hey i'm new, but i been lookin on the forums for awhile. I just got an 05 gs 500 about 2 months ago. i bought it from a guy who put 2 miles on it because he fell off and never rode it again. so it sat, brand new with 2 miles on it for 2 years on top of a parking garage. when i first got it it had issues just idling, as it would idle for a little while then turn off. so i put in some sea foam which seemed to fix the problem, and it ran smooth for about a month. Then on a ride one night it broke down in the middle of no where, the rpms just slowly dropped with the throttle fully pulled. so i'd have to pull over and prime it, then drive it till it'd stop again. i cleaned out the gas tank and filter, checked the valves, and pulled out the carburetor and checked one of the fuel reservoirs, but everything was clean and didn't see any apparent problem. when i put it back together it ran great... for about 2 weeks, not on the way home from work the same kinda thing happened, rpms would die, or if i'd stop it'd just stall out immediately. Except now i can't even prime it and get it to start. So i did the same procedure as last time cept i took apart the petcock too which was also clean and still it won't start. One note though, the bike was on PRI on my way home from work, which i know is def not a good thing, but is that bad enough to cause this?? Anyway any ideas or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated as i'm not very mechanically educated or inclined, but really don't want to have to take it to a shop. THANKS!
how do your plugs look like?? did you ckeck them?
Hmmmm ... an interesting case.
The part about it "bogging until it stops" sounds for all the world like the bike is simply out of fuel. Especially when setting the fuel selector to PRIme gets it running again. That doesn't sound electrical, unless you sit long enough for things to cool down (which could conceivably mask a "connection or component goes bad when it gets hot" problem).
Since I don't know how much you know, please don't be offended if I ask questions about your fuel level. In my experience (like, the first day I got my GS) it can LOOK like there's "plenty of gas" in the tank when there's really only enough to run the bike in the PRIme position. If you're anywhere close to your last gallon, you need to be ready to switch to REServe when the bike starts bogging down.
Your '05 is different from my '99 in that the PRIme position on the fuel selector switch is in between the ON and the REServe positions. That's an advantage, because it's good practice to switch to PRIme momentarily before continuing on to the REServe position. (On pre-'01 bikes you would have to go past REServe to PRIme, and then back again.)
To answer your implied question about running the bike in the PRIme position ... the only "bad" thing about it is that if you run out of fuel in the PRIme position, you are truly OUT. (Well, you can sometimes lean the bike to the left and drain a little more fuel from the tank, but you won't get very far that way.) Using PRIme will not harm the engine. The ideal scenario is:
* Set the switch to ON when you fill up
* Switch to REServe (via the PRIme position) when the bike starts
to "bog". Start looking for a gas station....
* Switch to PRIme if the bike starts to "bog" in the REServe position.
* If the bike bogs and stops in PRIme, use the "lean to the left" trick to
save a few miles' wear-and-tear on the soles of your riding boots. :icon_rolleyes:
If you feel that you truly have plenty of fuel, we'll need to come up with a step-by-step process of elimination to figure out what else the problem could be. One other fuel-related possibility (besides a faulty fuel selector switch) is a "buckle" or an upward-pointing arc in the line between the switch and the carbs. There was an OLD thread (not sure if I could even find it now) where someone installed clear fuel line and was somehow able to see bubbles in the line when his bike started to "bog". He was going to try to arrange the line so it would be as strictly "downhill" as possible from the switch to the carbs ... but I can't remember what came of it.
Oh, one other thing. Make sure you're not riding for very long with the choke on. That WILL kill the engine when it's hot and you let the bike idle ... say ... at a stop light or something. DAMHIKT :oops:
Quote from: Kerry on January 03, 2008, 01:31:42 AM
(On pre-'01 bikes you would have to go past REServe to PRIme, and then back again.)
I didn't know that. I've had the situation of running low, and trying to switch directly to RES to find it needed priming. After a few minutes of fiddling with PRIME and hoping I wouldn't kill the battery, I sloshed it left and it had just enough to go to the next station. Of course it _looked_ like there was plenty of gas.
Quote from: ohgood on January 03, 2008, 05:25:18 AM
Quote from: Kerry on January 03, 2008, 01:31:42 AM
(On pre-'01 bikes you would have to go past REServe to PRIme, and then back again.)
I didn't know that.
Yep! Perhaps it's time to trot out a couple of old pics in the interest of "general enlightenment". BTW, does anyone have a photo of an '07 fuel selector switch? I believe it has a different arrangement (of hose connections, at least) than the '01....
(http://bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1307_FramePetcock_1999_Annotated.jpg)
(http://bbburma.net/MiscFotos/100_1306_FramePetcock_2001_Annotated.jpg)
I understand the need to prime the bowls before switching to RES, I recently wanted to run my tank to RES, I wanted to know the miles I had before I had to switch. I was surprised at the result but it may have to be due to riding style. My question to Kerry is, can the RES tube in the tank be set differently on different bikes? Wodyson I am not mechanically inclined as well, that is one of the reasons why I bought the GS500. I am finding the the bike is making more so inclined with every new issue :thumb:
Quote from: Dan02GS on January 03, 2008, 10:05:08 AMI recently wanted to run my tank to RES, I wanted to know the miles I had before I had to switch. I was surprised at the result but it may have to be due to riding style.
Was it higher than you expected, or lower? (My guess is lower. :icon_confused:)
Quote from: Dan02GS on January 03, 2008, 10:05:08 AMMy question to Kerry is, can the RES tube in the tank be set differently on different bikes?
By "set differently" I assume you mean "set at a different height in the tank"? I wouldn't expect much variation in the manufacture of the tank-mounted petcock ... which still has the original '89 part number. But the '01+ tank
does have a different shape than the pre-'01 tank (not sure how different they are on the bottom of the interior though). Also, I seem to remember that some GS owners have accidentally pulled one or both of the metal tubes right out of their tank-mounted petcock. (Can anyone confirm?) If those tubes can be pulled out, then perhaps they can be inserted to different "depths".
Quote from: Dan02GS on January 03, 2008, 10:05:08 AMWodyson I am not mechanically inclined as well, that is one of the reasons why I bought the GS500. I am finding the the bike is making more so inclined with every new issue :thumb:
Before I got my '99 in 2000, I knew very little about the mechanical aspects of motorcycles. Oh, I knew how the 4-stroke cycle was supposed to work, and about spark plug gaps and so on, but I'd never been into a carburetor ... or worked on brakes ... or swapped a chain ... or lubed a cable ... or
anything. But the GS has been a great first bike
because it is so easy to work on.
A few years ago I rode a friend to a dealership to pick up his new-to-him Yamaha YZFR600. With a few years of GS500 experience under my belt, I encouraged him to turn down the extended warranty, assuring him that he could do his own work on the bike and that I would be happy to help. As a gift, I ordered a Haynes manual for him. When it arrived at my house, I flipped through the manual ... and wondered if I had done the right thing by my friend. There is WAY more to that bike than there is to the GS! Luckily, I don't think he ever had to do much more than change the oil.... (whew!)
Anyway, I'm grateful that I don't HAVE to take the bike to a dealer for every little thing. It's been a pretty fun journey ... so far! :thumb:
Yes you guessed it, trip odometer said 179 on my '02 tank. Much lower then I expected. I was estimating around 200. I am inclined to think that the RES tube can be moved up or down and set to what ever RES you want. I would be totally fine with a 25 mile reserve, hum something new to try to figure out. :cheers:
So i have not had a chance to check the plugs, but that's what i was planning on doing next. haha i actually sloshed it around and heard gas in the tank and assumed there was enough in there, only after your suggestion did i look and see that there was in fact very little in there. so i put 2 gallons in there, put in on PRI for a bit and proceeded to start it up but same thing after multiple attempts. i forgot to check the arc of the valves from the switch to the carb, so i'll check that when i get home from work tonight. i put the throttle cables on backwards so i'm gonna have to take it apart somewhat anyhow. i hate having the issues but i'm def learning from them and that is a good thing, because i knew NOTHING before i got the bike.
Quote from: wodyson on January 03, 2008, 01:46:28 PMi put 2 gallons in there, put in on PRI for a bit and proceeded to start it up but same thing after multiple attempts.
So, it started on PRI but then ... what? Could you give more detail about the "multiple attempts" and the results?
