I bought this right before Christmas from a guy that needed cash. It was sitting out in the cold RI snow (in a 2ft snow drift to be exact) and needed some TLC, so I didn't feel too bad for him. I've done some work on it, and got it to where I can get it running with starter fluid, but it won't idle or start without starting fluid. The last thing I checked is the oil... it's nice and tan, and looks like there might be water in it. I'm waiting to get the oil and filter to replace it this week... could that be the only problem keeping it from starting or should I look for something else? BTW, it was 45 deg. when I tried to start it. Should I throw a heater on it to warm up the block?
Here's what I've done so far:
1. Replace relay (thank you Kerry)
2. Cleaned carbs
3. Cleaned fuel lines, and tank
4. Vaccumed air filter
5. Replaced spark plugs
6. Drilled out the gas cap, and replaced with '01 GSXR1000 cap with some modification (looking for GS cap btw ;))
7. Reupholstered seat
-- Needs fork seals.
Will get a better pic up sometime soon. $400 for a decent ride.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f116/waltermax/1996%20GS500E/IMG_0310-1.jpg)
The before shot doesn't capture it that well. It was nice and beat up.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f116/waltermax/1996%20GS500E/seat1.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f116/waltermax/1996%20GS500E/seat.jpg)
There are 2 fuel valves 1 in the bottom of the tank,check it and make sure the slot for a screw driver is pointing up and down.Not side to side.Next is the frame petcock/fuel valve.Clean it out and try starting it with the valve set on PRI(PRIme).The frame mounted one is good for going bad.Vacuum from the engine opens the valve when it's in the ON position,and it closes the valve when the engine is off.This function fails quite regularly and the engine will only run in the PRI.Running the engine with the valve in the PRI position can cause a lean condition and lean conditions lead to engine damage.
After you check all your fuel lines like ben suggested--Go over the carbs again - make sure the little orings are in- vacuum lines etc are all right ( by a manual if you don't have one- makes things easier for you....). When you say you cleaned the carbs- what did you do specifically?
Did you physically remove the pilot jets and made sure they were clean? IE could see through them? They are pretty much what the bike runs on at idle. if they are blocked- it's not going to idle for you. Make sure the floats and all are set right and a carb "rebuild" (new needle valve/seat,new orings etc) at this point might not be a bad idea- start fresh).
Change the oil before you run it again ( I'd run it after you change the oil for a bit and do an oil change not long after that just to help clean it out). Did the guy that you got it from know how long it's been since it was running regularly?
No, not a bad ride for $400...
Good job on the seat.
Check the fuel tank for water and drain the carb float bowls as a start.
If you found it in a snow drift I bet it's been though a few thunderstorms too. The GS fuel caps aren't known for being waterproof! I had a gallon of water in mine. :laugh:
Doesn't look too bad overall. Certainly can't beat it for $400.
If you suspect there is water in the oil do not attempt to start it again until you've changed the oil. You'll pump the water around to all the moving components of the engine.
If you have a reddy heater or similar shop heater, point it at the engine for a few minutes before attempting to start it. A little heat always helps.
Nice job on the seat!
lucky lucky you !
that's the super sexy dark charcoal frame special !
congrats on an awesome loooking ride. you'll have it right as rain in no time.
:thumb:
lol, F***... I remember losing the little o-rings when I wiped it down. How much is that going to affect it?
When I "cleaned" the carbs, I just did a simple wipe down with a spray cleaner. Took off the top cover, wiped down the jets (should have but didn't spray anything inside of them), took off the float bowls, and cleaned the inside of them. When I go back for the o-rings, I'll soak the whole thing in some type of degreaser for a good hr or two.
I'm going to change the oil and see what it does first. If I don't get anything, I'll definitely go after the jets sooner than later.
Thanks guys!
as many bikes as ive rebuilt and fudged with, ive avoided cleaning carbs at all costs, looks like ill have to break down the ones on my buddies 96 and sort the issues out, anyone have any advice on what sort of degreaser NOT to use, or what to use, or anything like that?
ive got a bunch of this shaZam! - http://www.spartanchemical.com/sfa/MSDSRep.nsf/99b229d7d7868537852567e0006d7a64/be7c1ecb810d23ee85257155005f48ae!OpenDocument (http://www.spartanchemical.com/sfa/MSDSRep.nsf/99b229d7d7868537852567e0006d7a64/be7c1ecb810d23ee85257155005f48ae!OpenDocument)
or whatever i should drop those little bastards in the get them all pretty and new that wont cost me much?
i had a gs cap go awry on me, for your info they easy enough to just strip, and then you can use anything to open and close them thats key shaped, i never bothered to replace it.
The O-rings are important- Big vacuum leak- it's not going to idle and it wont really run.
Here's a how to from this site : http://gstwin.com/carb_work.htm
Take the carbs back off- remove the pilot jets ( buy a Manual- lots of diagrams and such to make your job easier) . Clean the pilot jets and re-install them. Clean all the little orifices in the carb bodies (only work on one carb at a time) with a spray carb cleaner and then blow them out.
Make sure the diaphragms up top are in good condition (not rotted,cut, cracked whatever..) and seated right when you close the carbs back up. Make sure the slides aren't sticking at all and are clean.
If the air mix screws are exposed ( they have caps on them that have to be drilled to get at the first time)-turn them all the way in gently--- COUNTING the turns in and the put them back where they were ( counting the turns back out)- I do this to make sure nothing is clogged up in there.
Like I said before- do yourself a favor and get some "rebuild kits" ( $12 each kit at www.partsnmore.com part number 48-1947 ) they will have the O-rings you need as well as a new float needle/seat and bowl gasket. Get some good screwdrivers and an impact driver for those hard to loosen screws that haven't moved in a decade plus-unless you like removing stripped screws..
CD, some people actually use diesel to clean the carbs up- if you're going to do a "hot bath" you'll want to pull all the plastic parts out.
I use the spray carb/choke cleaner (Gumout I think...) - I haven't had any carbs that bad that I've had to tank clean them yet . I clean all the crap out of the bowls- remove the jets and clean them out- and do all the other stuff I've already mentioned.
90% of the time or more it's the Pilot jets are clogged up , bike sits...fuel evaporates out of the carbs....all the additives in the gas stay there and crust it all up. Pilot jets are small so they clog easy .
The additives often have a red color to them so people generally think it's rust- sometimes it is really rust froma cruddy tank- but not always.
Good Luck.
Jared, the carb rebuild kits are all for 89-93 (K-P). Mine is a 96 T. There shouldn't be any difference, right?
Quote from: ohgood on March 09, 2008, 07:53:36 AM
that's the super sexy dark charcoal frame special !
Oh yes, yes it is! You're one lucky dude. Welcome to the club. :cheers: 96er's that is. :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: waltermax on March 09, 2008, 07:28:13 PM
Jared, the carb rebuild kits are all for 89-93 (K-P). Mine is a 96 T. There shouldn't be any difference, right?
Yep no difference.
cool, thanks as well, , good luck with your bike dude