condition - too much fuel in the fuel/air mixture being sent from the carburetors to the cylinders. If BOTH plugs looked like that, the problem was not specific to either carburetor, which leads me to suspect either a dirty air filter (too little air in the mix) or "too much choke" (too much fuel in the mix). Once you get the idle set so the bike won't die, ride with no choke for a mile or two. Then check the plugs again. If they're still sooty, pull the air filter out and repeat the ride, and then check again. If the soot is gone, you need a new (or at least a
cleaner) air filter.
Quote from: shuluke on October 23, 2007, 09:46:30 PMThanks for answering my questions pretty fast. I think this is my new favorite forum!
Welcome to the clubhouse! (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/wave.gif)
THANK YOU GUYS VERY MUCH! After adjusting the idle.. It is running much better! I was talking to a friend who told me usually someone cleans the carbs when it does not have alot of power and it feels slow.
I wanted to just have the bike idle around 1500 but when I did that, the rev's kept sticking.. Like the bike didnt want stop giving gas.. :) on some runs from a stop to about 50, the bike would stick at 4000 instead of dropping when I let off the throttle. When I change the idle to drop though, the problem seems to stop but then my bike starts to go low when idling. I can never get the best of both worlds..
I am just so relieved that I dont have to take my bike to a shop. Now.. onto my mirror problem and light output problem..
Whats the most used handle mirrors used on this site? I am still reading up on the mirror posts, but if someone wants to praise one of their mirrors please go ahead. :) I am also looking at doing that dual headlight mod, because I cant see past 8 feet at night with the brights.. I will contact the member who first posted about it.
Shuluke
PS. This site is awesome! Pictures of my bike will be posted tomorrow.
Finally a crappy picture of my bike with a friend.. enjoy!
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g200/bilalq908/bike.jpg)