It's possible that you have the "blocked filler cap vent" problem, where no air can get into the tank through the cap, and that eventually prevents fuel from flowing out of the tank. To test that, try opening your filler cap the next time the engine starts to "bog". (You
do have a second key, right? ;)) You could pull over and do the test, but it's so much more
exciting to perform this kind of test while you're flying down the road. NOT!
Seriously, it would be a better test if you could somehow pop the cap
while the engine is still running/bogging. If the engine picks up and smooths out, you'll know that what you did made the difference.
sorry i didn't make that last post clear, i was tryin to get it all out while at work. no after putting in the gas and primin for awhile still nothing happened, the starter would just make it's noise, as if there were no gas in it, and i tried it multiple times, PRI for awhile then crank it on ON, tried PRI then crankin it on RES. none of it worked. tried it flat out on PRI as well.
and actually i lost my other key! but i'll see what i can figure out about the vent, although, when i was sloshin around the tank after PRIming it today i heard a sucking noise coming out of the cap so i have a feeling it's alright. well i got all night tonight to work on it so hopefully something can be figured out. i gotta get it up and running by monday cuz school starts and i gotta a parking decal for it, but without the bike i will be walking a long long way!
Quote from: wodyson on January 03, 2008, 05:10:30 PMafter putting in the gas and primin for awhile still nothing happened, the starter would just make it's noise, as if there were no gas in it, and i tried it multiple times, PRI for awhile then crank it on ON, tried PRI then crankin it on RES. none of it worked. tried it flat out on PRI as well.
Hmmm. In that case, then yeah ... take a look at the plugs. They ought to be damp after all that cranking. If they're not, then we need to look for more fuel route problems.
Did you turn the tank-mounted petcock back ON after checking the carbs the second time? (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/dunno_black.gif)
Quote from: Kerry on January 03, 2008, 07:37:00 PM
Did you turn the tank-mounted petcock back ON after checking the carbs the second time? (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/dunno_black.gif)
Yea i did remember to turn that on.
It was too cold last night to take it apart so i'm gonna do it this morning. the only thing is i'm not really quite sure what to look for in the plugs. and you mentioned them being damp after cranking. so since it's sat over night should i try cranking again before i do this? thanks in advance for any help you can offer and also for the help so far! I definitly feel more confident this might one day be remedied with the help of this forum.
Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 07:27:21 AM
i'm not really quite sure what to look for in the plugs. and you mentioned them being damp after cranking. so since it's sat over night should i try cranking again before i do this?
Me being the "over-analyze" type, I'd check the plugs both before and after cranking. Better yet, if I found they were damp or dirty, I'd clean 'em up before reinstalling and cranking.
There's a spark plug "socket" in the toolkit, but I tend to loosen them with a regular 18mm wrench and then spin them out by hand. Make sure that no "junk" (rust, dirt, etc) falls into the open hole....
i got a chance to switch the throttle cables and while doing so noticed that there was barely any gas in the valves leading from the tank to the petcock. shouldn't they have been loaded with gas? anyway when i get home from work today i'll check the flow from the tank out, and also the plugs. thanks again for the help, i'll post later when i can take another look.
Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 09:42:12 AM
i got a chance to switch the throttle cables and while doing so noticed that there was barely any gas in the valves leading from the tank to the petcock. shouldn't they have been loaded with gas?
By "valves" I assume that you mean "hoses"? Yes, they should be full of fuel. With two gallons of fuel in the tank I would expect them BOTH to be full, but certainly the RES hose if not the other one.
Since things are sounding suspicious between the tank petcock and the fuel selector switch, you might want to do a variation of [THIS TEST (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=8693.msg73441#msg73441)]. I say "a variation" because you may not have the extra hose and couplers. You could set an empty gas can on a chair or something, and feed both hoses into it. This can get tricky without a friend to help, but you can probably figure something out.
The idea in having you do this "test" is:
A) To make sure neither hose is blocked.
B) To get a look at the petcock drain screen inside the tank (if possible). Is it "clean"?
(Using a flashlight for illumination is OK. Using a match or a lighter is "right out". :o)
Quote from: Kerry on January 04, 2008, 10:07:51 AM
By "valves" I assume that you mean "hoses"? Yes, they should be full of fuel. With two gallons of fuel in the tank I would expect them BOTH to be full, but certainly the RES hose if not the other one.
Yes i meant hoses haha.
