Im done checking the air filter, and its pretty clean. So I stuck it back in there. But Im debating changing to a K&N soon. The bike is stock. Ive done a search and find some people talking about needing a rejet if you change to a K&N. This true???
So if I do go to a K&N does it matter if I go with just a single cone in the stock box or the "lunchbox" style? (one better than other?)
Thanks again guys :bowdown:
Put a K&N drop in to your air box, plus add the restrictor ring and you shouldn't have to rejet.
Remove the restrictor ring and the filter will let too much air into the enjine causing a stock engine to run lean. ie: you'll need to rejet.
A K&N lunchbox filter will let in even more air, so it gives the best performance (but require more aggressive rejetting)
Quote from: galahs on February 13, 2008, 10:30:39 PM
Put a K&N drop in to your air box, plus add the restrictor ring and you shouldn't have to rejet.
Remove the restrictor ring and the filter will let too much air into the enjine causing a stock engine to run lean. ie: you'll need to rejet.
A K&N lunchbox filter will let in even more air, so it gives the best performance (but require more aggressive rejetting)
would u recommend using the restrictor ring and not rejeting or getting rid of it, and rejetting? (I want to someday get a full yosh exhaust and then rejet of course)
If you're planning on the full free flowing exhaust and intake someday, go on and get the K&N, rejett, then save up for the yosh. Then you can pawn your old jets off on someone here ;)
If you get a lunch box k&n, rejet for it, and it will be ready for the new exhaust (ie: no further rejetting required).
Otherwise get the k&n with the restrictor, and then when you get the exhaust remove the restrictor and rejet then.
Two notes:
The lunch box filter breathes a hell of a lot more air than the drop in filter. So more aggressive rejetting is required.
the lunch box filter makes the bike louder than stock.
Are there any advantages to a K&N with a restrictor ring?
I imagine the performance must be pretty much identical. The only benefits I can think of are that it may be less expensive (or more likely with K&N, reuseable) and that it may be easier to find than OEM. But I don't own one, so I don't know if this is accurate. Please clarify.
I went with an in-airbox K&N (with restrictor ring) because:
1) It doesn't need to be blown out every 2,000 miles and replaced every 4,000 :o
(In other words, COST)
2) There is no need to rejet. (I'm not interested.)
The K&N is supposed to be good for something like half a million miles. (http://bbburma.net/Smilies/dunno_black.gif) You can buy a multiple-use "recharge kit" to clean the filter and replenish the factory-applied oil once in a GREAT while. I have such a kit, but I haven't used it yet. (Maybe I should? :icon_rolleyes:) I've put at least 20,000 miles on my K&N so far. Probably closer to 30,000.
Great explanation! Thanks, Kerry. You've almost convinced me to buy one myself (I just installed a new OEM one and already bought a spare, but 8000 miles from now who knows?...) :thumb:
As the receipeint and beneficiary of Kerry's old paper filter ... it was very clean when I got it, not sure of what it has for miles, but this is my take on this ... and I have posted several times about this too ... anyway, here goes ...
The paper filter can be washed in gasoline and reused after drying. I have done 3 times with GS filters, 2 times with yamaha filters and I believe another 2 times with honda, only filter that fell apart was the yamaha 535 on the 3rd wash. Its similar to the GS except the end cap is plastic not metal. That cap fell out. I think it still was a manufacturing blemish rather than a case of the glue giving up, since the glue was nice and intact, the plastic fell off like it had oil on it at the time of glueing. I have started running the paper filetr in the airbox when I can mostly. Much much cleaner ... K&N is believe it or not, very dirty, just that the US and most of western europe is a non dusty climate mostly.
Cool.
Srinath.
As usual, I do it my way. :laugh: I use the OEM air filter and change it every 30k miles, about the same as for cars. Just ordered one from Ron Ayers this morning for $25. A K&N drop in from BikeBandit is $52 so that's about same cost for life of the bike for me.
