Talking with Bob yesterday about the GS, he informed me there is a spot on the left side of the rotor (under the cover) that you can bolt another GS Front rotor on no problem and have 2 discs. So I thought why not get another right fork with the mounts for the caliper bracket and put it on the left and get another rotor, caliper, and mount and do something about the master cylinder (I think just a longer banjo bolt with for 2 brake lines to attach) and slap it on the GS? This sound like it would work, anyone try it?
Only problems I can see is maybe the caliper and bracket would mount up right on the left but dunno.
Two things:
The bolt hole on the right side is much larger than the left but I'd imagine you could use the bolt sleeve just like in on the right side.
Second I don't think the caliper mount on the lower tube is centered so that may cause the caliper to be out of plane with the rotor.
No you cant bolt a right fork leg on the left sode and make it a 2 caliper thing...You need the left leg off a Bandit 400...The B4 uses 1 disk on the left which is identical to the GS's disk and the wheel is the same as the GS with the cap on the other side.
Cool.
Srinath.
The B4 fork legs are 2mm thicker than the GS, you'd need both legs and the triples - or machine the GS triples to accept the larger legs.
You didn't think it would be simple did you? :lol:
You *can* use a second GS right leg on the left, you just need to make a pair of spacers to go between the leg and caliper bracket (5mm I think) and a pair of just as longer high grade bolts.
However I wouldn't do it. First thing is that the GS's little 37mm tubes bend and flex enough as it is, doubling the braking power will only make things worse. Another is that I can stoppie my wife's GS on its stock single disk with HH pads and a SS brake line. So it has enough stopping power already. In my experiance, the only reason to run double disks on a GS is to prevent excessive wear and heat build up. But thats only under race conditions, on the street its only wasted money on extra weight and *poser* value.
IMHO
YMMV
etc.
Why do you think you need twin front disc?
I have since sold my GS but did upgrade the brake line to the stainless steel type and used EBC brakes pads and never felt the need for any more front brakes. I also was using the single most important item in a qualoty brake system and that is a quality tire.
If you want killer brakes on the GS500 install better brake lines such as Stainless Steel or Kevlar type. Buy a set of EBC double-H brake pads and make sure you have a quality tire to allow for the brakes to work.
The setup above will cost less than adding an extra disc and all of its related parts. It will weigh less also.
Tod, you are soooo full of it!!!! :roll:
no wait...you are 100% correct!!!!
also if you try to do the bastardization....
a couple of things to consider....
if you install a second brake to match the one on the right....
you will not be able to run a fender
if you want to run a fender....the left brake will be in front of the fork leg...... and that would look silly
Tod, you still have that super COOL RZ/CBR?
Ah well just putting out an idea not that I bought a second rotor and caliper and everything.
My front brakes just feel spongy to me, I can bring them all the way in and the front never locks or does a stoppie. I bled the lines and put new fluid in. When I first got the bike the piston seal was leaking so I replaced it and bled it out, and it still felt spongy so I did it again last week and no change. Are the stock pads crap so that I should do those at the same time as I do the SS line? The bike only has 6k on it and had the caliper leak at around 2k when I bought it.
werase643- Oh yeah, you have to grind off the fork brace lugs and make and install one of those clamp style fork braces. :P
Jason- Either your master cylinder piston is defective and not producing enough pressure or...
you suck at brake bleeding. :nana:
Seriously, brakes are um... serious. And bleeding them well is an aquired skill. Sometimes its a pain to get all the air out of them and even a little bit will cause the sponginess you are encountering.
You have to bleed both the bleeder at the bottom AND the banjo bolt at the top, especally if you don't have a vaccuum bleeding device.
One thing that might help you is to "bench bleed" the system. take the entire brake system off the bike. caliper, line, master cylinder. Clamp the master in a bench vice or someplace solid and let the caliper hang straight down. Put something a little thicker than the rotor between the pads, something like a spare rotor or a peice of metal. then proceed to bleed it again, concentrating on cracking the top banjo because that is where the air bubbles will congregate. Re routing might be a little different because the line has to go around the headlight mounts, but it makes brake service easier.