So i tested the flow of gas from the tank down to the mounted petcock, and it was fine. so now i'm taking off the fairings (actually only one side of the fairing because the other has been such a complete pain to get back on, i'm hoping that one plug will be an indication of the other, but let me know if i'm being to presumptuous) to check the plugs, but i i don't have an 18mm wrench (my set stops at 17....) and i'm having a hard time with the spark plug socket as it has some rubber thing in the middle and i guess i'm just timid to try and force it on hard as i'm afraid of breaking the plug... but i'll head back out now and man up i guess.
ok so i checked the spark plug and from what i can tell they seem to be fine, no buildup or anything.
someone pointed out to me someone else on a different forum who had what sounded ike a similar problem in which the issue was with the float height. so i'm thinking of checking that tomorrow after work. I tell you the things i could accomplish if i didn't have to work.
could anything cause my float height to be off with so little miles on the bike though, it's at like 400 miles right now?
Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 09:31:56 PM
ok so i checked the spark plug and from what i can tell they seem to be fine, no buildup or anything.
Hmmm ... and you checked them before and after "cranking" the bike? No build up (of carbon or "gunk" I assume), but were they "damp" at all?
Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 09:31:56 PM
could anything cause my float height to be off with so little miles on the bike though, it's at like 400 miles right now?
Since the bike is 2+ years old, with very few miles, it's possible that some of the fuel in the float bowls "gummed up" at some point. But ... didn't you say you'd been into the carbs? Maybe I misunderstood....
Anyway, before you open 'em up, you may want to try the ol'
Float Height Check (http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm) trick.
no, i didn't try it after cranking it. i will try that as well.
i have been into the carbs, or at least the float bowls, and everything seemed clean, other than that i had no idea to look for as far as float height and so on.
on my way home from work i will get some of the clear tubes for the test and let you know. also i was gonna get some new screws as the aluminum ones in the carbs are sssoo easy to strip. is it necessary that i get aluminum screws for it? i assume that they used this type for a reason.
Ok so let me give an update of what i did today.
One major discovery was that my float bowls were empty, so that explains why it sounded like it was out of gas when i cranked it.
I fed the fuel line leading into the carb bowls and put the carburetor back in place. When I cranked it it would run for about 3 seconds and then die. So I plugged a clear vinyl tube from the petcock into the carb to make sure the gas was flowing into the carb. when I cranked it there was no gas flow.
I wanted to test the petcock so i unplugged the clear vinyl tubing from the carb and put it on PRI and gas flowed through.
I unplugged the vacuum line from the petcock and made sure there was a vacuum which there was.
I pulled off the petcock again and checked to make sure everything looked good, which as far as i can tell it did, everything was clean, except the membrane was lightly white, but not something that came off, but didn't seem restrictive necessarily.
So why does the bike start for a few seconds and then die when the float bowl had gas in it? Also why does gas not flow from the petcock into the carburetor.
Another thing that seems weird is that I didn't realize on the tank petcock that on position is actually in between the screw twisted all the way left or right. But this whole time i had been riding with it turned all the way to the right, that was 2 weeks, why did fuel flow during that time and then all of a sudden stop?
After doing all this i feel much more enlightened on how my bike works and much more confused on what the problem is.
First of all, kudos for "digging in" and trying
several combinations. (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/clap.gif) I think we're getting somewhere, and the detailed data helps a
lot.
Quote from: wodyson on January 05, 2008, 06:55:57 PMSo why does the bike start for a few seconds and then die when the float bowl had gas in it?
The fact that it runs
at all tells me that your jets aren't clogged; that air coming from the air filter and through the carbs is appropriately sucking fuel from the float bowls (through the jets), atomizing it and supplying it to the cylinders. That's good! :thumb:
Quote from: wodyson on January 05, 2008, 06:55:57 PMAlso why does gas not flow from the petcock into the carburetor.
Ahhh.... there's the rub. If fuel can't get into the float bowls to replace fuel that's being "sucked out" by the airflow, it's reasonable to assume that a kind of vacuum would build up and prevent further fuel from being "sucked out" of the bowls, even though the bowls have fuel in them.
I'm not intimately acquainted with the '04+ carbs (I've never seen one up close) but I have two ideas. I'll be referring to [
THIS DIAGRAM (http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/2004/Motorcycles/7247_13A.gif)] as I go.