Put two replacements in the 97 GS at 30k & 60k miles and parked it at 80k miles. I put one in the 02 GS around 30k miles and will put 2nd in when I do the valve check soon. Bike has 57k on it now. Works for me. :thumb:
Having more experience under my belt, I'm sure that is a fine way to go. Back when I was "green" and seeing the "change the filter every 4,000 miles" edict in the manuals, I took it as gospel. But only once.... ;)
Thanks for all the info. Dont know what Ill do yet. Go with airbox K&N or lunchbox..hmmmm ( louder bike sounds nice :icon_razz:
anyone have a pic of the lunchbox installd?
Here's high flow lunchbox
(http://www.addconsults.com/store/images/mesh%20lunch%20box.jpg)
:icon_mrgreen:
Nah check the wicki :thumb:
http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Upgrades/AirFilter
lol thanks for that. I like the idea of the lunchbox, I just hope rejetting isnt that difficult. My bike runs great now. :icon_confused:
Quote from: The Buddha on February 14, 2008, 11:58:42 AM
As the receipeint and beneficiary of Kerry's old paper filter ... it was very clean when I got it, not sure of what it has for miles, but this is my take on this ... and I have posted several times about this too ... anyway, here goes ...
The paper filter can be washed in gasoline and reused after drying. I have done 3 times with GS filters, 2 times with yamaha filters and I believe another 2 times with honda, only filter that fell apart was the yamaha 535 on the 3rd wash. Its similar to the GS except the end cap is plastic not metal. That cap fell out. I think it still was a manufacturing blemish rather than a case of the glue giving up, since the glue was nice and intact, the plastic fell off like it had oil on it at the time of glueing. I have started running the paper filetr in the airbox when I can mostly. Much much cleaner ... K&N is believe it or not, very dirty, just that the US and most of western europe is a non dusty climate mostly.
Cool.
Srinath.
Buddha!
Tell me something real quick,
You just dip the filter in gasoline and shake it?
is just that?
Tks
The manual, or at least my manual does not say to change the filter every 4000 miles, it says to change the filter every 12,000 kms.
I have washed the filter after 12,000km but it didn't seem much different as it was already very clean. However I didn't was it in gasoline, that sounds strange and dangerous, I used a method that I saw on youtube which was to leave the filter in a bucket of water with some detergent in it overnight then gently twist it clockwise and counter clockwise in the slightly soapy water for a while, then literally rinse and repeat. After which I let it dry for a day or two.
K&N seem to me a bunch of shonky con merchants. I bought one if their filters for my S40 and it was a frikken joke it's way too large and it will not seal so you'll let dirt and into your engine. I sent it back. I wrote to k&n and the email correspondence is embarrassment of bullsh!t. I kept getting handed off to different people and they kept asking for more information and when I gave them the information that they wanted they never replied. This went on a few times till I got sick of it. They don't give a f.uck about the customer or their product.
See photos below. Now this is not going to matter for a lot of people because they are convinced that K&N are brilliant. But as Groucho Marx said when an angry husband burst through the door and found his wife in Groucho's arms..."who are you going to believe, me, or your own eyes?"
(https://s10.postimg.cc/76fq72smd/comparison_size.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/76fq72smd/)
(https://s10.postimg.cc/r2bpmm9np/doesn_t_fit.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/r2bpmm9np/)
Quote from: user11235813 on June 28, 2018, 03:27:28 PM
I have washed the filter after 12,000km but it didn't seem much different as it was already very clean. However I didn't was it in gasoline, that sounds strange and dangerous, I used a method that I saw on youtube which was to leave the filter in a bucket of water with some detergent in it overnight then gently twist it clockwise and counter clockwise in the slightly soapy water for a while, then literally rinse and repeat. After which I let it dry for a day or two.
Hmmmmm... I think I could do that, before buy a new filter!
Great advice,
tks Mr User