So I just finished installing a new set of tires. I replaced the original Excedras with a new set of Sport Demons. I replaced everything in the reverse order that I removed it. As I was putting away my shop manuals, I noticed that the instructions state that the axle should be installed in the opposite direction to mine. Now since I had stock tires on and only 3000 miles on the bike, I don't think the wheel was ever removed (i.e. I think it was installed this way at the factory). Normally I wouldn't think the axle orientation matters, but I am concerned because both Clymer and Haynes make a point of saying the axle should go in from the rotor side.
The other confusing this is that the diagram in both manuals is opposite to what the photos and instructions say:
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc179/gs_beRto/axle_diagram.jpg)
The diagram shows the axle coming in opposite the rotor side, but the photo (and written instructions) show the axle coming in from the rotor side.
So, it boils down to this:
- 1. Which way is your front axle on?
- 2. What is the reason the shop manuals insist on this particular axle orientation?
- 3. Should I reinstall the wheel?
I really don't think it matters,but mine is in like the manual says.It's always been that way.To be safe I'd do it by the manual.
Mine had that lock nut on the brake side, rear lock nut on the chain side. dont think it matters too much :dunno_white:
Quote from: CndnMax on December 03, 2007, 08:52:50 PM
Mine had that lock nut on the brake side, rear lock nut on the chain side.
Same here. I have been careful to always reinstall both axles the same way I found them, even though I'm sure it doesn't matter very much.
On the front axle, one "convenience consideration" has to do with keeping all three tightening operations (axle nut, spacer bolt, caliper bolts) on the same side of the bike. Although you might argue that it's easier to deal with the speedometer hardware if you push the axle through from the rotor side. (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/dunno_black.gif)
LOL! That's a classic case of why you can't always trust the Illustrated Parts Catalog exploded views. In cases where the illustration and the written instructions vary, it is generally prudent to follow the written instructions.
My guess is the manual specifies installing the bolt from the rotor side to ensure that all the bolt grip is taken up on the clamp side before tightening the clamp bolt. Regardless, the service instructions make a point of installing it from the rotor side, so go ahead and do that. Does it really matter? Possibly not. Is it bad mojo? Definately! :icon_mrgreen:
My bolt is installed from the rotor side.
Believe me, you aren't the first guy to be suckered into trusting those handly little illustrations!
Hmmm... .....very interesting. Structually it makes no difference in my view but I would go with the nut on the LH side as you sit on the bike, same on the rear. There is a big split-pin in the nut and its not going to come off either way as long as its in place but its good Engineering practise when dealing with rotating components to get inertia on your side and aseambling it this way results in the axle having a tendancy to want to tighten into the nut as the bike moves forward. If the nut was on the RH it would want to back off.... but this is what the clamps are for...to prevent the axle-bolt from turning due to inertia and loosening the nut so you could argue it it makes no real difference LH or RH.
Remember also that your bike left Japan in a crate and it was built up at the dealers.
I didn't look at the diagram in the manual until after it was done. :( Instead, I was careful to reinstall everything the same way it came off. I find it especially curious that both Kerry and ben2go have the same (backwards?) orientation that I have.
One of the reasons I have both Clymer and Haynes is so that I can cross-reference directions that are unclear or seem incorrect. Since they agree on this issue (and since I'm a paranoid maintenance kind-of-guy), I'll reverse the axle anyways.
p.s. sledge, I like your inertia explanation; it helps me to justify the inconvenience of repeating work.
edit - I thought about it some more, and because the front axle doesn't rotate I believe that inertial loads would be negligible. I think I'm actually OK to leave the axle on as-is (maintenance paranoia, be damned!). :icon_lol:
you can always switch it around on the next maintenece run.
Quote from: beRto on December 03, 2007, 08:46:56 PM
I am concerned because both Clymer and Haynes make a point
Hmm Which manual would you rather believe? Or Suzuki own workshop manual :nono:
Good point - why didn't I think of that? (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/doh.gif)
I checked the [FRONT WHEEL (http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/1997/Motorcycles/2104_45.gif)] parts fiche for my 1999 model ... and guess what? :icon_rolleyes:
I always put mine in the direction so that the threaded nut end is on the brake side (right side if looking head on)
I think in theoritical truth it dosn't matter because its an axle, a round metal straight piece of hardware in which all the bearings spin on, so unless you have some groves worn into the axle bolt its a 50/50 :dunno_white: I agree that inertia is just "good habits" and negliable when you crank it down then put a cotter pin through it....
I'd say the diagram is wrong....the pictures are right. The usually do the maintence there in a "shot" so its still fresh in someone head...They probably add the diagrams into the print versions of the text probably after the photo editing...That's my logic
If any one cares the factory manual has the nut and cotter pin on the brake side, like the parts fiche, who knows :mad:
If I'm going to pull the front wheel, I loosen the axle nut and caliper bolts before lifting the wheel from the ground so I'll keep the axle nut on the brake side where Suzuki put it. Saves an old man from walking around the bike a couple extra times. :laugh:
And I'll keep the rear axle nut on the chain side where it makes chain adjustment, wheel installation, and wheel alignment easier.
Quoteauthor=metnab link=topic=39024.msg438314#msg438314 date=1196809137]
I am concerned because both Clymer and Haynes make a point
Hmm Which manual would you rather believe? Or Suzuki own workshop manual :nono:
Ooops :cookoo:
Should have included the picture, its at
http://i12.tinypic.com/80pmvb4.png
mike
Rear should be swapped so the nut goes on the can side. If you crash it will be protected a bit more than it it was on the chain side.
Front I dont believe can be flipped.
Cool.
Srinath.
This is really helpfull! :cookoo:
We just did tires and Sonic Springs w new 15 wt fork oil. Had a big fight about spacers. Husband was never taught metric system. LSS: rear nut on chain side, front on same side when we removed everything, with bike propped up and also strapped to wall ring.
Back together tonight after 4 hours, plus cleanup and gazing lovingly at restored moto. Front axle nut now on opposite (rotor) side, like Suzuki says,
Whew, the most convincing argument up until we saw the Suzuki diagram was "MOJO"! :laugh:
Will find out tomorrow, don't know if there is enough sag (there is actually NO perceptible sag) but giving the bike a good rocking forward and back with front brake applied to check diving made quite a positive impression.
Katana rear shock next on the list, any suggestions for how to find a clean and sound one???
Thanks for this thread, it was helpful! :icon_mrgreen:
You guys ROCK! :bowdown:
I'm pretty sure the nut is supposed to be on the side with the spacer (the thing which is clamped by the 10mm (head) bolt). It probably doesn't matter... On my katana f/e, the spacer is on the opposite side... so i don't know how dropping the bike one way or the other will make a difference, you still drop your bike and screw stuff up.. the threads getting scraped off should probably be of least concern. (like whether you cracked your alternator cover on the last wheelie and are now dumping oil all along the straightaway, that kind of thing...)