1) There may be a blockage in the fuel delivery system.You may want to inspect the "T fitting" where the hose from the petcock attaches. (Diagram item 48) I suspect the "T fitting" because the problem seems to be affecting both carbs.
If that fitting seems clean (you can blow air through it) you'll need to work your way toward each carb from there. It would be great if you had access to the "carb end" of each of the tubes that connects the "T fitting" to the carbs ... but I doubt you will. Perhaps you can shoot some carb cleaner into each tube, stop up the open end with a plug of some kind, and then "let the cleaner work" for a while? You may need to repeat the treatment a few times.
2) The float needle valves may be stuck shut.It would be odd for BOTH valves to be stuck shut, but I guess it's possible.... How could they have gotten stuck shut? Hmmmm. Getting gunk in the float seats tends to make the valves stick open, not shut. Is it possible that you fiddled with the float assembly (Diagram item 24) or the needle valve assembly (Diagram item 21) when you had the float bowls off? What we're looking for is floats that are either stuck, or set (way) too low.
You kinda have to think backwards when it comes to the floats ... because you usually only tweak them when they're upside down on your workbench. But if you think about them "in place" in the bike:
The height at which the floats are set determines the average level of fuel
in the float bowls. Obviously, the floats actually "float" in the fuel in the bowl.
The metal tab between the floats moves along with them, so when it contacts
the needle at the top of the float chamber it closes the valve and stops the
flow of fuel into the float bowl. As fuel is "sucked out" of the bowl through the
jets, the fuel level drops, the valve opens, and more fuel is admitted from the
petcock. This raises the floats, which closes the valve ... you get the picture.
When the floats are set really low (meaning that the metal tab between the
floats is bent significantly upwards :icon_confused:) the valve closes when there is a relatively
small amount of fuel in the bowl.
If the tab is bent downward it doesn't close the valve until the floats have risen
higher - meaning that more fuel has been allowed in - so the fuel is kept at a
higher level.
As you can imagine, this is a rather delicate assembly, meaning that a very minor tweak can result in a large swing in the float height / fuel level. If you suspect that any inadvertent "adjustments" have been made ... it may be time to pull the carbs and do a proper float height adjustment.
Quote from: wodyson on January 05, 2008, 06:55:57 PMAnother thing that seems weird is that I didn't realize on the tank petcock that on position is actually in between the screw twisted all the way left or right.
Oops! Well, sillier things have happened to all of us, I dare say.
Quote from: wodyson on January 05, 2008, 06:55:57 PMBut this whole time i had been riding with it turned all the way to the right, that was 2 weeks, why did fuel flow during that time and then all of a sudden stop?
Whoa ... chalk that one up to "anti-gremlins" or something! (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/dunno_black.gif)
Quote from: wodyson on January 05, 2008, 06:55:57 PMAfter doing all this i feel much more enlightened on how my bike works
Glad to hear it!
Quote from: wodyson on January 05, 2008, 06:55:57 PMand much more confused on what the problem is.
S'OK ... hang in there! 8)
uuuughhhh. so i had a little bit of time to play around with the bike today. i didn't have a small enough clear vinyl tube to test the float height with, and i didn't really have the guts to pull the 2 carbs apart to check the T fitting of the fuel delivery, because of all the other things involved in getting them apart. but manually fililng the carb from there (by simply pouring gas in the T fitting) worked, so i was figuring and hoping it was clean. I blew on the (item 49 from the diagram) carb breather? and noticed that it looked like the jets rose? or maybe gas was just moving up them, i couldn't tell, and gas came out of the T fitting of the fuel delivery of the carb. I didn't have carb cleaner, and i'm not sure if i any longer have time to work on it now that school is tomorrow... any way
i put everything back together and put the bike on PRI and heard gas flowing! i was excited to ever hear that as i couldn't before and cranked the bike and it started! and kept going! i can't explain how good it felt to get back on the bike...but...
i was riding now (first ride since it started working) to church and i was feeling very light lurches, so light that i was having a problem telling if it was just small bumps in the road, or if it was having problems again. anyway it seemed to go away, i drove about 5 miles and arrived at church. was there for about 2 hours. on the way back it went about 3 miles and then started lurching and then died while approaching a red light, i started it back up before it came to a complete stop without a problem, went another mile and there were noticeable lurches, i would pull on the throttle and it was not really responding, lurched a few times then died. i pulled over and PRImed it started it back up and got to my house (half a mile away).
now i'm very drained from thinking it was working and then this again. school starts tomorrow and i will have no time to work on it but i need it to get to school for parking reasons (no car parking). i really want to figure out what the problem is, and i'd really like to do it without taking it into the shop. but i think i'm just gonna have to try and get it up there.
