I am about to start with a Kreem job for my mildly rusted tank. I have both 'Kreem Instructions' and 'Srinath Instructions' with me. Was about to start with the first step of etching away the rust using acid (Kreem Tank Prep A), but I see that these two instructions differ. Any experienced based suggestions on which one to follow?
K1) Kreem Instructions says to pour the acid in the tank...fill the tank with water...leave it overnight (4 hours for new tanks).
S1) Srinath Instructions says to pour the acid in the tank...shake shake shake... some more shake (4-6 mins) and decant.
K2) Kreem does not mention anything about baking soda.
S2) Srinath says to rinse with baking soda to get the acid out
K3) Kreem says to pour all of liner and decant excess
S3) Srinath says to use just 1/4 th (which makes sense instead of decanting)
Also whats the easiest way to make the plug for the top hole. Kreem says 'DONT' use Duct Tape, can I still use duct tape?
When I did mine I just used the acid, no water. Then I used the Kreem Acid remover/drying agent ( im guessing that baking soda is the same idea to neutralize the acid) but I would stick with what comes w/ the Kreem kit. :thumb:
Then I made a gasket for the petcock hole and nothing on the top then pured it in and swished for about an hour :icon_mrgreen:
baking soda does make sense, since I assume it is a base and should neutralize the acid.
so no one has used broken pecan hulls and a cement mixer to de rust their tank ? works wonders for deburring metal, just a though.
Ohgood:
Pressure pot blaster with 80 mesh silica and about a two foot extension made from bendable steel fuel line. :icon_mrgreen:
Kreem is slow cutting though, especially if it has already peeled. I tried MEK to strip it and made a huge gooey mess. Said to hell with it and cut a hole in the bottom. :laugh:
For the plug:
Go to your hardware store and pick up a cork! Yes, they make them that big. If they look at you funny, pick a better hardware store. :)
It doesn't matter how you do it because kreem sucks.
What are the alternatives to this product and process? Thanks in advance, JIM :)
POR15 is vastly superior.
Quote from: makenzie71 on March 16, 2008, 03:42:34 PM
POR15 is vastly superior.
Yeah What Mak said.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=CTRK&dept=11
Kreems so good! it almost gave me a high! :cookoo:
Quote from: makenzie71 on March 16, 2008, 03:13:14 PM
It doesn't matter how you do it because kreem sucks.
:thumb:
Kreem instructions are crap.
1. How do you hold in a tank full of fluid for 24 hours without a petcock - BTW that acid will eat the petcock. I ahve one eaten to prove it.
2. just water rinsing is not enough. The acid if it is there even in traces, in the crap pockets (the most obvious place for it to hide IMHO) and you coat over it, it will eat your tank under the coating.
Then finally if you have a smooth tank which will be the case if its well treated with acid, 1/4th of the Kreem mixed in with a pint+ of acetone will do plenty. Thicker coatings are impossible to get out if in the future you have to.
POR 15 is also impossible to remove, so I hate it.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on March 17, 2008, 06:14:56 AMPOR 15 is also impossible to remove...
:dunno_white: Isnt' that the point? :cookoo:
Quote from: makenzie71 on March 17, 2008, 04:52:42 PM
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on March 17, 2008, 06:14:56 AMPOR 15 is also impossible to remove...
:dunno_white: Isnt' that the point? :cookoo:
It should not come loose by itself. In rare circumstances it will ahve to be removed. Like, when I powderocated the tank, the Kreem burnt inside it. Its gotta come off, else I am screwed. Of course POR 15 can stand the 400 degree temp, but if you blow a hole a true hole in it like a split weld like in my vulcan mounting tab or somehting like that and have to weld it, that will burn the POR 15 also in that spot. Its not advisable to have a fully not removable liner in it at all.
Cool.
Srinath.