I have an 89 GS500E that wont' start if i use the starter switch. I replaced it with an another working switch but still no luck.
The only way i could get the bike to start is by using a direct wire from the battery to the solenoid. I am clueless what to check next. The battery, clutch switch, fuses all look ok.
Any thoughts from the experts?
I'm not sure how much the '89 wiring differs from the '90-'96 wiring, but see if [THIS POST (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13041.msg109963#msg109963)] by John Bates helps at all.
You mentioned the clutch switch, but not the engine kill switch or the sidestand switch. (?)
Quote from: Kerry on February 07, 2008, 02:00:09 PM
I'm not sure how much the '89 wiring differs from the '90-'96 wiring, but see if [THIS POST (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13041.msg109963#msg109963)] by John Bates helps at all.
You mentioned the clutch switch, but not the engine kill switch or the sidestand switch. (?)
I will check the posting. The first thing i made sure is that the sidestand swtich is enabled. Thanks
Do you hear a "click" when you push the starter button? If you do, but the starter motor doesn't turn over, the problem may be in your starter relay.
If you don't hear a click, the problem could still be in the relay ... but it may be that the relay isn't getting juice in the first place.
The best thing might be to use a continuity tester to follow all the way through the circuit. If you have (or want to own) a multimeter, that's great. But for this test all you need is a simple unit like this:
(http://media.mydoitbest.com/imagerequest.aspx?sku=317934&size=2&warehouse=C&newsize=200)
or even just a 12v bulb in a holder, with long wires attached.
Using [John Bates' diagram (http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k304/miphotoz_2006/gs500startckt700pix.jpg)], I would begin at the "ENGINE STOP SWITCH" connection.
1) With the ignition switch ON, touch one lead from your tester to
the connection where the orange-blue wire is attached to the
engine stop switch. Touch the other lead to the negative battery
post, or to any unpainted metal part of the frame or engine. The
bulb should light up, telling you that there is a complete circuit from
the battery, through the fuse, through the ignition switch, through
the sidestand relay contacts, to your test point (and then through
the tester and back to the battery).
If the bulb doesn't light, you will need to test a little further
"upstream" (nearer the "+" battery terminal) until it does. When
it lights, you will know that something is wrong between your last
two test points.
2) If your first test is OK, set the ENGINE STOP SWITCH to ON and test
at the connection where the orange-white wire attaches to the
ENGINE STOP SWITCH.
3) If that test is OK, test at the connection where the orange-white
wire attaches to the START SWITCH.
4) If that test is OK, push the START SWITCH and test at the connection
where the yellow-green wire connects to the START SWITCH.
5) If that test is OK, push the START SWITCH and test at the connection
where the yellow-green wire attches to the CLUTCH SWITCH. (Both
wires supposedly have the same coloring, so test them both.)
6) If that test is OK, tie the clutch lever close to the handlebar somehow,
push the START SWITCH and test at the connection where the other
yellow-green wire connects to the CLUTCH SWITCH.
7) If you get this far, the only thing left is the wire between the CLUTCH
SWITCH and the START RELAY WINDING. Or the starter relay itself, of
course.
Hi, Kerry
I have the same problem as the OP. My testing fails at #4 what do I do now?