Quote from: wodyson on January 06, 2008, 06:54:35 PMi didn't have a small enough clear vinyl tube to test the float height with
Yeah, that stuff took me a while to find....
Quote from: wodyson on January 06, 2008, 06:54:35 PMand i didn't really have the guts to pull the 2 carbs apart to check the T fitting of the fuel delivery, because of all the other things involved in getting them apart.
Can't say as I blame ya! They keep adding more and more "stuff" around the carbs as the years go by.... :icon_confused:
Quote from: wodyson on January 06, 2008, 06:54:35 PMi put everything back together and put the bike on PRI and heard gas flowing! i was excited to ever hear that as i couldn't before and cranked the bike and it started! and kept going! i can't explain how good it felt to get back on the bike
Nice results so far....
Quote from: wodyson on January 06, 2008, 06:54:35 PM...but... [...] lurched a few times then died.
Grrrr!
Quote from: wodyson on January 06, 2008, 06:54:35 PMi pulled over and PRImed it started it back up and got to my house (half a mile away).
[...] school starts tomorrow and i will have no time to work on it but i need it to get to school for parking reasons (no car parking). i really want to figure out what the problem is, and i'd really like to do it without taking it into the shop. but i think i'm just gonna have to try and get it up there.
So, would you say that the bike runs well (no lurching or dying) in the PRIme position? If so, that's what I would do as a stopgap measure until you have a long enough break to do some more work on it.
The problem with taking it to the shop is:
* It will cost a lot
* It will most likely take a long time
* It
may come back no better (or even worse) than before
If the bike runs well in the PRI position, the final solution may be as simple as replacing the fuel selector (ON / PRI / RES) switch. In the meantime you can just switch it to ON when you park if you're worried about possible "flooding".
If it
doesn't run well in the PRI position then your options do become somewhat limited ... since you need the bike for transportation. :cry:
You may have been through this already, but the petcock position is crucuial. O have an '06 GS500F and after taking my tank off for the first time, I forgot to replace the petcock shutoff to the correct position. The bike started fine, idled fine and ran fine - for a few minutes. Then it started lurching. It would idle fine, but wouldn't rev without sputtering. I popped the back of the tank up and turned the petcock shutoff to the vertical position, in other words, with the screwdriver slot going up and down. No problem after that. Might be worth checking again as it will be a problem if the slot is in a horizontal position.
just wanted to give a quick update. i rode the bike on RES for 40 miles last night and didn't notice any problems... so i think i'm gonna ride it to school tomorrow and hopefully still not have any problems eh? so maybe it is in fact just the petcock switch?
what would be a good way to test conclusively that that is indeed where the problem lies?
Again, you may have already done this, but have you checked the filter screen inside the tank yet? I remember earlier in this thread you said you had the petcock apart, but I'm wondering if it included the filter screens. It could be that the filter screen inside the tank is gummed up by dirty fuel, warter, etc. It might explain the intermittent nature of your problem as the filter can be partially plugged and partially working, but would get either worse or better as things slosh around in the tank and/or the fuel level changes.
You can either take the tank off and remove the petcock and filter, or possibly try back flushing gas through the petcock. In either case, I'd then use some fresh gas to swish around in the tank and dump it out several times to make sure any gunk that is backwashed out of the filter is removed from the tank. But I think the best thing to do though is remove the tank and the petcock completely.
Yea i checked the filter inside the tank awhile ago by taking it out, and it was clean. I also as best as i could, using sunlight, checked the inside of the tank but it all looked clean. But I will when i have a chance take another look at it. Also I am not sure about all the functions of the petcock and how it really should look, but from taking that apart it seemed to be really clean too. Well right now all i can do is keep my fingers crossed on the way too school till i get a chance to check it out i spose...