Good luck,
James
Well they work I can stop but it seems to fade after the first bike that gets the weight to the front of the bike. But in combo with the rear brake the bike does come to a stop and isnt dangerous. So I will order the brake lines and pads while I am at it tommorow. That way I can be sure I bleed it all and prob borrow one of the vaccum bleeders.
Hey, Jason -
Don't let these party poopers slow you down!
JK - actually everybody makes very good points about the pros & cons of the mod you suggest, but what the hey? Whadda ya gonna do all winter long if you don't have some sorta project to keep ya sane?
My suggestion:
Make a mental list of the stuff you'd hafta collect to pull off this project & then keep you eyes open & try to gather as much of it as possible for free or nearly free & then once you've got all the pieces you need in a pile, go for it. Just don't do anything that will keep you from going back to the original setup if you find out your idea doesn't work out. Maybe dual disks isn't the trickest possible setup for a GS - but there's no harm in having 'em - & it might move the cool meter a little...
BTW, the SS braided brake lines is an excellent upgrade regardless of how many disks your bike ends up with, but I'm sure you already knew that.
BTW2, I talked to Jason & his dad for quite a while on Sunday night & I'm sure they are qualified to properly bleed brakes.
BTW3, the reason I went to the twin front disks on my GS is that I was blue-ing & warping my single disk (I was racing it, of course, & I was using EBC HH pads - if that's a factor, I dunno).
Tinker away!!!
Aaarrrrgggh
I hate it when the very instant I hit the 'submit' button I remember something else I wanted to say -
If you do the twin disk thing you gotta swap out your master cylinder - I think the GS is a 1/2 inch bore & what you'd want is probably more like a 5/8 inch bore. Remember that with two calipers you'd be moving twice as many pistons & therefor twice (about) as much fluid.
When I did my conversion I just went ahead & used GSXR calipers & master cylinder, all from the same model year, so everything matched.
Have fun...
hey bob,
shouldn't you be cleaning some VERY DIRTY CARBS!!!! :o
Hey hey now dont go shooting down my only saviour to this post!
Might just try it over this cold as hell MI winter since I wont be able to ride...as much.
Yeah I thought that looked like a GSXR Master cylinder on your race bike there but it looked real close to the GS one that I didnt know..and those racing stripes there with the silver and the black made it even harder to identify ;)
I get to try out the GSXR rear wheel upgrade tommorow and see how well that works. See if the fat rear tire gets the Bikini Bike wash babes wanting to wash my bike.
Anyone in the area 2 Wheel Tuesday up at recreation leisure in Farmington, free hotdogs and some other stuff. And of course the Bikini Bike Wash!
http://www.recleisure.com
QuoteIn my experiance, the only reason to run double disks on a GS is to prevent excessive wear and heat build up. But thats only under race conditions, on the street its only wasted money on extra weight and *poser* value.
I have warped 2 rotors, yes im big, and yes i did it while riding hard. i also believe if the GS had oppossing piston caliper on front it wouldnt warp quite as easy, all the rotors that gave up have all warped in same direction. including an EBC cast iron rotor thats in my parts box, im going to try to true it up and see what happens.
Quote from: werase643Tod, you are soooo full of it!!!! .
Tod, you still have that super COOL RZ/CBR?
Yes, but now it is a RZ/CBR/NSR/etc but it does have a GS500 clutch cable.
Quote...VERY DIRTY CARBS!!!! :o
Dude, I got carb guts spread from one end of my bench to the other! :o
With the carbs I already had plus the ones I got from you plus a piece or two I actually had to pay retail for, I think I almost got enough to make up one good pair !! LOL!
Actually, the truth is I got the beast running semi-OK on Sunday, I think a few small jet changes & it'll be good to go.
Where can I get main jets for cheeeeep??
It would be easier (and probably cheaper) to just put a Katana front end on. Dual rotors and 41mm forks to boot.