Okay, so I know this topic has been discussed in past threads but I still don't have a definitive answer to my question, which is... Is it okay to remove the inner bearings of the wheel and then reinstall them for further use? I've read in previous posts that this shouldn't be done but in the Haynes Manual they do not say this. It is stated there that if removing bearings they should be inspected and if they are in good condition they can be re-greased and reinstalled.
Here's the context of my question. I bought a front wheel off e-bay a few months back and wanted to check the quality of the bearings before putting it on my bike.
My concern, derived from comments in previous threads I've been going through, is that by removing them I will actually damage them. The belief is because you have to use a bass drift on the inner race of the bearing to get them out, you damage them.
I don't feel confident judging their quality by the sound they give off as I turn them inside the wheel. When I do this, they give off an ever so 'slight' rubbing sound but it's hard to qualify that with any precise description. I don't think the sound is of bearings beyond their service life. Bearings that are in ill condition I think would sound louder and give off a grainier sound.
Basically, I think they are in satisfactory condition to just put the wheel on the bike but I would prefer to check and re-grease them first. But here is the Catch-22. If they're good and I try removing them, I risk damaging them. If I don't remove them and they are not in good a shape as I think they are, well, then, I'm driving on bad bearings, which down the line may not be the safest thing.
I have a feeling what many of you might say, that I should just buy new bearings to be safe, they're not that expensive, etc. What I really want to know though is if bearings really do get damaged beyond a safe threshold when removing them. Later all.
Btw, the front wheel came from a 2004 bike of unknown mileage.
Never reuse bearings that have to be driven out with a hammer.$20 is very cheap life insurance.
I hear you but why does the Haynes say that it's okay? They say to inspect them, re-grease them, and put them back in. Ultimately, I think you're right and I'll more than likely either leave in the pair already in the wheel or buy a couple new ones.
I'd still like to hear others' opinions though...
:cheers:
$20 ??? what Ben, you buying bearings made of gold ??? try $5 or under if you buy at the electric motor rebuilding place. Bike dealers like to make huge margins on sheite that they just slap a incoherent number on.
A 6303 bearing is a 6303 bearing anywhere in the world. Africa ... 6303 is a 6303. The dealer will slap a SUZ-GS-6FW-3Br-03 on it and charge you $20.
BTW someone better get off their ass and find me hydraulic seals in standard sizes. That may give you the over sized seals you need to keep old forks from leaking.
Cool.
Srinath.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit314?gclid=COmfiPv6iJICFQVexgodHxxraw
It's worth it to just replace them. Haynes probably says it's okay just because they don't work on freakin old stuff for their books. They get a vehicle/motorcycle that's in great shape and tear it apart for the book. I'm sure they don't have to remove years of grime/dirt/rust in order to remove anything. Stuff is different in the real world. Things get stuck. If you hit it with a hammer, it should be replaced...no matter what Haynes says.
Lewismug
O0
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on March 12, 2008, 06:24:01 PM
$20 ??? what Ben, you buying bearings made of gold ??? try $5 or under if you buy at the electric motor rebuilding place. Bike dealers like to make huge margins on sheite that they just slap a incoherent number on.
A 6303 bearing is a 6303 bearing anywhere in the world. Africa ... 6303 is a 6303. The dealer will slap a SUZ-GS-6FW-3Br-03 on it and charge you $20.
BTW someone better get off their ass and find me hydraulic seals in standard sizes. That may give you the over sized seals you need to keep old forks from leaking.
Cool.
Srinath.
What are the dimensions that need to be matched, I'll spend a couple hours googling if it helps. : )
Quote from: El motociclista on March 12, 2008, 06:05:36 PM
I hear you but why does the Haynes say that it's okay? They say to inspect them, re-grease them, and put them back in. Ultimately, I think you're right and I'll more than likely either leave in the pair already in the wheel or buy a couple new ones.
I'd still like to hear others' opinions though...
:cheers:
The bearings are sealed.At least the set I bought.So they can't be inspected or greased without damaging the bearing.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on March 12, 2008, 06:24:01 PM
$20 ??? what Ben, you buying bearings made of gold ??? try $5 or under if you buy at the electric motor rebuilding place. Bike dealers like to make huge margins on sheite that they just slap a incoherent number on.
A 6303 bearing is a 6303 bearing anywhere in the world. Africa ... 6303 is a 6303. The dealer will slap a SUZ-GS-6FW-3Br-03 on it and charge you $20.
BTW someone better get off their ass and find me hydraulic seals in standard sizes. That may give you the over sized seals you need to keep old forks from leaking.
Cool.
Srinath.
You would beeeeeeee correct.I was thinking $20 because the last set of 5 I bought was $20.
For those that dun't know there 2 bearings per wheel and 1 in the sprocket hub/carrier.That equates to 5.
That carrier bearing is $$$ my seca had a 63/22 in that hub, and try $25 for that at a generic bearing supplier. The yamaha part was $50+.
The yamaha T/S'es are really really $$$ too, and a couple years ago I figured out, GS t/s'es fit and look like they were made for it.
Cool.
Srinath.
Front wheel uses 2 of 6302 2RS (15x42x13)
Rear wheel uses 2 of 6303 2RS (17x47x14)
Hub out-rigger 1 of 6305 2RS (25x62x17)
QuoteThe bearings are sealed.At least the set I bought.So they can't be inspected or greased without damaging the bearing.
The stock bearings are sealed only on one side... Hey, how do you quote someone and then make it so that your own comments to the quote do not have the gray background??
After you quote,go to the bottom and then get the cursor out of all the quoted lines.
seems to me it would be easy enough to mount the wheel as-is, ride it, and see how it handles. If it's not in good shape, you should sense some odd handling, mushy steering, etc. If it feels good, the bearings are ok.
Quote from: ballyhoo on March 13, 2008, 11:08:53 AM
seems to me it would be easy enough to mount the wheel as-is, ride it, and see how it handles. If it's not in good shape, you should sense some odd handling, mushy steering, etc. If it feels good, the bearings are ok.
That was pretty much where I was at. I think this is the best course of action. I was talking to a friend last night who told me that bad bearings would become apparent before they became a serious safety issue. They wouldn't just all of a sudden fail and lock up the wheel. So, I'm just going to put the wheel in and see how it feels. Thanks ballyhoo and thanks to everyone for your advice. :cheers:
Quote from: ben2go on March 13, 2008, 10:52:41 AM
After you quote,go to the bottom and then get the cursor out of all the quoted lines.
Got it, thanks ben2go
Quote from: El motociclista on March 13, 2008, 12:06:00 PM
Quote from: ben2go on March 13, 2008, 10:52:41 AM
After you quote,go to the bottom and then get the cursor out of all the quoted lines.
Got it, thanks ben2go
You're welcome. :thumb: